Husky

http://graphtv.kevinformatics.com/

Haha, I work in automotive control systems, so I deal with cars and lots of coding.

I had the same problem with my gearbox just with 5th/6th gears. I ended up getting a used box fitted. The swarf that came out my box was pretty horrific I'm told, it got scrapped as it wasn't even worth refurbing.

The reason it's gone is that Nissan designed the gearbox badly, specifically relating to the synchros. This is why they developed the automatic rev matching in the later cars, they played it off well as a "feature" but in reality it was to save premature wear on the synchromesh's. If this is your daily driver and you are going to be driving it until it's fixed then you need to change your driving style to cope with the lack of a working synchro in 3rd. Synchros are designed to bring the input shaft of the gearbox (layshaft) to the mathcing speed of the chosen gearset when engaging a gear. This is how it goes for a 2nd to 3rd gear shift: Car is in 2nd gear You decide to change gear to 3rd and push in the clutch The clutch disconnects the engine from the layshaft you shift into neutral disconnecting the layshaft from the 2nd gear gearset the layshaft begins decelarating as it is not being driven you begin to engage 3rd gear (the 3rd gear synchro engages, taking speed from the 3nd gear gearset and spinning up the layshaft) once the 3rd gear gearset and the layshaft are at a matched speed, the teeth mesh and the gear goes in. you release the clutch connecting the engine to the layshaft (the clutch allows the mismatched engine speed and layshaft speeds to come together by allowing an amount of slip). As you can see, there is a time that needs to be given for the synchro to spin up the layshaft (step 6). If you are too quick on this and force the change you are going to damage the synchro as it has to do it's job a lot faster/harder, increasing heat and resulting in premature wear. The 350z synchros are quite weak and so this happens easily. With this in mind you can understand how to drive with a broken synchro. You need to do the job of the synchro yourself, this means that you want the layshaft and specific gearset to be doing a matched speed when you push the lever into position. Just don't force the gear in or it'll make it worse, you should feel the point when it wants to drop in, keep it in that point and change gear. Here's the same change with no synchro: Car is in 2nd gear You decide to change gear to 3rd and push in the clutch The clutch disconnects the engine from the layshaft you shift into neutral disconnecting the layshaft from the 2nd gear gearset the layshaft begins decelarating as it is not being driven the engine decelerates to the appropriate rpm for 3rd gear While in neutral, you re-engage the clutch to slow the layshaft from 2nd gear speed to 3rd gear speed. With the layshaft now at the correct speed for 3rd gear you disengage clutch disconnecting the layshaft from the engine. You change to 3rd and with the layshaft and gearset at a matched speed, the teeth mesh and the gear goes in. you release the clutch connecting the engine to the layshaft. Sounds complicated but it's pretty simple. It can be simplified to: "Changing up: Release throttle as you depress the clutch as normal, with the throttle still at idle shift to neutral let the clutch up briefly with the throttle still at idle, this uses the engine to slow down the layshaft, then clutch down shift into new gear and clutch up and depress throttle as usual." Changing down is simplified to: "Changing down: A bit harder: Shift to neutral, let the clutch up and blip the throttle - how much is a bit of a knack but it feels good when you get it right, this gets the gears spinning at the higher speed needed for the low gear. Clutch down and shift to new gear as usual." Sorry I rambled on

Scratch x is an abrasive cleaner, this means it'll have taken every layer of wax and polish off of the car and taken a very fine layer of paint off. That's fine but you now have only the extremely thin layer of spray wax between the paint and the elements... Which IMO is not enough to protect it. If you are going to take all the paint protection off you need to know you are going to be able to get a fresh lot on before driving it again. I would say a nice polish (non abrasive) and then a wax such as the purple haze you have. It is quite likely that you'll need to clay bar it before you polish/wax now as the paint will have picked up lots of dirt without the protection it needs. I personally hate abrasive cleaners, they take paint away to even the surface level out and it's incredibly hard to do this evenly by hand. I prefer to build up my layers of polish and wax to fill the swirl marks up, evening the paint surface up. If it's really bad I'd give it to a detailer and ask them to machine polish it. I know it costs money, but then it's a pretty car that was obviously not going to be free to take care of

This is true, if they take a machine polisher to it, it'll end up looking great.

What I would say is that, if you eventually find it is on the inside of the headlight, it's bad news. The headlight plastic inside has a UV coating on it that if you rub will come off and it will look truly terrible. I'd advise against cleaning them on the inside.

You haven't lived until you've smelled I mean used the Swissvax restorer. Cost a fair penny for the tiny bottles though

Just randomly I was looking through the google image results for "350z" then I wondered, "is my car in here somewhere?". Sure enough, about 50 lines down there it was Although it was being used as a display piece for zunzport so not really recognisable haha. So, here's a massive image of the top 20 lines of google image results... it's about 150 pictures. Is anyone's car up there? click the pic for HUGE image

Sorry to hear

interesting, did not know about that.

If any one else is wanting some, I found a set inside my dining room wall yesterday when renovating the room. No idea how they got there

Sorry to hear they didn't last What do you mean by paint vapour? Unfortunately I'm not set up to do anything about them any more but I'm curious to know what went wrong. I take it they didn't leak after I worked on them?

Also with rims like this, on one side of the car they spin backwards.

Agreed on the weight aspect. I'd also look at which design is easy to look after, if you buy a set that have a very pronounced face then it's gonna be real easy to kerb the face of them If you buy ones with a lip it's a lot easier to get the kerbing refurbed out of them as that'll take the brunt of the damage. oh and don't go thinking "I won't kerb them" It happens to us all eventually and it makes you vomit everywhere in anger.

It's pretty hardy stuff I'd think, and on the plus side there's a really wide range of sparkly pinks you an choose from

What does it look like? can't you bodge it with nail varnish or alike?

I'm still alive Yes it's possible to link them up to the interior lights. There is a catch though, the dome light is activated directly through the BCM, with no fuse protecting it so not a circuit you want to screw up! The best bet is to change your dome light for LED's, thus freeing up the Amps you need to run... a relay! Hook the relay up to the dome lights wire (a pink wire that runs from the BCM, up the A-pillar passenger side to the dome lights from memory). The relay will switch a power you take from the 12v socket and run it to the doors. You need to drill through the door connectors (not the easiest task but the audio install guys do it for door speaker wire changes) and wire your new 12v feed through there. You then need to pop out the red reflectors and wire in some LED's in it. You're going to want to do it in such a way that it glows rather than having points of light in it, to this end you might think about having some kind of reflector behind it and shining the LED backward into that with the light diffusing and bouncing back out (tinfoil?). Ideally run the LED's from a voltage regulator! These cost pennies and you can generally find boxes on Ebay that regulate 12V & generally include reverse voltage protection and voltage smoothing to prevent premature component failure due to sketchy power supply (which cars have in abundance). Anyhow, you get the idea. The main points to take from this are: - Dont wire power directly from the dome lights - Do not short circuit the dome lights EVER, you'll lose your dome lights auto on off function permanently (thanks nissan for some terrible wiring). - Use LED's in your dome lights, it looks awesome and it reduces the existing current draw meaning your relay doesn't take the BCM feed over it's allowed Amps. - Include some voltage regulation circuitry for the LED's - Don't shine the LED'd directly through the reflector or it'll look cack. The good news is that once you have your relay switched 12V supply you are free to do what you want with it in relative safety. You are protected by the 12V socket fuse and are independent from the vehicles ECU's. You can now use that switched 12V supply to power puddle lights, door handle lights, footwell lights and whatever else your excited mind can come up with you want to happen when you unlock the vehicle. Enjoy, Husky

Cheers!

I did this in the end Thanks for the suggestions guys I'll get the wheels on Saturday and then hopefully get some ABS sensors sorted next week and then I'll be all sorted to unSORN the car. woot

Here is my problem. My car is SORN'd until I get new wheels on it. I have bought new wheels. Said wheels are in Essex, I am in Coventry. Everyone I know that could help me is either out of the country or their car is completely usless for transporting anything other than a toothpick. The seller is at work 7-5 during the week. I can't find a courier that'll pick up from him in the evening or weekend. Does anyone have any ideas of how I can get these wheels? Any couriers that can pick up on the weekend? I'm honestly getting to the point of renting a small hatchback for the day on saturday Cheers

There seems to be a user "GroverSt" that "likes" the first post of this thread over and over every day. been going for months. Not sure if something is broken or it's a spam bot of some sort?

lol, that's still in Alpha is it ?!? - blimey. played this for quite a bit in Alpha in January. basically completed the game as it stood at that time, sold and bought numerous prisons ending up with a ridiculous amount of cash.

A nice LS3 conversion to a 370z? Surely that's possible

Sounds like you need to step outside of Nissan tbh. I say look around the Supras, RX7's, etc and see if there's a fun, fast project that catches your eye.