AlexZ

Have you used them with no water in the tank, I know some motors required water to lube them during motor action if you get me... Alexz

Have you used them with no water in the tank, I know some motors required water to lube them during motor action if you get me... Alexz

Looks very nice matie, I love that colour.... Keep it perfect... Alexz

Thanks guys...I'll keep it updated as I go...lol..

Evening Stew, your right....I learnt today that the two front plugs are prone for this because there starved of air due to the plenum depth... What I dont understand is why? After doing a little reading tonight theres companies out there that have sorted this problem offering around 11bhp increase and all the stock engine parts fitting back fine...? Whats your thouths mate? Alexz

Hi, if you've put the motors direct to the battery and they dont work then I would say its the motors mate.. The headlamp washer may have another tank and motor but filled from the same top up neck if you get me... Alexz

Well its been a week since I lubed the anti roll bar drop links and all is well... Today I got the car into work for some wax oil fun before the winter weather comes. With it been a little damp outside I blow all the loose water from the panels with the air line before waxing. I was suprised to see some good undersealing on the car already from factory... I covered every bit of metal I could see, thought its best to do everything than miss bit and wish I did them later... With the wax oil all sorted I headed home to check the plugs...I removed all six one at a time and found two of them a little white in colour...From what I've read this means running lean.. I can only guess the injectors are a little blocked or have dirt in them. I plan to run some Redex through tomorrow and see if that helps. These were the only plugs that required re-gapping aswell With the plugs looking better and back in I whipped the air filter out just to be noise....I found to my suprise a K&N filter...Does anyone else have one..It didnt seem to have any oil on it..I know on my old cause it wasnt oil because this clogged the MAF sensor..Any ideas? To say it was dry there wasnt that much dirt in it so i'm guessing its newish.. Finally late after noon I got to carry on with the clay bar. I got the tailgate done but thats it. It still need some polish but at least its smooth. Alexz

Now then matie...as Husky said it removes the tar, road film etc from the paint...I use Mag's clay bar but there are other compaines i.e Sonus etc that make it also...I always use this before getting the pc on the job to remove any swirls etc for washing the car. If you pop to halfard or motor shop you will find it old boy... Alexz

Now then mate...I'm guessing there just two connection on each of the motors...? If this is right then just put one of the terminals to the posi on the battery and the other to the neg on the battery. This will prove the motor without taking the other car apart if you get me. Alexz

Think thats what Sarni said!! In answer to your sig question Alex, thats pretty normal MPG around town.. Guess you knew that before you bought a 3.5!! Get it mapped with so you can have urban maps that will give you a bit more economy! Sorry to change the subject on your thread dude... Normal mpg seem to be a little higher from what ive been told from most members... I dont want to remap the car...Sounds like most people use higher octain fuel and iridium plugs to gain better mpg.. I'll use the above and see what happens. Thanks Alexz

I'm not 100% sure and i'm pritty new to all this Z stuff but I was under the impression the later models with 313bhp required the BUMP cause the engine was different and the normal bonnet wouldnt fit? Surely if this is the cause it cant be 313bhp with the old style bonnet? Alexz

You will be fine dude... This is my first rwd car and i'm still alive although its only been two weeks. lol Alexz

Haha, I posted it twice because i'm important..... I guess there still the O.E plugs....Iridium plugs are ment to burn more effecient then standard. I'll whip mine out at weekend and check the gapping... Thanks for the info dude. Alexz

Looks like Denso is the first choice...I normally use NGK Iridium....but I will select Denso when the time comes.

Good luck mate , as above dont rush and buy the first one. Keep ths scooter cause the fuel costs a lot. I've owned mine for 2 weeks now and it costs just to get to work haha...Going to work and local running around i'm getting 19-23mpg...the 23 is with cruise control on..I dont drive it hard, normally change about 2000rpm... With all said above I love it and wouldnt change it back to my Celica. Just take your time, look for repairs in the panels, listen for the rear cv joints and check the clutch...Check the oil level before they start it up etc... If there genuine panels there should be little chassis sticker on each of the bolt on panels...This should show they havent been swapped from facorty or because of a crash. Alexz

Well done matie, you will enjoy it 100%... Nice move with the fuel, cost me £72 to fill up before I even got mine home lol...

Good advise people, I need to treat my skin to some tlc aswell.

Evening matie, yeh the one speak thing is normal... You soon get use to that.. Not sure on the 123456789 dailing ...If you got the Nissan handbook theres some details in that for setting it all up etc. This may help man.

Your torque settings are below mate Alexz

As above, i'm new to the hole rwd thing and I keep mine on all the time. I did turn it off in the wet on the first day I picked her up. I wheel span from the middle of the intersection onto my estate, into seconds gear past the Fire Station Headquarters then wanted my mum and some toilet roll. The switch have never been touched again. Alexz

Unless your 100% on the softtop version I would test drive the couple. Again I think you'll get a newer UK GT spec for the cash that dealer wants. You choice at the end of the day, all the Z's are ace mate...Just buy the best you can and if your not 100% sure you can always get a RAC or AA inspection for peace of mind. Alexz

Ive just bought a 04 plate 350 GT. This had a new clutch fitted (I have the Nissan paperwork) in April and my clutch pedal is high. I'm sure I have read somewere they auto adjust so I would imagine the pedal height has always been that high. If you fancy that car get one an open road put it in 6th, round 35mph and roll on. If the clutch is going to slip it will be under all that torque.. Hamster one here as a 54plate GT just like mine...my exhaust seems to be a bit louder than his...Not sure why...maybe age or just a different supplier to Nissan at that time. I agree with above, go for the one you feel most happy with there all mint cars apart from filling it up every week Alexz

Can't find the torque setting on the information I have here, I may have it on Autodata at work. I'll keep you posted dude. Alexz

As Sunset said I would get the correct torque setting and maybe use temporary locktight. You can buy it online..It keeps the bolt solid but will be eaiser to remove if you ever have to...Goolge it dude... I'll have a quick look for the torque settings for you. Alexz

Dont think theres an actual place mate, mine was in the ash tray when I bought my car