AlexZ

Thanks for the comments dude.... I used some really fine wet & dry first to remove the built up soot, the Autosol to finish them off... took a little while but well worth it if you ask me...

Haha, thanks for the support mate, should be more to come soon

Thanks little man, you know where I am when you want you box oil changing.

Very nice matie, good choice....

I also use the Denso Iridium ones from Opie.... Alexz

In the olden days you could just repair the vehicle and put it back on the road. I think for the last 5 years or so you have to take the vehicle to a registered inspection garage before its put back on the road. I've worked at a accident repair centre for the last 10+ years and to write the car off when its worth 10k+ it must have been a good impact. I guess you know what Cat D means if you've bought the car but your looking around 60% off the vehicles value when the accident happed... I'm sure DVLA would be able to point you to your nearest test centre if you rang them man... Alexz

To be honest mate for what they cost I would replace them now. If funds are sort at the moment I would take them out again, clean them with brake cleaner, check all the gaps and refit them. Maybe check them again after a few hundered miles. Also might be worth running some Redex or injector cleaner through your system... Alexz

Hi mate, they feel better then what I had with out a worry...I havent used them hard yet aparts from the bedding in process but alls looking good upto now... I just need to change the brake fluid now and she should be rocking... I've attached my thread if you need anymore info mate viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29312&p=495935#p495935 Thanks Alex

Hi all, when I changed the oils last week I noticed the front brake pads ware a little worse for wear. On Saturday morning I used the ram at work again and sorted them...This is the first time I’ve done Brembo brakes and it wasn’t bad at all. I took a few Images along the way because I couldn’t find many when I searched the forum before I started... Remove the front wheel. (21mm Socket and a torque setting of 108Nm, I wrap the socket in masking tape to save it from marking the alloy inside the nut holes). Removing the pads Locate the securing K pins on the pads retainer pins... With the K pins removed, get a punch or correct size item and remove the lower pad retainer pin..The anti vibration spring will flick out so go careful... Now open the bonnet and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap, this will aid when you push the pistons back. Ok, your caliper should now have now parts other than the pads left in it...I used a screw driver to push the pads back a little then leaved the pads out...remember there may be a lip round the edge of the disk and you have to get the pads over this.. Removing the Brembo caliper. With the pads out the caliper, the disk should be lose on the hub...Just whip the two rear 22mm bolts out to remove the caliper. (torque 152Nm) I also removed the brake line bracket bolts to make hanging the calliper easier...two 12mm bolts.. Preparing the disk for the new pads... If the disks are older you may find a little corrosion and a lip round the outer rim edge. Best thing to do when replacing the pads is make the disk as smooth and new as possible. I removed the lip with a hammer first, then smoothed the rest out with a grinder. Once the lose rust and lip has been removed I used the air line to blow out all the vented slots through the disk...once happy with the main disk I used some course sand paper to deglaze the disk face, this gives the pad a new face to mate with. Once your happy with all the prep work get some brake cleaner and clean all metal surfaces. With the disk ready for action I sorted the caliper for the new pads. First I cleaned the metal slides the pads make contact with. I just wiped them with a rag and brake cleaner until no more dirt would come off. I also pushed the four pistons back enough to get the new thick pads in. I used a spanner head over each piston while holding the other 3 with my spare fingers. Rebuild. I put a little copper grease round the inside of the disk bore to make it easier next time they have to come off... Then slip the disk back onto the hub. I then borrowed the anti squeal shims from the O.E pads and swapped them over to the new pads. I used a little copper grease where each piston would meet the pads and where the pad meets the caliper. If you put a couple of dots of grease on the shim this will hold the shim to the pad while you get them back in the caliper. Some people use a little sand paper on the new friction material on the pads. I did this but some people don’t bother...each to their own if you ask me. Once the pads are back in, just rebuild the caliper as you took it apart making sure all the bits have a home and all the torque setting are correct... Job Done. I then used the following process to bed the new pads into the deglazed disk and everything is coolio...Break bleed in the near future.... (Thanks ZMAN) viewtopic.php?f=35&t=19501 This isn’t a guide, just how I did mind... With the brakes been in for a couple of day they feel good. I haven’t really used them hard yet but the overall feel is fine... Thanks Alex

Good call mate, thats what I've done even though the car has full service history... I know everything is new and fresh now..

I replaced my pads today with some Mintex ones from a local supplier to my work. Ive done about 40 miles upto now and tey already feel bettet than my old ones. This may also be down to me cleaning and regreasing the pad contact faces....The Mintex pads were £26.50 baragin. Alex

Glad your ok mate, this is the first rwd car i've owned and it does slip and step alot even in light rain etc... Get some images up...

If you go to any good garage they should have a battery load tester and that will tell you if its the battery. They test it while the car is running etc and it's normally free.....save you buying a battery if its on that Alex

Normally you get a liter between the lowest point and max point on the dip stick...Just top it up, wait for the oil to run to the sump then try dipping it again....5/30 or 5/40 fully syn will be cool mate..

I'm not a mechanic mate, just know a little about a little ...I estimate accident damage on crashed vehicles. I have serviced and maintained all my own vehicles (and friends) for the last 13 years though... Thanks for the nice comments Alex

Ok these are the images of the pads...I'll get them fitted at weekend and let you know how they go.... Alex

Very fair comment mate, I do understand that...I've ordered the Mintex anyway so I'll give them a bash...Worst that can happen is I have to buy another set lol... have you got a link to where you are getting the mintex pads? Sorry mate there just a local company in Hull. Mintex is a massive brake company and i'm sure you'll have a supplier in your area. I've received them today and they look pritty cool. The box states 350Z on the size so all should be good. I'll be fitting them at weekend. Reading some more info on Mintex today and they've been on the go over 100 years so I guess they can't be to bad. Alexz

Now then mate, I have looked into them but at this moment I'm happy with her...Although I do need some more brake pads lol. The garage is were I work so I can use it most weekends...Just a shame were only open for 4hours lol... but it great when it's my Sat morning on cause 4 hours is to much lol. get some yellow stuff pads from cs they feel good enough if you don't do to much inspired driving. To be honest mate I ordered the Mintex pads today, if there no good I'll order some others of the forum's advise. If there ok I guess there'll be plenty of member's wanting good pads at these prices. I dont mind been the test dummy lol.. Alexz

I had this issue aswell mate, I took mine to a friend who just plugged it in and reset it... The air bag wires are normally orange...just peep under the seat and you will see them... good luck.

Very fair comment mate, I do understand that...I've ordered the Mintex anyway so I'll give them a bash...Worst that can happen is I have to buy another set lol...

Hi mate, I've looked on Envy's website and there's are a fair few to choose from . I have searched on here and most people head for the Ferodo DS2500... I was happy with the standard brakes but thought might aswell have a look while I need them. With my Nissan discount I can get genuine ones for £67inc vat. I have no plans to race the car (although I'm going over to Nurburg in the summer) so I dont really need anything to flash and the car is standard. I've used Mintex for years now on all different cars and never had a issue, plus there one of the largest brake manufactures in the world. If they dont turn out very good I could still get the standard or one of the above you mentioned. I understand it would cost a little more over all but if the Mintex turn out fine they'll be the perfect buy for any other Z owner just looking for a quality pad at a nice price. Alexz

Ok guys this may have be mentioned before but I've been looking for some new pads today for the Z. I spoke to Nissan and theres retialed at £87+vat...I checked out Opie and there Brembo's were good at £108 delivered with discount...I spoke to our local Mintex dealer in the town and they said £26.50... I asked for the part number "MDB2341" to check the Mintex website myself and he was correct. These pads also fit the later Primera lol...I've used Mintex in all my car and never had a problem. At the cost of these pad I can't afford to not try them...What do you guys think? Did anyone else know there Primera pads? Does anyone have a image of a front pad? Alexz

Thanks dude

No worries pal...were on here to help each other... front brake pads next....I'll keep the thread going..

Now then mate, I have looked into them but at this moment I'm happy with her...Although I do need some more brake pads lol. The garage is were I work so I can use it most weekends...Just a shame were only open for 4hours lol... but it great when it's my Sat morning on cause 4 hours is to much lol.