AlexZ

Defo mate, the main reason I post the stuff ive done myself Many heads make easy work and all that bolloks.

Good thinking batman or maybe a wrap around bracket that wraps around the hole bumper carrier... Alex

my bodyshop is one of the best in the country. i think they won bodyshop of the year in 2008, trust them and their work implicitly. they are BMW approved which bit do you mean by front bumper carrier, are you referring to the aluminium crash beam across the front. then its fine, it will be way within its impact strength, especially as its design to deform and not sheer. its izod and charpy factors won't be affected by those two 3 mm bolts. and thats as an BSc engineer who specialised in material science if your referring to the other area its mounted to, thats not structural Evening dude, yeh I was reffering the the alloy bar, we call that the bumper carrier in the trade... Were also approved by some major manufacture like, VW, Audi, Skoda, Seat, Mazda, Ford, Merc, Proton etc... There a company called Thatcham (http://www.thatcham.org/research/index.jsp?page=34) who research vehicles and accidents. Every new car released is crash tested at the Thatcham research centre (very impressive place, been there a couple of times), then there engineers decide were's best to cut the damaged panels out to return the vehicle back to there original structual strenght. These are the people who decided what times are given to the repair centre etc to replace all body parts and how best to go about repairing a damaged vehicle. Every vehicle we get in for repair we have to request certain information (repair methodology) like torque setting etc. We have to request this info on safety releated item i.e the bumper carrier, windscreen etc etc. If we refit any safety related item without this info we could lose our British Standard certification. I would have thought if the torque settings made a difference to an accident two holes in the only structual part of the front end would, "not including the chassis legs". I'm not looking to pick faults, just wanted you to know that this may have affected the strenght of that designed part now it has holes in it. Were instructed to replace these items even if there dented, let alone craked or snapped or holey lol. Alex

Looks like a very nice job mate, I work in a bodyshop aswell. Not sure if you should have drilled the front bumper carrier. This is pritty important in a front impact accident. They design the carrier to take the man impact at the front with the front panel be plastic. Now you have drilled the carrier you have changed the structual design for the carrier...I hope it work aswell as it should if you need it in the furture lol.. Not sure if the body shop you use is BSI PAS/125, if they are they shouldnt be drilling bumper carriers lol.. Regards Alex

Mate there really easy to replace. If its the complete mirror just do the following... Remove the padded arm rest behind the window controls etc by pulling it up... Remove the rubber cap in the door control panel handle, then remove the Philips screw. lift the hole control panel up after releaseing the clip on the end were you have removed the padded arm rest. Remove the two big screws you will now be able to see, under the control panel. Pull the inside door lever to the open postion and flip the plastic cap out where the little rubber circle is. Remove the Philips screw. You should be able to pull the door trim now and it will release from the door. Unclip boh the cables attached to the inner handle. Tada, door card off... Undo the three 10mm nuts and the plug located below the mirror and remove the mirror. This is the same for the passanger side, the only differece is you have to remove the Silver inserti in the door handle with a screw drive to find the two screw. Hope this helps. Alex

I'll have a bash if you pay for damages to the bike and car lol... lol

Evening mate, I replaced my front pads with Mintex ones not to long ago....They cost me £26 for the front set and they work just as well are the ones removed...They do give a little more brake dust off than the ones but I clean the car at least onces a week so no bother there. If you check the guide section out theres a proper bedding in thread kicking around. Alex

Very nice mate, well done..

Well done mate, looks very nice from the images, Job done good.

Dude it easy lol Just whip the wheels off, put the drivers seat in the forward most position and slide the bike in through the drivers door and under the rear brace. Winners Alex

Welcome mate, I've owned my car for about 6 months...all the Z's I looked at had rust of some sort on the lower braces your talking about. I got my car in at work and waxoiled the hole underside.... Alexz

Evening mate, ive owned my car about 6 months lol Ive had all the bad weather and not much sun. I found turning the esp off and going really carefull with the throttle the best option. This is my first rear wheel driver car and it was a nightmare but touch wood I got through it and I used the car everyday no matter how deep the snow was The best option would be thinner wheels and tyres Alex

Haha he rock's

haha, thats pricless mate, cant understand why people havent done this mod before when its been out so long....I'm glad my thread is helping people and I plan to keep updating it... people have been doing it, R35lee has been doing them for people for a fair while and sparky350z wrote it up the day before you Evening dude, I know people have been playing with this a little while.... Like Pimm and other have said I think attension to detail have given most people the chance to complete the operation themself. I'm just glad people can do it them self for the 15mins is took me to write it up...

Glad I can help Pimm's.....if we all learn a little of each other it's great... Alex

Do you still have both the plastic plungers on the tailgate that lift it up when you press the tailgate catch? You should have one on each side? Looks to me like the rear panel trim is just held on with two clips in the middle of the panel and a line off metal clips across the top if you follow me...

haha, thats pricless mate, cant understand why people havent done this mod before when its been out so long....I'm glad my thread is helping people and I plan to keep updating it... I need to get the Porta Cable out and remove some of the paint swirls...

haha, that could be classed as silly not skill lol... Think we need to stop the thread hi jack now lol

i had a similar breaker bar, even gave them a wire brush before doing it and they rounded inside the socket just made of butter Haha, you lack the skill young man, plus I think I have a couple of inches in bicep size on you lol...

Shame Pimm, I just whipped mine off with a 2ft braker bar and impact socket lol...You just need some muscle lol...

Cheers mate, just trying to keep ontop of things

Very nice mate, pleasure to help

No worries dude, glad your up and running. Good work...

Welcome mate, Ive just filled up tonight with V-Power at £1.25.9 per liter. It cost me £76 to fill and will last about 300miles around town at 19-22mpg. Mate, you dont worry about the fuel to much when she drives like she does....GET ONE BOUGHT Alexz

All my devices are small usb so what Ive do in my car is perfect for me..I didnt really think to much about all the other phones etc I guess for £4 its worth buy and taking apart lol, what the worse that can happen