wood glue

Took me a while but look at the "inner side" notation on the tyre

Yes you can - this has been asked several times before - see this thread: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=17990&hilit=unlocking+doors I guess it's just mine then, I've tried many times, exactly 5 seconds, exactly 6, 7, longer, 30 seconds even!. Maybe I've got a dodgy fob or something :|

You won't actually be able to reprogram your fob to open both doors, at least I can't on my 54 plate. I believe it's an 06+ and JDM feature.

Are there places to buy fully function steering wheels? I don't particularly like the size and feel of my GT wheel but I wouldn't want to lose cruise control by replacing it.

My battery recently went flat and my door locking mechanism is buggered so I had to get a locksmith out to unlock it. If the electrics are working they'll be able to get in pretty easily, I won't detail how for obvious reasons but still, call a good locksmith.

How many clicks of the key do I need to give it to make it live, I'd check myself but the whole reason for this in the first place is a very dead battery!

I just bought one of the 12v to 12v battery chargers from halfords, it says the socket into the car with the dead battery needs to be live, is it live by default in the 350 or do I need to rotate the ignition a stop or two?

I've been middle fingered twice and double fingered once, all for overtaking in completely safe and legal places. Twice by people who thought it absolutely fine to go 40 in the 30 we'd just exited but woe betide me to go anywhere near 60 when we exit onto a NSL road. Extending my arm out the window and giving them the finger back is always fun though.

To clarify he meant enough power so that the remote would open the doors rather than the mechanism physically in the door needing power. They were generally at a loss as to why it'd happen in the first place, it certainly wasn't something they were previously aware of as being a issue.

I've finally had some time to phone around and try to deal with this. My local Nissan place suggested jacking it up and connecting a charger/power pack to the starter motor to give it enough power to unlock the doors from the keyfob. Does this sound reasonable? Or something a complete car novice could do without breaking something/himself?

I'm totally out of ideas, the key turns freely in the door, just nothing happens. If it were the wrong key/barrel would it even turn when i put it in? If it is the case that the barrel has been replaced is there any way for me to get a working key or every time the battery goes am I totally screwed? Also the AA is a good idea, if it wasn't stuck at home and they didn't want £80 to include homestart in my policy and come out

I've just got back from a week in the lakes with my second car (don't ask why I'd take a 1.4 mkV Golf to amazing roads rather than my 350) and my 350z appears to be completely dead. It won't unlock from the keyfob remotely so I obviously put the key in the door, which again did nothing, I tried my spare fob and eventually the master and nothing. This is going to sound stupid but am I turning the key wrong.. or something? I assume the battery is flat which is fine, I'll jump it or get a new one but how exactly do I get in the engine bay without getting inside the car? :| Please help and make me feel like an idiot

On your heads be it, I shall give it a proper yank ta!

So am I right in thinking with just a little purchase on the back of the panel next to the windscreen using my fingers I should be able to just slide it towards me a few inches without much pressure? Very odd, I wonder if it's catching on something it's not meant to be.

I did get all the screws including the ones inside the cubby under the rubber mat. I did in the end start lifting it from below and it seemed to be just hinging where the very top meets the rest of the dash as if it were still resolutely caught on something. I'm hugely paranoid of pushing too far/hard and snapping a clip somewhere. It's not coming away from the dash at all at the very top so I'm not in any danger of snapping the connector, I can't even see the bloody thing :|

I followed the standard guide: http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/dash_removal/ I get to step 11 and attempt to "Grasp the top of the console with your finger tips, and gently pull towards you." It most certainly doesn't "Just snap out" I tugged on it as hard as I could before feeling like I was going to break something. It felt like there were additional clips to loosen but I didn't want to start digging around with a flat blade without knowing what I was aiming for. Help :|

I have a photo of 60mpg but that was obviously coasting down a hill On a regular tank of fuel I get.. wait for it.. 16-17mpg. I can thank a stop start, 5mph max, 3 mile crawl to work and back for that one, and that's with it being averaged up with some country road runs. If I reset the gauge before i drive to work i get 14mpg max by the time I'm there.

The grass is always greener, if you think Australia is the path to political progress and honesty you might want to do some reading about what they or any other nations politics is really like. Nothing is going to reduce the price of internal combustion engine motoring in this country, by any significant amount, ever. It's an unquestionable fact that the stuff we use to run our cars is running out, rightly or wrongly, priced for economic, social or environmental reasons it isn't going to get any cheaper. You can rage at the oil producers, the politicians or the green lobby but it's not going to make any difference. You either drive a 1.2 diesel and use your car purely for transport or you suck it up and pay whatever it costs at that moment in time and drive the **** out of your 3.5 litre, completely unnecessary car. My 350z is my entertainment, it's my luxury and I pay the price for that.

Good site I used that a while ago to find out my 13mpg, 3 mile crawl to work was STILL cheaper than taking the bus. (don't bring up running costs other than petrol, they don't count )

I haven't gotten any rattles but I do have a pretty annoying seat squeek that's developed. I assume it's my fat arse that's caused it over the first 3000 miles of my ownership. The weird thing is is that I can't make the squeek happen by waggling my arse around or bouncing up and down, it only happens when driving. Is there something I can lube that's most likely to be doing it? (don't say my arse)

I see people mentioning the FM adpters but I've tried a few and without fail have been completely shitty, they either fuzz out after a few minutes or I can never get a clear signal in the first place. Do you live in an place without many FM stations? It's hardly like London where I live (ie every .5 there's something pirate or otherwise) but it's still pretty bad. Let alone going any sort of distance without it phasing out when a new station comes into zone. I think it annoys me so much just because they seem like a really good idea and I feel like I'm missing something when they work so badly for me

Ta for moving it. And the windows are moving up and down fine, I wouldn't notice any problem if everyone closed my doors as carefully as I did it's just the hamfisted friends that'll give it a good swing into the body that causes a horrible clank that doesn't sound quite right.

Let me be specific, if people aren't particularly careful in closing my doors they make a horrible clanking smack noise, I don't think there's anything wrong with it I just think they're heavy doors and people let them go pretty easily but I was wondering if there's anything I can do to dampen or soften the impact? I noticed in the upper corner of the door there's a flap of plastic that almost looks like that's it's job (softening) but I'm a little clueless so maybe not. Any ideas or things other people have done?

The world is against me in this respect, as soon as I drove from the dealers the heavens opened and we had the biggest rain fall since summer began. Course there's not much of an excuse for the kilogram of dead insects on the front but that's the 200 miles of random weekend driving's fault

I've been mostly lurking since May but last week I finally did it and picked up an immaculate 54 gunmetal with 16k on the clock.. and at the weekend I finally took some pictures! I am wondering if the noise or the acceleration will ever get old but I can't see how.