GT4 Zed

Its proven to work on other JDM cars so i would think it would work on the zed. There are 9 CAN & OBD II protocols and it supports all these

I have a pair of burger badges for sale and can get my bodyshop paint it gloss or satin black tomoro for Monday or Tueday delivery PM me or look at my sale thread for pics of what i have done with my z badge as example.

I have recommended this before because i have heard some good things about it. so many features and protocols I was going to pick up one and have JDM guys try it on JDM in Wales or other meets but there so much i have to deal with now so its not priority Autel maxiscan MS509 Price range from 50-100 quids depending where you get it from info: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Autel-MaxiScan-MS ... 45eb74244c

GM is lovely but a dime a dozen but most importantly its a ZED

That was quick mate. Good job Finished pics will be nice

I always admire the people who have the creativity, time and money to do these chops I have plans someday do a take on the BMW M coupe or build and ultima GTR kit car. - Just imagine grafting the new Z4M wide body CF kit to the M coupe with swapping the lights for the modern Z4 items will maintaining the M coupe lines and character - Throw in Spartan racecar interior treatment with CF, suede, full roll-cage and race seats. - Add a full track suspension and BBK and finally throw in the old M5 400BHP engine retuned to 500BHP just imagine: + I wish i was any good a photoshopping/chopping

Hey pup, don't be a tight ass b--t--d and get a BBK rather than mess about with some adaptor etc. would be cheaper in the long run But then again unless you want the big disc look and of very good pads will improve your brembos

keep up the good work chap The rewards are worth it

Black will always be beautiful even in sunset

Well done Si I like the very light grip on the steering wheel.................you must have been relaxed by then. Hope no probs and no rubbing either

If you are here it means you've already made the choice. The right one i must say! if you start looking out you should get a good one intime for our Wales pilgrimage There are a few for sale in the forum and will always make asafe buy. If you are adventurous you should go for AdrainK's car and if is a bit hard core you can take off the upgraded bits which you will easily sell and replace the standard parts You will get help from lots in here to do any swaps for free

I likey Please post up pics when installed if you do find a solution Where did you get them from? Ebay?

Its a shame you have to sell your beautifully specced zed GLWTS and success at the house purchase. Hope you come back or don't need to sell afterall

Its the big day Simon you will have fun! Lots of good advice above but a few things to add: The Track - Find out the noise limit and check your zed before to avoid embarasment. If you have a the right phone you can download a free decibelometer/sound level web app and check before hand. They are reasonably accurate but i think your car will be fine - Learn the outlay of the track on youtube etc - If there is an instructor at hand it will be money well spent usually £20-£50 for 15-30mins instruction you will learn far more from then than you will by just driving around all day on your own. Preparation - Assuming the car was recently serviced and i know is in good condition there should be no major problems with using it on track. - Make sure all levels are topped up to the max. Check your oil levels a couple of times during the day. take a spare bottle(2l) just in case - BTW always use the same grade/type of oil if possible -brand is not too important - Tyre pressures: There are so many views but i will always say start at the recomended 35 psi and increase or decrease presures as you feel for grip (see below if you can't work out what is required)!!! Running the pressures too low could damage the sidewalls as they flex during sustained cornering, As you run anyway they will heat up on track and presure will rise so starting them too high will increase wear and loose you contact patch. (I have one of these cigarette lighter operated air pumps which is a good investment ) - An easy visual way to check if you have the right presures is to do a few laps to get the tyres up to temp, then look carefully at the scuffing on the tread of the tyres. If the scuffing does not extend up to the edge of the tread then you need to lower the pressure by a couple of psi(2psi increments or decrease should suffice ) and if the scuffing extends onto the sidewalls then the tyres are too soft and require some more air. - Remove all loose objects that might fly around - Get a helmet even if its not compulsory and good fitting thin soled "driving" shoes or trainers and light sun shades Insurance - Thats up to you but there are some companies that off trackday covers Track day - Arrive with time to spare and sign on early and familiarise yourself with the place. - Read any literature from the organisers covering, rules and regulations, etiquette, flags etc plus any pointers from the briefing and memorise these! - The biggest rule is overtaking and is almost always allowed on the left-hand side in the UK and only on the straights and never in the braking zones (If there are exceptions they will tell you - Always pay attention to marshals and flags. - If you feel the brake pedal go ‘long’ on track then its time to come straight in after a cool down lap. They should be fine once cool. - keep the bonnet open in the pit lane to help dissipate heat - Full tank of fuel is a weight you don't need if usually do 1/4 or 1/2 full depending on my planned laps or distance to a station. It is always a useful brake or cool down drive - I have no spare wheel in my zed and just rely on the foam. You can shed some weight by leaving yours securely at the pits Take a small tool kit too. - Drive smoothly and brakes efficiently (donot lean on the brakes ) and there won’t be a huge increase in wear but you should ensure the legal thread depth left on the tyres as you will be driving back home. Rossers TC - It does interfere sometimes but not if you are smooth and braking on a straight line and carrying the right speed into each corner, using weight transfer to turn in etc so i would say leave it on and as you get more comfortable then proceed o turn it off Addictive - Finally its fun so relax and enjoy - Be warned, though, track driving is very addictive and once you’ve tried it, it’s hard not to want more.......................Nurburgring next

Welcome back ol' chap what would sir be looking at in the classified .......................a zed

That chioce is yours mate but i doubt it make much alot difference But if you must then i can recommend HKS that i have used for sometime but i never compared it with the OEM paper filter but i believe it will be the same power output plus the guarantee that the paper filters efficiently as expected from the manufacturer. The restriction is with the air intake system(ie the pick up area , air box, MAF housing, tubing and TB) and not the filter which makes little restriction as you may led to believe. So called high flow filter will be limited by these factory intake design restriction and also filter less (In order to flow more as claimed because flow is proportional to filtration ) which is not good for you engine! Another option is a good CAI will only brings marginal gains 3-5hp rather than the 15-20 quoted but their "high flow" cone filter could also allow more dirt in too or even ingest water. The only mod that is safe is the factory air box and OEM paper filter or a 2006 airbox with OEM filter as this is better designed than the earlier ones and Mark @ Abbey has been saying this for ages Other improvement lie with removing restrictions in the plenum with use of a plenum spacer and or MREV2 lower collector but you have to look at bang for bucks and decide for yourself.

After a bit of a search i found this interesting read http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/intake.htm These links below are just a few within the main article: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/in ... 0tests.htm http://autospeed.com/A_111486/cms/article.html The summary in most of these articles is that don't bother to change the factory setup. Most aftermarket filters do more harm to you engine and donot out perform the OEM paper filter. They claim to flow more which means they filter less and the primary function of the filter is to filter as the real restriction is with the intake design. This design is limited by many considerations from the manifacturer and if you can improve it this is where the gains are

shall have to go out for blast matey as my car will be on the road for the weekend Don't be a looney when you are out here Actually come and pick me up so i could be your wing man I know some nice roads to bed those babies in

fackuff

How rude of them

So so so sorry milady

Is that true? i looked for these a while back and settled for HKS. I have to say Apexi looks well engineered. where can i get this for next time? How long you reckon a change then? At £30ish a pop its not worth keeping any longer They way i see it is, if you bought a good CAI eg £270. you will need to change the panel filter 9x(4.5 years @6monthly changes or 9 years yearly) to have spent the same money Leave the burnouts to rest

I'll have those off you if Wookie does not need a replacement anymore