GT4 Zed

The patient dog................ comes to mind

Looking good Ian as usual with the engine bay but you really need to tidy up the center console ..................looks shabby, the absence of the cubby door, the ill-fitting double din unit below Surely you can do better with the placement of the Defi link unit

Stop kidding around Ian

Not often I say this, but I agree with Bennett I wanted (want) Tomei ones but I'm happy with my DCs. I only fitted them because I got them for a stupid price Thank you so much your higness Does that mean i will have exclusive driving review of your beast in Wales

Glad to help mate. But as mentioned before do changes one at a time and address one axle at a time eg 4psi all round is not as informative as 4 psi in front then after full testing the maybe increase further or increase or decrease at the rear. You have to know or be able to describe what you are experienceing and want to improve or remove in terms of handling characteristics This might help: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_handling http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_setup

Also depends which one you are buying as some cheapo ones will not have the inside welds smooth which will affect the flow and cost you ponies Or might not be true equal lenght . Or they might crack costing you labour twice I think Nismo, Tomei, fujitsubo etc are the ones i would look at if money was no object and going for big power NA or SC!

Just read your post mate. The noise is from the rack and has been covered here before by someone i have had this for ages and its worse with my hard suspension setup Steering rack pre-load adjustment: There is a nut that holds the rack together and its called an "end cover assembly" its under the boot and its torque-spec is actually a range - 58.9 - 73.5nm; you need to increase the torque until the clicking goes away, and the play is taken out As with regards to the steering response there are a few things you can do to improve it. -First you can increase the presure by 3-5 psi and see the response/feel you get. -Next you can start by setting the front Toe settings to neutral(0°00') and dial in more toe in to increase straightline stability (factory set up range 0°00'-0°05') Increase by 5' increments of toe in to 0°20' . Toe out will be good for cornering on a track but you will NOT enjoy it on day to day driving as the tramlining will be worse -If you are still not happy then consider swapping for 245/40/18 tyres fronts(assuming you have 18"Rays) which will fit the wheel no problem ( Just like the rear can be upped to a 265 ) - If all these don't do it then you need to invest in a front camber arms(ichiba are the cheapest from Adam @ Z1) to allow you to dial more negative camber in the front. 1°50' IMO seems to be optimal for road driving(factory is 0°10' to -1°20') All these measures are to improve front end grip and as a consequence steering "feel" or weightiness in road conditions but bare in mind than you should only make small changes at a time as to identify what works and also too big a change might affect the rear geometry eg increase oversteer so you may have to counteract this with some tweaking which is easier as there is toe and camber adjustability or just wider tyres or increase presures just like the front If all this fail then

Nice black on black zed but need colour coding the door handles and badges to get you as stealthy as mine is As for your question about mods its too vague and needs some direction and budgetary consideration etc Ask youself what you want to change/improve or modify? E.g. Aesthetics(in or out), engine performance, handling etc or a bit of everything. The next step is to set a scale of preference and a budget limit for all the mods or different stages of mods overtime. Then ask this question again and together with some prior reading up or snooping in the various sections/links eg photos, braking, performance etc we can help you as you would have an idea/focus of what you are looking for then At the end of the day modding should be your preference with some guidance and informed choices you make here and there................ but if you want to be spoon fed i will say stick a twin turbo and you are off to a flier

Joy says she has to come so that she will have someone sensible to talk to Fingers crossed

Everyone in the UK knows he's always late ... cant make the text any bigger to get his attention There you go Nurrish[/color] a wake up call now

well done Jerry for hanging in there Hard times never last but tough men do

Might be one for you or Nurrish to blaze the trail now

I know but is there anyone here with one installed? feedback would be good

This should certainly get into the "to do" list of our ever growing FI zed members or any serious trackday weapon I had the oportunity to drive an E46 M3 with this gizmo fitted when i had my cabrio and was well impresed especially with the clean launch control but could never justify the expense on a poser car but looks Advance ME's have developed a plug & play solution is is cheaper than some going for a 1.5 way LSD which will improve some traction issues but nowhere near this TC http://www.advancedme.co.uk/AME/images_ ... Page_1.jpg http://www.advancedme.co.uk/AME/images_ ... Page_2.jpg Hopefully this is not a repost

Top suspension work mate I can believe how much work to change the subframe bushes I have been holding fire getting the front and rear bush kit including subframe, transmission and engine mount but been concerned about the labour cost and now i have reason to be Is this the only way to swap these subframe bushes by removing the whole subframe? what where the estimated labour costs. NB: the creaking and banging maybe from the stiffer bushes

I'm waiting on husky to do his super duper led clusters Ahhhhhhhhh Almost forgot about that one It has been so long He is such a lazy sod that puppy

to the forum The zeds auto is supposed to be one of the best in the industry but i am a manual shift bloke all the way That said you can improve the lag with a D1 spec throttle controller if you must buy this zed in question you are eyeing up. I have been a passenger in an auto zed and it seems to make a hell of a difference. Good luck hunting

Nice Neil, looking You now need to do the rear cluster foglight mod to make the rear symetrical. I have a spare red LED you need for the job

Congratulations Ian Very nice graph and figures mate It is a very safe tune and would reward you with super duper reliability. I can't wait for the pics/vids so hurry up with that damn chinese

This trip is dead in the water as everyone has had one issue or another! I am now on my own now and as i have to purchase/fit a new clutch hyper single clutch, oil cooler and sump spacer not to mention full set tyres I may as well give up on this May trip and go in June/July instead to give my wallet breathing space So not to worry chaps we can plan this again

Buy a new set from Halfrauds and you can remove the old ones and replace with fresh ones Will be cheaper and take less time than valve stem replacement I have had these for 3 years and they have never seized and are still in VGC

Which is why i decribed it a a "ram type" to mean it had some ram effects. Just like we aggree its a CAI too Or should i have said semi ram type Bottom line we are both trying to tell the OP the OEM airbox esp the revup one by itself is more than adequate if performance only is what he wants right?

Sorry Chris it is RAM type intake. While for e.g the pop charger is an short ram intake(SRI) : "A ram-air intake is any intake design which uses the dynamic air pressure created by vehicle motion to increase the static air pressure inside of the intake manifold on an engine, thus allowing a greater massflow through the engine and hence increasing engine power". -WIKI more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Short_ram_air_intake "It is setup as a semi-ram type intake. Under speed, the front grill area directs air into the "snout" behind the bumper and pressurizes the airbox. The stock airbox provides great heat shielding for the filter. After going through the filter, air travels up a slightly curved plastic tube where it reaches the throttle body". - 350z tech

See similar for £11.95 or £15 f you include p&p. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT But frankly i would not bother if i where you and have the OEM Revup(GT4 or 2006-2007) airbox If its the DE (<2006) airbox you got then you will improve things massively with swapping for a revup one and a decent panel filter because the OEM setup is well designed RAM type intake and takes only cold air from outside the engine bay. The DE is moderately restricted at the intake trumpet within the box but this was redesigned in the Revup cars Frankly you would be hard pressed to better the setup with any aftermarket upgrade unless its for the noise

Sorry guys! Stopped doing this as i have had supplier issues The original chap i was dealing with got bored with us (forum), since we where only buying about max 5 sets of tyres a month which is just too little volume to be worthwhile for him especially as i always wanted the best picks and that was a hassle to sort out and match. The subsequent suppliers have just been too unreliable, so was not worth getting myself into trouble as i found out I started this just to helpout as i was easy to do everything via emails/pm and to continue will mean full trading and to make my own contacts in Germany and which i can't as my dayjob is already a handful So please mods lock this thread