GT4 Zed

Endless, project Mu, Greddy ???? You are paying for brand Don't think any of the above will better from a performance perspective.

+1 on the clear silicone. Moreso it will come off without any fuss if i want to revert later

Way better Ian If i had got the TA off you someday that would have been my first mod. Get rid off the pink wheel nuts Now, i reckon Ksport BBKs are your next move since Apex is now trading here means more discounts to the already very competitive prices

Awesome pic of a fit lass on hthe driveway of her nice pad and........................ ohhh a zed standing next to her to the forum

Goodluck with the claim! I've been there and its a waste of time Going slowly, diagonally or even totally avoiding a route with known "ramps" is the oly way to stay safe. Also on approaching what is seemingly low bumps or in general drive over them offline! Because over time ruts/tracks form on the road surface and artificially raise the height of the bump

How about the whole range for comparison Mitch The falkens are cheaper than the vreds but very good for their price!. 285s http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... 3b0s2171p0 245s http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... 3b0s2147p0

That is slammed and stetched! The rear wheels in particular If you corner hard you will be riding on the rims

cue camskill 245/30/20 http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... 758s2147p0 285/30/20 http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... 758s2171p0 more http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... res_-_20+_

Classic On a serious note, congratulations and do post pics

apologies

Mine was from the privacy tonneau which i promptly ditched then from the tonneau divider which went too Its all quiet now except i have removed the thick carpet, all the sound deadenning underneath the car, tools and spare tyre so the K1 is multiplied by 2

You should not be trying to get away with 245/35/20 in front its just too big 275/30/20 at the rear is Ok and we don't know how wide his wheels are to carry 285s but i would think most 20s are 20x10J so he should be able to go bigger. I think the sensor is off the diff and OS ARB arms which explains why madmarky may be Ok in normal conditions but i suspect it will be a different matter if he pushes hard esp if poor grip conditions and there might be to late a warning you don't need to measure the wheel width to get the info. take out a front and rear wheel and on the inside face will be stamped the ET and hopefully diameter and width( 20 X xJ)

+1 Secondly, those Nexens are sh--t It may be ok ish when dry if you are driving easy but spirited or in the wet is diabolical with sudden loss of grip and excess roll from the side wall which is like butter! Get yourself decent rubber and if you want good perforkmance for good money the Falkens 452, Vredstein sessanta or toyo T1Rs are money well spent otherwise spend big bucks on ultra high perfomance stuff. You get what you pay for.

Go for it if the history is kosher and no problems required to be sorted. The zed is very durable and 72k miles is early days Nice choice......black is beautiful

Surely it will be cheaper long run to buy a 2way clutch type diff when you add up the labour cost of shimming, parts, diff oil, time and hit and miss results or even a 1.5way for the best of both worlds and use some bald tyres and set you suspension to reduce rear end grip if needed

Will probably be useless if you have a BBK aswell That true, well noted

Ditched my spare wheel ages ago and i think it has been good think from handling and weight saving perspective. I have got 2 cans and never had to use them Note: if you have 19" then the spare wheel is useless anyway Unless you can source 19" re-lacement or get after market space savers with a compressor like the Porkers. Chris make me an offer for the spare

nice

Bloody hell! You're still alive then? +1 on that

Very good decision Fee Congratulations Check out the meet dates for you region! will be worthwile

I am pedantic i know and like myself some others like to know all these type of facts Thats whats a forum is partly for init? And next time don't read it

How will the tyre profile set off TCS?. The profile or AR is only a percentage of the tyre width so 265/35 is 35% of 265mm. the important thing is the rolling radius or diameter or circumference of the tyre (whichever you prefer) which gives you the size of the tyre to which TCS is set. So eg 225/445/18(659.7mm) is the same diameter(within 2.5%) as 295/30/19(659.6mm) as even 305/25/20(660.5mm) the only difference the width This is the only limitation to fitting wider wheels of the 2.5% of same rolling raduis will be the available arch size and the wheel itself( ET and width). But by your logic all M3 will have TCS issues (225/40/19 255/35/19) but rather it is so to give the sidewal l profile the same aesthetic look (thickness) Anyway I'm only trying to help no need pull my leg

12.9............. 10.4HP over stock filter is complete BS. I posted about this filter malarky on Andlids thread (can't find it) a while ago and and put up the relevent tests/links FYI and it is a complete nonsence that you can make as much power from a changing panel filters infact the OEM paper filter was as good as all these uprated stuff but most importantly it did what it said on the tin......................filter the air from crap . Most of the aftermarket guys claim in their market ploy that their filters flow more and filters more but how can that be; to flow more you need to filter less and if that the case that is bad for you engine The restriction is not the filter but rather the air pickup, airbox design and intake piping itself( route and size are usually a compromise) and to prove this the tester removed completely the filter and there was no significant difference in measured flow and similarly HP The same test measured pressure differences on both of all the panel filters on test and OEM filter and no significant drop demonstrated and they(filters) all showed similar flow results. From a filtration point of view the manufactures have spent milions in R&D and testing miles to arrive to the OEM paper design and it is not by fluke ( you would be surprised that foam filters, cloth, cones etc have all been used before ). Andlids tests was comparing the filtration properties of cone filters and the Apexi one came first. but it did not test the OEM filter If it did, it would have shown as did the results from the test i posted that OEM filters best or as good as SOME aftermarket filters and thats the job its there for The test went further to see at what point does the OEM filter get clogged up to become less effiecient and it was about 10K miles if i recall correctly and this raises the point that apart from risking your engine with these aftermarket items that promise unlimited use or can be reused after washing eg 50K miles like in K&N's case is BS as by then its incompetent as a filter. So this brings even more advantage for the OEM paper jobie which cost under £10! You can change it 2 or 3 times a year before it cost the price of a typical aftermarket stuff and you know it will do its job. The final discussion of the test was that if you want to improve intake flow in general, then you need to modify the airbox and piping ie less tortuous course and large diameter which is not easy as the manufacturer was also hampered by packaging the engine, noise issues, reliability etc when designing the cars and often the intake is an after thought. I was impressed by this test because it was meticulous, look at all aspects and was standardised. But most important it was an exercise in science rather than sponsored to purport a particular result or trend. it also covered several popular areas of content like turbocharging, NOS etc. I must find it Personally i feel the K&Ns , cosworth, Apexi, HKS and other bignames in the industry make relatively decent panel filters with reasonable filtration properties but it is just a cash cow for them as they prey on the unsuspecting modder and charge absurb prices when the OEM stuff is a good'un. After 10k completed miles my HKS is going to the bin and i'll be buying the Mahle paper filter bi-annually. I only do about 10-12k a year but this year will be sub 5-7k

No mate the profile's got nothin' to do with it The aim is always to stay within +/-2.5 the same rolling radius of the original wheel you are replacing check a wheel calculator to satisfy yourself Anyway i have ran this for ages even with 265/30 in front and no TCS issues just endless grip and nice steering feel http://www.alloywheels.com/tyrecalc.asp#