-
Posts
3,745 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by GT4 Zed
-
Good Job But before you settle down to some beers waiting for the match to start drive round the block to clean the brakes of surface rust. It will be perfect then
-
World Cup starting soon !!! C'mon England !!
GT4 Zed replied to Tarmac@TarmacSportz's topic in Off Topic Discussion
not impressed with france performance, guess will now have to support the next french speaking country, come on Algeria !!!!! The draw was what we needed! I hope we don't f--k it up now! Please DJ be strong -
should have said in the first place. Good point of warning Chris but this is not a failure of the Hel line but rather oversight by an unexperienced fitter. Should also add that lines feel slightly long too but I have fitted these twice now on members here with no issues. To get a rub-free fit you should use the higher OEM point on the strut and a zip tie and it takes up all the slack 1 continuous line has definate mechanical and reliability advantage as you rightly pointed and the are both braided SS. Only OEM is rubber. You also have a choice of many colour finishes or CF effect with HEL and no am not on commision MWtech here is doing them for £58 now
-
HEL is braided steel just like Goodrige and has no reported issues here on anywhere i heard off so they will be fine. Must be brand popularity or establishment which puts Goodridge infront. Get some uprated racing brake fluid eg Motul RBF600 or 660 while you are at it Traders here will get you discounts on al these
-
That is another example of how bad the nissan mechanics are if the rear pads +/- discs are worn badly they should have spotted it and adviced you Anyway, if they said full replacement it means both items are worn beyond the limit Usually if a pad has been worn down to metal for some time it tends to grind down the disc badly. £600 is for the usual ridiculously overpriced OEM parts and Nissan labour Speak to the traders on here and they can get you good deals on aftermarket replacements that are usually more performant. You can fit these yourself or get it fitted by a trader fitter or local garage. Also check the front axles sametime as you will get a better deal longterm doing all 4 corners
-
Wether its droplinks or ARBs you had replaced it has nothing to do with your brakes so if there is this noise from braking it will have to do with them not fitting stuff properly. you don't need to take brakes off when doing this job anyway so its Take it back to the stealers or if you are mechanically apt and keen then check it out yourself.
-
Even better shoot:clap: shes something Need to tidy the numberplate malarky
-
nope it will not fit Bhav, its a waste of time to polish. First you don't see it, secondly when it goes through a heat cycle it will look exactly like that again
-
Thats cheap!! Who did this for you? Are you sure that is just for the upper weather strip? I was quoted just over £200 per side Checked Nissan USA for comparison then and they went for $140($160 now) but their shipping cost is crazy so i am putting up with the wind noise for now. Item 5 on the diagram: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214252&chapter=&Sectionids=0,3263&groupid=51892&subgroupid=4667&componentid=0&make=25&model=350z%20Coupe&year=2005&graphicID=3714330&callout=5&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
-
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice, we likey
-
Instant ban and possible jail sentence irrelevance
-
Its a real shame as they have decent products and with a bit more R&D or rather finishing would be value for money The team's action are justified
-
1-Greekman 282.7WHP - VQ35HR 2-Mr Lizard 278WHP - VQ35DE revup 3-Dcash 274.4WHP - VQ35DE JDM 4-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 5-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 6-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 7-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 8-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 9-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 10-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 11-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 12-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 13-Pingu2 249.3 - VQ35DE 14-Ian 246.5WHP - VQ35DE 15-Toon Chris 242.3WHP - VQ35DE 16-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup *Post up your graphs in the dyno thread(Performance) if you want to get on this list for fun
-
Paul, are you splitting these? I need rear toe arms at some point but i could consider the rear camber arms too to match the pair if the the price is right Will just need to sell off my Eibach camber arm.
-
Looks the business now lover the wheels and carbon accents. Post up on the dyno thread so you can get on the "list"
-
Very nice, i love the rear I would only have considered it as a second sumer car and it wiould have to be retored to mint condition so one can keep it for life. Have a look at the driver seat . It looks like the previous owner(s) did not pack enough pants for though hairy moments
-
Greekman 282.7WHP VQ35HR 2-Mr Lizard 278WHP VQ35DE revup 3-Dcash 274.4WHP VQ35DE JDM 4-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 5-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 6-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 7-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 8-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 9-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 10-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 11-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 12-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 13-Pingu2 249.3 VQ35DE 14-Ian 246.5WHP - VQ35DE 15-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup As i said before its only a bit of fun. This is a general 350z NA mods list(DE, Revup and HR ) For proper comparisons refer to the dyno thread where all the mods/dyno info etc is kept for reference. Pingu2, your hub dyno figures will be quite accurate and similar to other dynapack figures here which are the majority here. But if you feel shortchanged then reveal your FW figure and subtract 17% loss which is what i have used to standardise all the figures here Mark, if you really would like it formalised then start a new thread and co-ordinate with a mod so as to keep it tidy and upto date if not it will be a waste of your time
-
Thanks for the head up Mark. Will you be providing all the above as a package deal as you promised while back? What are the prices? For the benefit of the newbies or those considering this route of tunning. Greekman 282.7WHP VQ35HR 2-Mr Lizard 278WHP VQ35DE revup 3-Dcash 274.4WHP VQ35DE JDM 4-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 5-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 6-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 7-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 8-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 9-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 10-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 11-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 12-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 13-Ian 246.5WHP - VQ35DE 14-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup
-
Sorry to hear you have this to sort out before you big trip I would revert to Alex knowledge in these matters and troubleshoot as suggested. My clutch when from full slip to now just sticking down occasionally and its seems to slip less I really don't know what this means but since am replacing the whole clutch and flywheel at some poit i just don't care anymore and i will drive it to the ground .
-
Yip, Greekman has more HP than all as expected from an HR with mods He did not put the graph the the right section. No graph no listing Anders stop fighting over scraps just bite the bullet and go FI. You have all the right foundation for it switching to HR will cost you as much as a used Vortech kit and you don't have to go crazy like Nurrish. As you know 400WHP or less is the aim for safety. Greekman 282.7WHP VQ35HR 2-Dcash 274.4WHP VQ35DE JDM 3-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 4-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 5-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 6-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 7-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 8-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 9-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 10-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 11-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 12-Ian 246.5WHP - VQ35DE 13-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup
-
Its pukka Its amazing how fickle this forum is I bought thed FRP one over a year ago from z-source USA and had it coppied by Rik and only got a single interest. it was going for £199 bolt on and now £150 on ebay. I think faffing about and not installing mine on has not help
-
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2010 ... oupon.html I think in the UK you can buy an extended transmision warranty to cover for failure within reasonable usage Its still cheaper than 16K out of pocket to replace it yourself .
-
This is a known problem with the tail end with the k-1 but there is some leeway to adjust it at the junction between the cans section and the mid sections ends. You can bend the hangers untill you get the right clearance. It is hard work ut with a lot of cursing and sweating the end result is good. There is a rattle/resonace that comes from the mid section touching on the crosmemeber underneath the car and the solution is in bending the midection hanger to lift this up or and to put 2-3flat washers to push the crossmember away from the pipe It is a shame that Japspeed cannot address such a simple problem but i guess its down to their supplier from China
-
That would be cheating if not disclosed
-
I used your highest. Is that a problem ?