GT4 Zed

Good work Anders But there is a lot of lip on those rotors . Have you measured the thickness? might just be worth refresing the Brembo kit with new/uprated rotors and pukka pads

Good luck with this But as mentioned above you need to or nissan needs to troubleshoot with a full inspection the exact issue rather than blindly change stuff. Even new pads will develope DTV if you have runout which is usually from the hubs. Thats why its good practice to check run out when installing new rotors and fit new pads sametime. Who has quoted you? So far as you have isolated the issue as DTV and this guys are employing an on car brake lathe then you are fine otherwise it will not work The only way to confirm DTV is to check the lateral runout

Nice write up Dan and overtly simplified to cater for varying depth of knowledge within the forum. I had covered this and actively discouraged people mixing tyres on each axle when i supplied part worns here. Worse still to mix on the SAME axle which is cardinal sin and asking for trouble People need to inform themselves period: before buying tyres especially and if they decide not to keep the OEM tyre rather than just do so on hear say or unfound recommendation or anecdotal evidence! There are other areas to I'm sure you left out for sake of not sounding to techie or boring such as thread depth difference, speed rating, load index etc which are also important to keep to OEM requirements. I have seen people with 4 cheap chinese stuff and with wrong ratings which is bad Anders also nicely pointed out tyre age being important too The only part i donot totally agree is your last statement about racing . YES sometimes it is an advantage to use mixed componds on different axles to achieve certain handling characteristics and is common practice in professional racing But at the end of the day one cannot transpose this into road cars so it really does not matter for our purposes

Nice vids mate. brings back memories of uni Back home we make a "peper soup" out of it with either fish, meat or lamb and you consume it the morning/afternoon after a heavy night of boozing and less i say it sobers you right up

Can you take a wider angle shot so as to help locate this part exactly just for reference But i agree with 3FIDDY must be loose so normal blow by oil is sipping through . If this was acting two way it would disrupt the negative pressure within the plenum chamber and result in rough iddling/running so nothing to worry . Start by making sure the bolt is secure and tight. Undo the bolt, dismantle the plenum completely and clean all the oil off with any solvent, and also the throttle butterfly valve too while you are at it Put it all back together. secure the problematic bolt after applying some thread locker and torque it to the appropriate amounts as with all the other plenum bolts. It is an easy DIY and the should be related guides here or 350ztech wiki or even youtube like this motodyne one to give you an idea.

Do the same too

The problem is not the spring clearing to openning mechanism once you press the release button but the extra weight of aftermarket or even OEM nismo spoilers overcomes the gas struts i believe the cars with OEM nismo kits have an OEM uprated strut. There are six ways to sort this problem: - The penny trick which i only learnt about now which has mixed results (probably works by counteracting the centerweight to shift the moment arm on the boots fulcrum) - Buy an uprated gas strut. http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=2976 - Regas your strut to cope with the added weight. Someone did this a while ago and posted the company who do this. So search..... It costs less than the option above - Live with it or remove the offending spoiler - Removing the counter weight which is at the center of the boot underneath the plastic trim Thats what i did for my N1 replica and it does the job and allows the boot to stay up most times(fails on cold days sometimes). Might not work for other heavier spoilers. - Try a combo of above and penny trick

Yes you may well have DTV but you need a full diagnostic check to exclude other causes of vibrations on braking. Nobody will cover brakes after 2yrs under waranty And 22k miles is more than reasonable for severe wear and tear to have developed Eg trackdays No lip means nothing. First, you need to do a proper inspection and measurement of the rotor thickneess and both in and out pads as any of them worn can cause this symptoms. Secondly, replace what needs replacing if at or beyond wear limit. But if there is lots of rotor left then get it skimmed as its the only definitive cure. Use Procut If you are getting a new disc then get run out checked and skimmed if way out. Also replace old pads for the best surface "marraige"

Wellcome back Ian, hope you had a swell time You are too hard on yourself mate? 258WHP is an improvement on your stock but the car will be way more responsive and smooth with the Uprev allowing for 100% throttle etc And again once your NOS is setup you will have even more HP I am free to go picjk up your car if you are stuck at work

Got mine done by archenemy last year they offer a mobile service and it cost me £80 for the rears. It is the same tool and process as the vid and takes about 1-1.5hrs all inclusive. The paint should not crack if there is no underlying rust which is not uncommon in the arch lip area. i think mine came about due to damage from rubbing when i fitted the 295s first before rolling so avoid the same mistake. He pointed the rust to me before doing my driver side and the paint did peel and the rust is still progressing. The passanger side was rust free and the paint has remained fine. In anycase you will have to accept a waiver that even is all is done well you can still develope rsut or cracking of the paint later as a result of roling. It did not bother me because i got a quote for £55 to repair the arch and blend the paint http://www.archenemy.co.uk Call/email the nearest local service to yourself and allow at least a week to secure a date

Nice one Gav My mate attends this religiously from worcester but i am always too lazy to follow. Must do it sometime

Are we meant to mind read who they are Bennet? http://www.redditchshotblasting.co.uk/ I thought i pasted the link

That is not a reason mate just anecdotal evidence and based on a bike ABS on its own prevents locking wheels under hard braking so you have control since a skidding wheel does eff all and this is a proven fact and has been used for decades successfully As such apart from improving braking control it reduces stopping distance. But i agree that this does not work on all surfaces eg gravel and ice but on the usual tarmac dry or wet it works. The issue is that modern ABS is linked with EBD,TCS, ESP, ASR, CBC or whatever accroym they come up with which electronically control the front-to-rear brake bias etc by usage of sensors on the wheels, steering wheel, brakes hydraulics, gyroscopic sensors etc and all under ECU control. These advanced systems are what we percieve as a hindrance sometimes when the ECU cuts in power or assist braking in anyway to prevent loss of control. But in this case unhelpful to you the driver assuming you know what you are doing even on track or on the road Personally, I would prefer a system like a switchdial which decreases electronic control in steps until all control is to the driver. eg race logic is decent aftermarket sytem.But such systems are expensive as OEM and will only be found in more expensive cars. The ESP button on the zed when pressed off reduces some electronic control but pure ABS remains and i have had no issues with this except in a few corners where you feel interuption but for a second or so. Even with the ESP on it hardly comes on if you are driving properly eg braking in straight line , using the right speed/ gear for a given corner, smooth steering inputs and together with good tires, right pressures and decent brakes etc:P The guide that my chap posted is the next best thing as it cuts off all electronic control except ABS. Carbon Forza guide is more extreme and cuts everything as far as i understand and i think that is plain dangerous even on track and even you are blessed with car control. Race cars can afford to do away with most sytems because they have better braking, handling, grip and aero and yet most racing drivers will prefer to have some sort of assistance but one that can be modulated to your style, track or conditions

Its behing the center console when you remove the whole unit. There full guide with pics is in www.notre350.com and this chap's user name is Taurim. I registered so i could copy the guide with pics but was unable to do it for some tech reason and I have since lost access due to inactivity You may be luckier than me if you are IT savvy;)

Congratulations But

Very nice +1 on lowering and a subtle body kit to make this pop You may get away with the need for rolling the arch for now because the vreds are round shouldered unlike the square shoulders of MPS 2s

It depends Has this been a trend? when did you last check it? Have you check where the car was parked for signs of leak? The common area is at the connections to the PS cooler which is on the passenger side of the bumper. If there is no obvious leaks then it would most likely be trickling from the any of the joints in the PS system. You will have to inspect from the underside. To top up you need the OEM ATF fluid which is a dexron II i believe or you drain the whole thing a fill up with fresh Dexron II or III fluid eg Motul etc. It will be Ok to drive reasonably before you get to change it but if it starts whirring away or jerk o0r become heavy then its too loo or the is air in the system which means its no longer safe to continue

+1 and

Did you check how much cheaper do the wheels work out there?

Why would you want to disable ABS anyway in does not interfere with track work Its the TC/ESP you want to fully disable to get predictable control or am i wrong? I posted this way back on how to disable ESP and i know this chap well and he is qualified to give feedback. He does a consistent 08:10 BTG on the Ring. To totally cut the ESP, I added a switch to cut the ground wire on the yaw sensor harness. As soon as i push the switch, the 2 ESP indicators on the dashboard indicate a default and the ESP is totally off.ABS remains active. When you cut the power with the key and turn it back on you have the ESP back. I installed the switch in the little glove box in the center console behind the gear stick. http://www.notre350z.com/forum/files/up ... sp-off.jpg The thing with the red button is a LANC remote to trigger my video recorder installed in the glove box behind the passenger seat. So it's invisible for the ring marshalls :-) I dont remember the color of the ground wire (white and green ?...) but you can easily find it with an ohm-meter : 0 ohm with the chassis. Some prefer to cut the power wire (orange, N°3 on the plug).

Give these guys a call. I and Nurrish have both used them and they are good, fast and cheaper than other places i had quotes from. But importantly they have experience in this area and get commisioned to do OEM work in the automotive industry.

1. remove pipe work on T/B yes 2. Unplug sensor (i guess being electric there's one) yes3. Undo the 4 bolts (opposites i take it when undoing) yes 4. Remove yes 5. Clean with throttle cleaning (any other cleaners that car be used?) yes. i use white spirit and a paint brush to shake up the oily crud. longterm solution is to put an oil catch can to stop the blow-by messing the TB again 6. Replace (do you all use new gaskets?) Possibly a good practice but I have'nt ever had to 7. reconnect sensors and pipework yes 8. Start the car (?) or do you do a reset. Reset first 9. How the feck do you do a reset? see below or search again lazy There are guides from 350z tech wiki linked here covering lots of subjects including resets. I found one from Motodyneengineering too and I've always used this for no reason in particular. Which ever you use timing is critical for it to work! see page 9 of PDf doc http://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf If that link fails then go via this and click on the PDF doc then proceed to page 9 http://www.motordyneengineering.com/pag ... 47115c1708 P.S whats wrong with the good old fashioned cable throttle.. You probably have better control from the ECU point of view with resulting in more accurate fuel/air control but the downside is lag and les than 100% throttle openning..............D1 controller will cure the first and Uprev reflash the second.

Its always the balance between unsprung weight and wider contact patch with wider wheels. You should ideally only go wider and bigger if its lighter In this respect the OEM Rays are hard to beat Posting up this techie Spiel for fun : "The effect of ligther wheels on a car is much more than the static weight saving. The moment of inertia calculation is based on the ratio of the mass multiplied by the square of the radius, meaning that as the diameter of the wheel increases then the greater the energy consumption of increased weight becomes. The effect lighter wheels when fitted reduces this gyroscope effect of the wheel and this gives: -Improved acceleration and braking -Lighter, sharper steering, gives better feel and more responsive handling -Allows for softer damper settings giving more tyre contact & therefore better grip -Tire temperatures and pressures are more stable -Improved wheel & tire balancing -Reduced Fuel consumption Reducing the Un-sprung Mass can be quantified using a factor of six. This means that to achieve the same performance gain by reducing the body mass, it is necessary to remove six times the wheel weight saving. Eg. A saving of 2Kg Per Wheel x 4 Wheels = Removing 48 Kg from the Bodywork."