GT4 Zed

I should have thought of that! thanks

Oh ...and with the zed you will soon sort yourself with another GF But make sure its you she really likes and not the zed

As the above title, would these be a straight pnp swap for my UK GT4 zed or do the fittings require modding? And what about the ballasts? Do i need to swap these too? I have an opportunity to snap these from accross the pond cheap Thanks

I read 350z US a while ago that on the zed the a/c on is worth <3mpg more and in the <5-7hp parasitic loss:surrender: so its not to bad overall. Mythbusters worked out that with windows down is better up to 55mph and worse thereafter but it means little as it all depends on the aero profile of the car. the zed as a good Cd so it may be worse due to more drag created with the windos down. WRT to your excess fogging in your car I think you need to exclude other causes excessive moisture which is more likely than just cold ambient weather. I donot have any fogging issues once the initail mist has been cleared off The prime culprits are: - wet boot or floor mats from leaking rubber seals after rain or overzealous valet/car wash . - user error :You should not recirculate the air but rather switch to refresh mode when its especially cool outside or when you notice the mist building. The middle dial controls this function which a simple press down and the light indicates either choice. If you find no faults try to stop sweating alot or use antifog. finally as already covered the ac is more efficient at removing mist than the heater that will take ages and the window down is likely worse on yuor mpg

Just seen this. Very fresh idea for your zed See the pics below for some alternative ideas - one of my favs. Hopefully someone could render a photoshop version of this for your zed This look should be easy to achieve with body wrap, wheel powdercoat, front grill and loads of decals Profile Rear front front close up

If you like the predictability of the 040 then you will love the 050 which is grippier in both wet and dry conditions and with a stiff side wall to keep things predictable and progressive Personally i think the 040 is better than falkens on the heavy zed but it needs heat in them to perform due to having a harder/tougher compound. The upshot is very good all weather grip and longevity . the 050 is an evolution of this but more performance oriented and falls in the high performance bracket as the MPS2-3, CSC II-III, Pirelli P-zero range etc.

mate. love the color of your track toy

Thanks Daz for the info but i did add a link which gives you all the info/specs Bump

no worries Checked with breakers? A1 in manchester are decent and always have good zed stock. i can look up their details if you need it

i've got full OEM suspension(springs, struts, ARB, arms etc) and the 4 hoses boxed up in the garage Pm your offer and these can be with you asap PS: I can also trade for some bits.

Been to Dominica x2 (longtime now ) not that resort. mine was toprated and i can't fault the service or hospitality . Very nice people and freindly. If your hol is all inclusive you will find it hard to leave the resort as everything you need is there especially if its by the sea. there are some quad/buggy rentals/ excursions and safari tours to hinterlands where you meet locals, visit waterfalls and other natural attractions, swim in rivers/picnic etc which is arranged by some companies not associated to the resorts. It is popular and worth it. It takes a whole day so plan well. There is also a go Kart track which is not bad. cheap and usually not too full so you can try and beat my lap record if it still stands just take the usual precautions as when you are abroad and you will be fine. Just don't buy a time share as i almost did those guys can make you sleep/dizzy with offers enjoy your hols James

I think oil consumption is particularly a problem with the Rev up engine There is no set patern to the consumption and on average i need to top up between .5-1L every three months. therefore I always check the level weekly or before any major hoon. From your comments above the DE appears to be fine but i will still do checks for peace of mind rather than get oil damage.

Black is beautiful

Congratulations to you and the missus Welcome little Finlay. My boy is 10 months old now and i can hardly believe it

Paul you are nuts GLWTS

Reduced to £350ono Bump

Bump

good tip

Hi there mate, (thanks again for the brake thread) Im interested in your statement about the utec unlocking the "true potential" of the car. I have a TT setup and was thinking whether i should take it out and go with uprev or retain it and find an authorised tuner to check it over for me etc. If you have the stock APS TT setup and its running fine why would you want to change it? I take it comes with the Unichip piggyback which is fine. It may not have the other capabilities of UTEC or other more sofisticated piggybacks but it works. However if you mean you actually have the UTEC with your APS TT and you want a fine tune because you have made some changes or plan some upgrades or to run more boost etc then any tuner can remap it. The software to do this is a free download from Turbo XS website. What i meant by unlocking the potential of the car is that putting mods without a remap (eg with Uprev or a piggyback eg UTEC or standalone ECu eg haltech for that matter) is that it does not realise the full gains possible because the factory ECU is self-learning and want to always revert to the OEM tune. With a reflash or an EMS you make the gains that these mods bring and safely. Both systems get you the same objectives in the hands of a good tuner. I mapped my UTEC at Thor racing and had no issues. Abbey is the guru with Uprev and tuning in general so i'm sure he can remap any ECU or piggyback if he has the software as the principles are the same. When you say 'unlock true potential' what do you mean exactly, can you quantify that, what exactly would the utec have over the uprev? As above there is no point comparing both systems as both can realise your tuning goals. the choice depends on you, cost, availability and good tuner. There are small differences how with how these system go about doing the job but it is really not that different in the grand scheme of things your gains will also depend on alot of factors and is too long to try and explain. the main thing is if tune correctly the car will be an improvement over standard and still be reliable. Please dont take offence as thats not my intention, just trying to learn no probs mate. i answered you last questions on the BBK btw is that ok?

Andy, I have have till next summer to keep the zed and replace it with a and IMO the best mods that made the most peformance improvements for track use was the full suspension upgrade and BBK so for my last trackday season next summer i want to get the full bracing kit and upgraded bushes(mine have gone), engine /tranny mounts and possibly an LSD to optimise the handling for this last hourah. I hope to save 15sec off my Ring time and nail an 8mins BTG flat Though the 30+ hp gain i had with the UTEC and mods was nice i am quite happy to sell this and the mods to offset the cost to get the above as it makes no sense to spend more on a car that is going in about 8 months. I have already sold my HFC, MREV 2 and other bits. I will be putting the full catback exhaust system, plenum spacer and some other bits for sale soon when i get them off. My suspension and BBk have already got a firm buyer for next year so there you go

don't take this too hard mate! there could be a ton of reasons why it underperformed and may not represent the cars true Hp figure. you would expect to see 240 - 250 whp on the rev up though. i would say get all your mods sorted and go for a remap with Uprev or you can get my UTEC EMS for about the same money and unlock the cars true potential. I got a GT4 too and had all the same mod you want to go for

Lee man, how the hell are you? you are the most elusive guy on this forum so its an honour to hear from you have you got you stripped zed racer going?

I think what ceaser is saying is true about the overall performance of synthetic oil and though they have a good performance envelope there is still a small amount of engine wear albeit far lower than with mineral oil, so letting the oil come up to optimum temp before letting hell break loose is sensible and important for engine longevity or performance. WRT oil temps at the track the same applies and as noted by Steady and djtimo you tend to see temps of circa 135c on the track and though the oil can deal with this range it is not optimal so a thermostated oil cooler that maintains the oil in the optimum range is advantageous especilally in endurance racing. i have also read that 90-105 deg c is optimal for most modern engines so why not keep it within that range. i also do agree with wasting oil by too frequent changes when it still has useful life and i am guilty of this too but again i see it as cheap insurance. It will be more effective just to change the filter and get rid of the particules and contamination but really how do you do that without changing the oil too? The same applies on many things we do on our cars to improve performance. this is possible becasue the manufacters leave a lot of leeway to ensure longevity, meet regulation or reliability but you can always improve on it if you go the right way about it