GT4 Zed

+1 Even mileage adjusted i don't see running a shed cheaper! You have to understand that apart from the cost of having a shed, the time off the zed is a hidden cost You bought it in the first place to use it and enjoy it. This becomes nominal when you are always in the shed so you are then just paying for depreciation with no "return" by means enjoyment/satisfaction. That my friends is the biggest cost I will drive my zed daily until i can afford the R35 which will be driven daily too! My OH has a sensible car for shopping and family duties and thats the short if it On the other hand, if i could'nt afford performance motoring anymore i will just downgrade to something that will give me satisfaction and yet be a downgrade as well. simples!

Got the vailiant ecotec plus 937 ~ 37KW Its a monster and since install almost 2 years ago I have no complaints. Efficient(SEDBUK "A" rated)............super quiet..............Hot water on demand..........very good pressure/flow...........reduced gas bills and the best part is the IR remote thermostat which i can move from room to room to adjust individual room temps Has scaled all the maintainance checks no sweat so far. Expensive to buy and install but will pay for itself in longterm. I Highly recommend

niceeeeeeee

Lucky b%@tard Get some got shots or vids and post your impressions James for the rest of us who have not been blessed with this privilege sofar

You've got an LSD which is a viscous type LSD as opposed to the mechanical types.(clutch or gear type. clutch types are more popular) The VLSD is great for general use but becomes overwhelmed on prolonged aggressive track use and if you intend to do drifting then you need a 2way mechanical type LSD or for the perfect track spec car a 1.5 way item. The Quaife ATB LSD (torque biasing)comes highly rated for general use and track work in terms of smooth unobstrusive of operation, life time waranty and zero maintenance. Most of the others Nismo, ATS cusco are noisy and not smooth and will require maintenance eventually and diff oil change. There are pros and cons for all LSDs and also many sub-variants eg torque sensing or torque biasing etc so you need to identify what you are after or stick with the VLSD. I think most Uk zeds have the VSLD except for the non-GT spec variants(open diffs) but someonne will confirm shortly

Hi Anthony Do listen to the words of wisdom offered ~300bhp FWHP RWD is a very different kettle of fish from ~230FWHP FWD. Save up and get one asap and then decide what you need to do to improve a very accomplished car to start with. Its not only about power but what you want from it will make a huge difference. ie drifting, fast road, trackday weapon or allround A to B car. For example, I went for the track route and also spent close to 3K to get NA power and ended with 270WHP(316FWHP) from 250WHP But the greatest improvement worth 50BHP IMHO was a big brake kit, wider wheels with grippier rubber and full suspension upgrade. As a result, i have sold off most of my NA mods except the plenum spacer and header back 3" exhaust (as i felt it was too much dosh tied down for 20WHP). If i were to make a natural progression with my mods it will be to upgrade bushes and mounts all round, get a 3.9-4.08 FD and 1.5 LSD and a single carbon clutch and lightflywheel and finish it off with UPrev remap But if money was no object for me and knowing what i know now i will do all of the mods i have sofar plus the above, add some track safety and enhancement stuff(lighten, race seats , roll cage, oill cooler etc), Ikeya formula sequen shifter and go for full NA power with a 4-4.2 stroker kit with forged internals, cams etc aiming for 350-380FWHP(Circa 400FWHP) - It will cost similar to FI build but more reliable, higher revs and more usable power in all kinds of driving requirements So you will see that things will change when you finally get a zed. It maybe you may just want cosmetic enhancements or sharpen up the response with Uprev or piggy back ecu or just leave it as it is and use the saved dosh to enjoy the car thoroughly

to good health Mike happy birthday

24/34mpg???!!! Attak you must have had a very different zed or just Miss daisy-ing at the wheel I see 19mpg/27mpg urban and motorway and see 9-16mpg on track, not that i really look I have seen 45mpg going down hill in traffic coasting Anyway, all your questions have been covered so go and have fun and start to plan your mods

c'mon lads it could happen to the best of us lets welcome him with open hands do introduce yourself in the noob section and some pics of your beast will be nice

It should be fine to remove m8. I can't tell from the pics which bit this is and its a while i did mine, but i removed all the OEM shields as the were rusted or rattling with the K1 and its been fine for over 1.5yrs

nice one Steve. Hope you have an even better season this year. Must come and watch/support you this year;)

+1 but those IT b%@tards catch up all the time and i'm running out of proxies

If you want to get rid of the wobbliness then it will come down to what you really want the car to do ultimately............? Normal A to B driving, fast road handling, drifting, trackdays or importantly budget Start with getting the newer droplinks to replace your worn DL(s). And if but there is still any issues, pinpoint it and decide on what is unsettling you most and address it logically. Tyres brand also have a big role to play as so does tyre pressure. So fiddle with this until you are happy by making 2psi changes at a time. Beware of el cheapo tyre At this stage it is worth rechecking your alignment geometry too. There are three common rear end issues with the zed; wobbliness, roll or wheel hop. That said the OEM zed is a very good handling car and well setup for normal driving in normal conditions. As a rule: - Adjustable ARBs will enable you to stiffness both ends of the axle and reduce roll. - Lowering your COG will also reduce roll and improve handling. Options are lowering springs or coilovers.(Depending on how low the car is set to, you may need adjustable camber/toe arms to restore geometry. You may also need ajustable DLs.) - Wobbliness/wheel hop at the rear is due to the soft squishy OEM suspension arm and subframe bushes. Swapping with urethane or solid bushes cures this. - Geometry and set up of your mods are also very important and you can still have every suspension /handling mod but if its not set up right for your application or driving style, you will be unhappy. Finally remember that if you address the rear so you must address the fronts, The more adjustablility you have helps but the more painful it is to find the sweet spot as any change in one area affects other areas. Ultimately its just a question of how far do you want to go ...............???? Chassis bracing or roll cages etc

See the dyno chart thread for info, but as said already, Abbey down south or RS tuning up north(Leeds) can sort you out with the Uprev remap as one of the popular tunning option. Looks like Horsham developments will be joining the party too soon. Greekman and Andymc both have HR i believe and are making close to 300WHP and higher torque with a few bolt-ons than the revup or DE engines will ever make

As above its a DIY if you got tools and somespannering skills Will be nice to introduce yourself to the forum too. We won't bite

Not bad. 25 laps would have cost me about the same if i factor in the €30 and ring werk sweetener Hopefully we get convenient dates for April. Good job Ian

It should work no probs The reinforcements and welds look structurally sound.

Stunning example The 355 is one of the best fezzas in my book anytime but if i could afford the running cost of ferrari ownership, i would opt for the 430 scud.

Clean............... Then it can be me

It was'nt me I thought i was the only kuro in the village

Congratulations Chris on this venture pm sent

This is better news after the recent gloomy tales about the Ring's demise! Expect to pay about £23-25 per lap depending on the xchange rates but i think punters will still have a good deal when staying over but local business will be undertreat lonterm as already suggested http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default ... ryId=23038