GT4 Zed

Thanks Chris for providing the answers. Always on the ball mate The price is for both sides. Could not catch up with Ross @ superpro today due to gtting pinned down at work but off tomoro so i will confirm price. They will last way longer than stock and you would find that 30K mile/3yrs waranty for something that is engineered for track use is damn good. It will be fit and forget for DD and fast road/hooning use. What you have to bear in mind is not just longevity but importantly it will firm up things in front hence better and consistent handling. People should be flocking in on this I can guarantee that almost all lowered zeds have this issue and most of those over 40K miles will have advance deterioration of the banana arm bush and other bushes.

Always fuelled as required No need to carry extra weight penalty if i need to do long a long journey i fill up 40l at a time at most. Only excption is when i know there will be no 98/99octane fuel on the way then i fill up to the brim On track days i go for 25l max per fill up and use the fuel brake to let the car cool and do checks

Daren's mx-5 looks pretty nimble and well hooked up well done guys

As the title says i have been in touch with Superpro Uk the only company to make polyurethane compression(banana) arm bushes to replace the common knackered OEM rubber bush resulting in clunking and knocking infront suspension from 30-40K miles onwards but worse is the poor feel and inability to retain geometry setup leading to increase tyre wear and poor handling. They cost £158.76 incl VAT - Superpro dealer recomended price but we will have a 10% discount on ontop of that! I will confirm final price tomorrow This discount offer applies to any of their other bushing offerings. See the diagrams in my thread for all bushings. Standard banana arm bush is product code SPF2847K. viewtopic.php?f=100&t=47058&start=0 Put your name down if strongly interested to get these. Note the only alternative is to buy new banana arm with OEM rubber bush from Nissan at +£300, used from breakers with no guarantees or get OEM type bush to replace worn bushes from traders here or get solid spherical bushings from SPL but these are back ordered for weeks. OEM type bushes will tear again especially if you zed is lowered or driven hard. Urethane and solid bushes are the best upgrades. They cost almost twice as the OEM type rubber bush but will last longer and handle better and consistently. The GB will entail buying direct from Superpro or their dealer. I would just be providing the discount code to club members before their purchase. Unless i negotiate a rep status in which case i will set up a member trader account as per forum rules and trade directly with members. We need to show interest by getting at least 5 names down asap . All items in stock. Feel free to direct all questions in this thread. I'll try to answer them. In summary what you get is: Improved handling and stability Long life, low maintenance Precision engineered for an exact fit Increased tyre and suspension life No increase in vibration and road noise 3 Year / 30,000-Mile Guarantee 1-GT4 Zed 2- 3- 4- 5-

Jez, nice to give some feedback with the superpro bush. WRT to camber arms i will recommend SPL and Eibach/SPC a distant second. I had Ichiba arms and they do the job and though i did not have any problems with them the quality is not the best and noticed one ball joint had some play and the dust covers were torn on both sides. It is a common problem so i would avoid any similar style camber arm. I have seen a Cusco arm after 1 year of fast road use and DD and it was in a similar mess Anyone modifying for track work, i would recommend doing atleast the compression arm bushes, the rear subframe and diff bushes uprated and engine mount or damper. If budget no limitation the doing all the bushes including engine and transmission mounts will be best. Getting adjustable suspension arms wherever possible, coilovers, ARB, endlinks, brakes, tyres, bracing, short shifter, LSD and weight loss will also be important. Power mods should be last on the cards as they make little difference unless you go FI or major NA. I will be interested in corner weighting if the price is right

Hey Ian, sad you will have to let the zed go but it would have happened sooner or later. Where have you been hiding or doing mate? I think you have nothing to loose by try to sell the car as is or puting out feelers for the uprated parts and selling or part ex-ing as stabndard to get the TDi But from recent experince in the forum it is lots harder to sell whole than strip I can support your quest with firm interest in a few parts

What do they mean by your geo was fine? put up the printout sheet mate what is the wear partern? Have you excluded a slow puncture? Secondly the alignment is only a static snapshot and does not show what is happenning dynamically so if we asume that all your suspension hardware (arms, dampers etc) and tyre integrity are sound, the fault could most likely be with your bushes, particularly the compression arm bush or even the ball joint. Inspect these for cracks, tears, shrinkage or play. The telltale sign will be unequal caster readings and some disparity in toe and camber in front geo. if you repeat the alignment check just after putting the new tyre(s) and infact if you repeat again after a short drive these readings will be different knocking is a late sign

Hi Ian, finally you have posted up the very sad event that has befallen you. I was not sure to post this and explain you inactivity in the thread recently, especially as you had not done so yourself or expressed the wish to do so. How are you holding up mate? We can and will sort another trip Hope all goes well and see you soon Ian It looks like alot of guys on this thread are struggling with mods or other reasons and dropping out like flies.I for one still have my uprethane bushes to swap and with only two weekends free to do it, am running scared I will not book the ferry or hotel until last minute when i'm sure to make it. The extra cost will be minimal if at all and its not a big deal to find accommodation in or around Nurburg this time of the year I will pm Gazhull about the fuel tokens and if they are valid for a couple of months then i can get them now or next trip So anyone who can make it still should just confirm so on the sunday 3rd April in this post or pm me for convoy planning etc. Anders, are you installing this yourself or a garage? It will be a miracle to finish, tune and troubleshoot and be ready for this trip if you are doing the install solo and have a fulltime job Good luck though. nice kit

You can buy direct from them or any dealer handling their products. I maybe setting up a GB with them soon just waiting for their final confirmation

chippy check: -the top 2 nuts on the rear mounts are tight -the spring is well seated in the spring carrier arm and locating into the top 3 tabs on the chassis(I had this issue after installing my HKS RS coilies ) - finally reset the coilovers by setting it to full hard on both bump and rebound and drive for a full miles and then set it to you prefered level of bump and rebound. - also check clearances and intrusions from other parts or body work etc Droplinks tend to creak but if there is too much play may knock from abnormal ARB movement One of these should pick up the issue

1. Beavis 2. martinmac 3. octet 4. Tarmac 5. ChrisS 6. Chesterfield 7. 350Russ 8. Stew 9. bladesgrant 10. JetSet 11. Sam McGoo 12. mbs 13. NeilMH 14. AK350Z 15. Bockaaarck 16. DoogyRev 17. GT4 Zed

We are going to be seeing alot of this problems as most cars are getting to that age were the mushy bushes are deteriorating to produce noticeable play. I have just started a thead to cover what everything one would need to know before deciding on the best solution to replace the bush(es) at fault. viewtopic.php?f=100&t=47058 But on thing i would say is if you track your car or it is lowered then you need to be thinking at solid bushes from SPL USA, same one Abbey now carry or urethane bush from Superpro UK, because the OEM stlye rubber will tear again due to the banana arm siting an angle when lowered rather than neutral. For normal zed then the option of using this OEM style provided by Alex is perfect and cheap to buying the whole arm new from Nissan but you could still go for Superpro urethane bush for better longevity and firmer feel.

Thanks Steve and guys i hope we can have people conrtibuting their experience, costs etc when making adjustments, swaps to suspension parts and that the traders here can link or advertise their products here too so it is all a one stop info/tutorial thread.

Bushes We all know that the zed out of the box handles very well for DD, fast road and occasional track work but as the start to edge to 40K miles and above the suspension sufer with inability to hold alignment due to the fact that Nissan used so many rubber bushes between varios supension points and as naturally rubber perishes with age or aggressive use and allows play between parts that so have little or no movement al all. Typically you find that the car tramlines alot more and follows all the ruts on the road and excessive bump steer and when you think you have cure the problem with re-alignment it comes back again. These symptoms are worse with lowered cars or runing wider or grippier tyres The chief culprit is the dreaded front compression(banana) arm bush with which commonly goes first. The next is the tranverse link(lower control arm) inner bush which tends to go and once all these are affeected and unchanged the out bushes or spindle will be dammaged next leaving you wih horrible handling and a huge cost. The rear bushes tend to have little issues but because they are too soft means you have squirm and wheel hop especially on acceleration and roll. So replacing them with uprated bushes is necessary if you want a sharp handling car than retaines aligment settings which intend means you have a consistent feel and confidence when opushing on. The problem here is that nissan will only supply the bushes with the arm at great cost and donot sell isolated bushes. Nismo do make so harder uprated bushes but its also costly and will take ages to order. so the only solution is aftermarket which is cheaper than buying oem arms and oem bushes which will invariable perish if you use the car aggresively or lowered. I have done alot of research and as a result want to share some of the options available and provide a forum to discuss individual issues members may have. I have started with bushes and will cover other areas with time. My car is lowered on coilovers and has adjustable suspension on all the key areas for track performance and run on a stiff setup so i can tell you my bushes have had it and i will have to change the lot So in sumary you have the following choices: - Replace worn bushes with new OEM bushes and arm combo at great costs from the stealers. - Buy second hand OEM arms with bushes from the usual suspect (Zmanalex, Lee, Breakers etc)and hope they are in good nick or last. - Buy uprated rubber OEM style bushes and replace worn OEM ones. Nismo, Zmanalex(compression arm bush only i believe) - Buy after market urethane bushes and replace key areas or complete kit. eg whiteline, superpro etc - Buy solid bushes to replace key areas or complete kits. eg SPL, Abbey(compresion arm bush only i believe) The choice of what to go for will depend on what you use the car for, funds, replacement bushing availability. Eg You can replace just the compression arm bush and leave the rest if they are fine with either solid, OEM style bush or urethane and it should be ok but ideally if you wanted precise handling and consistent feel and avoid suspension bind (by mixing) it would be better to use the same bush type all through on the same axle or try and keep the same type on the same axis of the suspension. Eg All inner bushes could replaced with urethane and all outer ones OEM rubber on the same axle. As mentioned before some limitation exist as not all manufactures make all OEM replacement bushing. eg Whiteline makes bushes to replace all the OEM bushes except the compression arm bush. SPL makes solid bushes for all the OEM pick up points and so does Superpro who even make eccentric bushes to give you fixed maximum increase in caster, camber or toe where applicable. In my next post i will suggest scenarios to cheaply replace your worn bushes cheaply and depending on the usage of your car eg track day, budget and if lowered etc. I have been in touch with Superpro UK and they will be happy to offer a 10% discount to any forum members who get the bushes from them but i will direct them to the mods if they want to register as traders here and take it from there or just want to offer a discount code for the forum only. Note: i have no financial affiliation with them or any company for that matter as i go along this thread. i just want to share my experiences and simplify decision making for those with less experience but also provide a place for all suspesion related discussions to take place for the benefit of all members here. I will be getting most of my stuff from the US to save on costs and maybe offering an complete import service to get parts (used/new) from the states particularly from my 350z private sellers or vendors. I am still sorting out a few things and of course will have to register as a member trader to start this. Suspension schematics Link for further reading. a great read and something iwant to emulate here: http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-susp ... -a-21.html

Very nice

Who is still in and who out?! Looks like interest has waned and we are I month away

Thanks Beau for the pics but what i need is the rack dimensions as there are 2; 50mm and 52mm. There are 3 bushes to replace. The 2 "ears" on the right of the pic and the single large bush over the rack on the left. So pleae measure the diameter of both the single and ear bushes and the circumference of the rack and one of these should match 50 or 52mm Cheers

I've seen 167 in Germany so i believe 175 is achievable But in any case top speed counts for nought. I will trade that off for acceleration with better FD ratios

Sure mate, Ill get some pics and dimension up for you tomorrow. As for taking out the steering rack, at first it was quite difficult as its very had to get a 17mm socket as there are loads of obstacles in the way but you just have to find the right combination. Also make sure you spray a bit of WD40 the day before as these nuts are torqued quite a lot. I used a Long strong arm and a 17mm impact socket half inch. I removed the A frame at the bottom of the car to gain some space. I you need some help PM me! Oh and I still have the old steering steering rack, also the bushes on that are still like new considering the cat had did only 25,000 miles before the accident.... Beau Thanks Beau I have been spraying all the nuts and bolts underneath the car for the last 2weeks as I will be taking off all the control arms soon to swap urethane/solid bushes! so it should pay off I am confused about the A frame you mentioned?! Is it the black plastic over the K-member? See link for illustration: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/ ... bottom.jpg

Or try: http://www.archenemy.co.uk I used them and would recommend thier services. They do not have an agent in portsmouth but the nearest agent to you will make the trip. I paid £80 over 1 year ago to roll the rear fenders and the agent travel from oxford to worcester.

Nice job bringing this GT4 back to its full glory Do you still have the dammaged steering rack? Being it a GT4 like mine i would want some dimensions of the bushes as i want to replace mine to urethane jobbies. It will save me taking out my rack just to measure the bushes or getting fake info asual from the stealers who constantly get me the wrong stuff for the GT4. I need the ID and OD for the large bush and the 2 smaller "ear" bushes. How easy is it to take out the rack. what needs to come out?

Sold Lock it up mods

Bump Back up for sale. Buyer pulled out Its version 2 mate. Dave has made 2 variants so far and i had both. Infact i had the 1st ever production nav from him;) The major difference is the 2010 software update and larger 4gb card which i am getting installed before this ships so its as good as new. Save yourself £100.

Not bad for an man with a missing finger and hairy arms I know where to get my next detailing. you or wasso will do fine

Well done cookie to crack this i will get one when i finish all the mechanicals on my zed