GT4 Zed

These look serious, are balanced quite light They should have the option of an underdriven main pulley for those who want to go all out

+1 i'm afraid

All the points husky made covers why the zed is heavy but if you put it in context with similar cars you then realise is not just the zed but the whole industry suffer from the same issues. then when you add all the GT parts(heated electric seats etc) plus the crash test regs it all adds up! The only other way to improve performance is more power but then you have emissions and consequently tax and insurance band issues which will make the car uncompetitive in the market so their hands are tied But it takes some sacrifice, systematic approach in modding to realise the full potential of the zed and that is the real appeal. Eg you could get a 2003 zed for 6-7 grand and throw £30k at it and end up with bespoke performance and handling etc humbling of cars x3 the price because even those so called top of the range car eg Porsche turbo, GT3 GT2 GT2 RS, GT3 RS etc by aftermarket companies because they have to make compromises. I for one feel the zed is one of my best motoring experiences so far (i have had a few) and by far the cheapest but the most i got involved hands-on, as opposed to paying for mods/work to be done and drive off with the results, My two TVRs in the past (Tuscan and Cerbera) come neatly second.

Guys its not looking good for me for this trip as i ran into some problems this weekend which was my only time available to swap out my bushes for Superpro items and a few other bits and bobs. There is still a faint chance left if i can swap out of my weekend shift this weekend and be able to complete the bushes swap, reset geometry and re flash my UTEC as i have fitted a ported manifold i got from the states, MREV2 and decats. The tune up is not imperative as i can use the OEM map but the suspension is a must. Fingers crossed and i will be there Anders how is your progress?

Happy retirement Dave Well done for putting up with us all this years

I have only used MPS2 N1 spec exlusively on the zed for almost 3 years now and used to do 34F 35R to dial out understeer but found out that if you inflate to 34 you get 33 and 35 give 34 so now i do 35R and 36R to end up with 34/35 However the ability to adjust my suspension means i have other strategies to achieve a neural ride or dial in under or oversteer I got some RO1 spec(audi RS and S cars spec) MPS2 for the front in 255/35/19 as i could not get my usual 265/30/19 and it should even perform better as it rated rated 96Y XL as opposed to 94Y XLfor the N1. The zed is heavier in front than the porkers and should be similar to the fast Audis

Has to be the ball joint on the compression/banana arm It is hard to demonstrate play in them easily and you get false reassurance on finding damaged banana arm bushes thinking you have found the problem to you clunking. But they can all coexist and i think they are all a continum of the same issue.....too many soft rubber OEM bushes perishing over time and allowing unwanted play and damage to suspension hardware I have just found this out meself this weekend trying to replace my perished OEM bushe with Superpro urethane ones and discovered that my drive side ball joint has play in it So I have gone from a planned routine bush swap to needing a pair of arms in case the PSis fooked too! One advice i will give anyone with worn banana arm bush is to act quickly and replace it with whatever choice of bush now available as any delay will eventually impact on the ball joint meaning you will need a new arm or used in good condition which are rare as hens teeth quoting Zmanalex Next affected will be the Transverse link arm(lower front control arm) inner bush, then drop link, then outer bush and possibly camber arm ball joint and bearing.... due constant dynamic geometry instability For your compresion arm bushes here again are the options - Superpro urethane bush - see Horsham developments - OEM rubber bush - see Zmanalex - SPL solid spherical bush - see Abbey I have my self to blame for waiting too long

Hoppy buffday Nix

Even porsche drilled disc crack with heavy track use but less so as they are quality disc. Long and short of the matter is you get what you pay for but i will think that the PF, DBA, stoptech or brembo GT rotors will be ok for normal DD and fast road use and short trackday stints. but TBH, I will spend my money on PF 01 pads or similar race compounds(if you can stand the dust and squeal), braided lines, Dot 5-1 fluid and OEM brembo disc, even brake stiffner and get the optimum perforance you can get out of OEM size discs at way less cost. OEM size Slots, drilled dimpled disc etc from above manufacturers will make little difference compared to the outlay. The 2-piece lighter disc will be marginally better but price?!!! It comes all down to the swept area by the pistons and total SA for heat dissipation amongst other things and you are not really changing these variable by getting fancy discs But if look is your thing then feel free..................

Got my Superpro banana arm bushes today and H-dev spacers for my custom plenum spacer. Thanks Jez for the quick service Also got a few other goodies; X2 front rubbers. 255/35/19 MPS2 off course . Could not get 265s from my usual stockist so this will have to do Got the D1 controller in case i can't fit the intake manifold and MREV2 in time for a UTEC retune. Should be getting ported intake manifold and the MREV 2 tomoro I have put the car on stands and preoiled all the nuts and bolts on the K-member in readiness for removal of the arms early tomoro. Then its off to get the OEM bushes pressed out and Superpro ones pressed in and refit the whole thing. The OEM bushes look very sorry as i already knew from the clunking they made and vague feel. I hope to do a step by step guide for those who want to DIY to save labour costs. And off course there will be a review Some pics: Nice little package with bushes, instructions and grease. Note right bush preassemled by hand. Feels nice and well engineered. H-dev spacers for strut brace and plenum pillars. I have needed these a long time to fit my custom plenum spacer correctly. i will get rid of the washers i had been using Husky i think you need this Everyone should have one of these as the basic minimum to improve throttle response. Don't know why i got rid of it before Jacked up. ready to go Yep! thats the bad boy. you can see there is a slight twist on the vertical axis i pried it with a metal bar and its all over the place Doused all the nuts and bolts with WD40 to soak overnight after wire brushing all the rust and grime! Might need a long breaker bar to avoid stripping nuts Superpro bushes line up for the zed and product codes. I hopeto swap all these eventually. More discounts should be handy

I had the opportunity to hear that exhaust when Phil dropped by It is awesome A cross between nismo and k-1 but very cultured sound . Alex, how do you get hold of some of these parts?

This has been posted to death. Use a tyre or wheel equivilent calculatorto work out your needs 100s on the interweb http://www.tyres-pneus-online.co.uk/equ ... dvice.html or this http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual ... calculator

Ian, I'm so happy for you that have found the one Anymore details I wish we had had the that race in the zeds but maybe we will do it at some point on GTR with you blazing the trail Goodluck mate and keep us posted. but if you went for the R33 i will never speak to you again R34 or R35 FTFW BTW its a good thing you did not go TT; you would be broke after all the eventual hiccups Mid mount or rear mount @ around 380-400HP would be safer and cheaper Plus less heat, more turbo cooling = better oil longevity and hence engine life

Thats the spirit Greekman Its always a compromise balncing performabnce and comfort and if needs must then roll with it. I have to leave with the embarasing squeal of my PF 01 race compund on my Ksport BBk everyday as it never ger up to temp on my 4mile oneway comute to work but on tyhe track it all makes sense. That said I would have gone for the Quaife ATB. ...quiet, life time warranty, no need to service and just as bloody good as the clutch type LSD like nismo. cusco etc for trackday or racing but if drifting is your thing then a 2 way is best

Thanks Clarkie and others here for the posts . I did my rear wiper delete last week after getting the grommet fro halfrauds and i don't miss it

On a £30K sports car, yes they are. Dan, you could'nt be more blunt Sometimes you must ask yourself why bother And then you remember the porker parked outside and all becomes really clear in your mind

Comparing £ to HP you think that cams are better than a lower collector? Lower collector is roughly £250? and cams are rougly 3x that amount - before labour naturally Also don't forget that the HKS kit comes with its own oil supply & oil cooler & I believe cookbot already has an engine oil cooler Stock brakes are ok on a road car IMO, my car held up just fine on stock disks & pads and cams are a bitch of a job as are headers. Stock headers are also pretty good, certainly good enough to flow 400+ hp & definitely well enough to justify keeping them over the cost of a 10 hour labour bill just for install alone - the only reason I did them was because of the retarded cheap deal I got on them Lower collectors are also not designed for the DE cars which is why Nurrish never used one Ian bod you are just voicing my same thinking mate The std engine setup will make good HP and torque with most SC kits and the money could be spent elsewhere. I know your zed was quick and ok on std brakes but compared to what i only had a measly 288WHP full bolt on tune but i can guarantee you that with almost fully adjustable suspension and a BBK i would have kept you zed in the dark on most tracks and only loose out to it on on straights or the drag strip. It all comes down to what you are prepared to spend. Just like i think the cossie plenum was too much £ for HP! but i know how you like to do things The MREV2 is not £250 BTW unless you modify a std DE one yourself but if you import the real MD one you will be close to £400 in the end. Cams will make more noticeable gains depending on what you want out of the car and TBH you can get them for about £700 if you do your homework on my350z. I just got a ported intake manifold and original MREV2 and some few other bits through my my network from my 350z for about £200 I hope to be offering an import service soon

Hi chippy and everyone who kindly showed interest in sorting out their bushes or pm'ed me wrt questions related to bushes; - I am glad to anounce that Horsham developments will officially be the approved Superpro stockist and distributor for the forum and will offer the 10% discount i was had negotiated for furom members. - Infact i will add that Horsham will not only supply any superpro bushes but also offer a competitive fitting service. - I also have to add that Jez at Horsham is offering a cheaper base price than Superpro than i could have got and when you include the 10% discount it is a win-win for all concerned - i will be getting my bushes tomorrow and will get them fitted over the weekend with a little guide for those who want to DIY as myself and i would also put in a little review and if i attend the west midlands meet on sunday give passender rides or the opprotunity for chaps to feel the diffence and report back. So for all Superpro bushing requirements head towards Horsham for your needs.

I don't think it will make a major difference Especially when you compare £s to HP ratio With FI you are increasing the charge air with compression and hence providing more than enough intercooled to all cylinders whereas in NA tune every little helps. Personally i would spend my money on oil cooling or brakes or handling or better still cams. To butress my point note that the non tuner vortech or HKS sc kits use the OEM configurations both intake and exhaust and make the claimed power consistently and safely. Even our Nurrish got circa 420 WHP on max aggro tune without plenum spacers or MREV2 AFAIK . These bits are more important for squeezing the last drop of hp out of NA setup and though i have had them before and got them now again, they donot justify the hp/£ ratio . However money no object i will go for every available option to get every HP and ensure reliability whever i could ie Cosworth, SSV, APS, SGS intake. But remember headers and exhaust will have to be uprated too if the intake is uprated if not you choke the engine.

what do you have Cal? i might be interested in some resontaed decats myself. pm me details and price

I have always been a fan of paint to wraps and this proves you can't beat a good paint job.

Pms replied to.

Here you go: 1-The front arm is the transverse link and the rear arm is the compression arm and this would be the bush that is faulty; this is common the case;) No 10 and 12 on the schematic below for both Rh and LH:) i have a put up a potential GB for uprated urethane bushes by Superpro to replace the OEM rubber type bush. see thread under suspension and also suspension tech thread Stick your name down Alex sells OEM type rubber bush which is the other option. Solid bushes are also available from Abbey or SPL directly but cost more 2-The ARB link is No. 19/21 and you can get this from Alex or Nissan or even JDM performance but if your car is lowered you want adjustable ones like Powergrid from Adam @z-1 or similar from Abbey or Whiteline.