GT4 Zed

Happy birthday Dazza! Don't drink to much!! I'm sending Melissa to cheer you up😎!!

Redline is good stuff so I don't think that's the issue. I take it you refitted the OEM VLSD and just swapped the FD. Start by putting it up a ramp and inspecting and hearing where the noise is coming from. Then drain oil to see if any metal bits. Next I would open it up and and check nothing is eating itself to death. Cheaper in long run. With the FD backlash is very important. Did you make sure this was within specs.

Do you really need 4doors because the E92 is lighter and looks better. I drove my mates fully modified car on the good A/B road in Cambridgeshire at full chat and was pleasantly surprised. It's very accomplished and I liked the DCT box a lot. He did 07:50-08:20 BTG nurburgring times with it consistently. However its difficult to say how good the standard car is with all the mods done on his car; AP BBK all round with pagid RS29s, coilovers, full titanium exhaust, decats, carbon fibre intake, revo remap (460bhp) and CF recaro buckets seats, fast road/track geo. I think it's a lot of car for the money and a good base to start modding.

If you are looking for the nismo sound, better quality and price then you have to get the Tanabe super medallion touring exhaust. The invidia gemini is slightly quieter but has the best flow as confirmed by mark @ abbey and the build quality is outstanding for the price. Its a steal!! If its too quiet then pair it with a decat pipe. Simples!

As said already you cannot achieve 380whp on a budget. It's plausibly achievable if you can do all the labour and get parts on the cheap brand new or used on a place like my350z.com but it will be a tall order. RJN Nissan (UK), Fontana Nissan (US) and SGP(Can) and 1 chap on my350 all have built NA cars with close and about 350-400whp but at great cost. Secondly of all that lot I'd only trust the result and reliability from RJN and Fontana. They both used 3.8l cosworth stroker kits, high compression to exploit race fuel, dry sump lubrication and serious head work with lightweight titanium valvetrain parts LTH and tuned exhaust amongst order things.. If you are doing a NA car for drifting or trackday only stick with the usual bolt-ons, Uprev and strip it as light as you can and save you money otherwise. Good luck if you do it.

I can't tell them everything can I? It will ruin the surprise😈

+10000 Still not a fan of that wing though👀

😜😜😜😜 Ok octet shall I tell them? The real zed shed will be doing a live forged engine build/install this summer! Before that there is the small matter of installing the first twin GTM supercharger on a 370z. And many other little projects in between! 😎

Nice work gents! Btw I've got an engine and some cakes......,,,are you guys thinking what I'm thinking?👀 Can't wait for sunny weather to arrive for this😎!

Hey Vlad, eBay is your friend. Got 40yellow caps for 2quid😜 Got tired of fancy ones getting nicked!

LOL! I like to share with others and with facts as I'm sure that though often underlooked an underperforming battery can make your life hell like it did mine for 1.5weeks until I had the time to sort it.

My halfords battery died on me lately and decided I was not getting a replacement under warranty as:- - it rubbish..lasted just over 2yrs - can't be asked to find the receipt Spec: AH 62 CCA 510 L235 W173 H225 Cost £95 pick up! Anyway I decided I'd get a quality battery and would fit the largest I can in the space available👀 so that I get the highest AH and CCA possible. In laymans terms: have the most juice in the battery to start the car no probs every time, support extra electrical stuff eg audiovisual, gauges etc and importantly able to run stuff while stationary with key in acc without fear of draining the battery quickly. I set off with my tape measure and ended up with L285 x W185 x H240mm being the max dimensions in the battery cubby on the passenger side. Next I did a search to see which top end battery will closely match the dimensions. The winner was the top of the line Bosch S5 0008 battery. Comes with 5 year warranty. Specs: AH 77 CCA 780 L 278 W 175 H 190 Fitted the battery easily and even retained the OEM securing gubbins. Car started instantaneously at the turn if the key and voltmeter shows a steady 12.5v key switched to on and 14.5v at idle. I'm very pleased. For comparison with OEM spec AH 65 CCA 550 (earlier cars came with 490) L235 W173 H 225 The S5 battery is £106 at ECP (thats with 15% discount 👀) I managed to get it through a mates trade account at a local motor factors for £80👠I can get 1 more if anyone needs a top battery. Delivery would be 7quid mainland UK unless you want to pick up or I drop it off if you happen to be in my route. Pics

Nice one Ryan👠so glad you got the car. I've been so busy with late finishes that I have got back to you on your last text. I'm in London this weekend and we try to make something happen! Welcome to the boosted club and soon we'll get you to 400+ whp club😎

I like the black eyebrows. Works surprisingly well. You zed looks ace overall and even better in flesh but I still think the BMW center aps should go😜

Sometimes I wonder why I help you out with all the ****-take I get from you🙀! I did ask you several times to get down to RTP and get the springs and spacers and send to the zed shed crew but you gave me the I am busy speech or I forgot line only to sell me out now😜😜

SOB, when you guys instal the midlink, wind the bucket all the way down and it will give you about 1.5" wheel to arch gap and you can make fine adjustments from there. It's a pain to adjust when it's on the car as it becomes loaded. Also apply grease generously to help turning. Make sure you unlock/lock the hex nut before and after adjusting. It's easy to miss. I can make it ill be at RTP before middayðŸ‘

You've got my support Wasso! Prove the doubters wrong👀😈

Pink😇🙀

Yes you will need Z specific rails to fit the seats. You can buy some universal bottom mounts and modify them as required which might even be cheaper (I take it its bottom mounted). Disconnect the looms under the seat and that's all. You will need to make an airbag resistor to cancel the airbag warning light and restore the rest of your airbags

How did you not notice🙀? The handling must have been appalling!!!

🙀🙀

Looking good SOB👠I see you have nick my idea of the neat grill mod provision for the front toe hook👀 I'll get the springs for the SPL mid links to you ASAP even though this weekend is looking bleak with my in laws illness! Just as asked before why did you sell the 340lph pump for a walbro 255? And also why the more expensive GTM RFS rather than CJM or AAM? Anyway you have terminal zeditis and I've given up understanding your rational. On a side note i maybe parting the 350 for something else!

Nice one mateðŸ‘

Ifabricate! That's the theory of it and everyone foes it this way but they still have stubborn airlock issues! The water galleries are very convoluted so the is always some air trapped witching the system. The devise Dblock posted up works quite well and I could find it in the UK a while back. My method works and serves me well for years now. I have considered a breather tank but can't find the space to put it as this is the ultimate way to get an airless coolant system. So I don't see your point when its obvious that the SOP does not always work.

Would have really loved to come especially after resetting my LSD to get a direct comparison since I drove it on the other configuration here. However not enough time now to get my suspension set up, new front MPS 2 and meet other commitments for this weekend. Hope to see you guys race your Beemer and share a race track with you guys soon👠Enjoy and hopefully the weather holds.