GT4 Zed

Depending on how cheap and quick is postage from South Africa to US I would strongly recommend you send the blower to vortech for a rebuild. It's cheap and you get proven parts. It takes about a 3week turn around but its better than putting seals or bearings that are not up to the job and bring you back to square one. For what it's worth vortech will not sell bearings or seals or any rebuild parts. Supercharger rebuilds.com claim to have superdupper bearings and seals but reviews suggest its bunkum! 928 Motorsports have mixed reviews. But if you decide to rebuild your self go with 928 Motorsports. They sell upgrade bearings, seals, impeller and impeller shaft depending on application. I bought seals from them to replace my rear shaft seal which is weeping and a common vortech problem. Does not affect the operation of the head unit but just annoying. I'm yet to replace it but its a very easy and dies it require me to open the unit. There a numerous DIY videos on YouTube to rebuild the vortech head unit. Vortech can also upgrade your SC head unit to upgrade impeller, HD race gears and bearings where possible and works out cheaper or they can give you cash back for your old unit against an upgrade. I have a V2 T trim HD head-unit and considering upgrade to a new Ti trim unit or cash credit for a new v2 Ti trim or v7 YSi trim unit but I need to sort out my engine rebuild completely first. Good luck with which ever path you take.

Not something you'd get here easily as true rear coilover set ups are not common. Ask the traders or get it from US directly or via eBay or combine order from the US with someone to reduce costs especially if you are going for a good brand like SPL. I will be getting some from the states but that's for the end of march. Pm if interested.

You maybe ok but depends how the HFC "tunes" the Miltek. Use a DB app or the suggestion Dan gave. I got flagged at Bedford several times at Bedford. Just lifted off subsequently. My setup was DC headers, ART decat pipes, Miltek CBE and then most recently Invidia Gemini. Both setups passed static at 94db. I'm also supercharged😜 TBH my zorst is quieter than many NA set up on here and definately a whisper compared to my k1 and header setup😖😖 I suspect the ART pipes has got everything to do with it.

Spacers and boot mat SOLD

Nice work shrek and co👠Can't wait for start up😉

Sale pending on few items but cash is king unless I've agreed to hold. However first refusal goes with the time of pm. Payment by PayPal or BACS.

All PMs replied.

Hey papa blue, looks the business sir😎 Just need to finish it off with a nice little snail tucked into the engine bay

Final garage clearout of parts. All in very good working condition. Pickup from Worcester otherwise all prices are including delivery UK mainland. Offers considered or swaps. - OEM black sideskirts x2 £65. Has scratches from storage. No damage otherwise. - OEM plastic passenger side wiper washer bottle. £15 - OEM fuel rail with damper and OEM fuel main feed line with damper £50 - OEM injectors in vgc with o-rings £45 - OEM rear wipers and motor with fittings x2 sets £25 each - OEM header gasket £15 - OEM pax side carpet mat x1. Both in vgc and no wear. £25 del - OEM THICK pile boot carpet. SOLD Also have other OEM stuff free if wanted but you cover postage. Just a few off the top of my head: - DE Headers and sheilds - Rear exhaust heat sheilds - Revup OEM engine intake manifold - Revup OEM lower revup plenum

Hey Ian when did you drop it like that. Me likey😎. Shows how long I last saw your zed. ET -30 + 20mm spacer = ET -10. You were supposed to be good at maths🙀

Design primarily. I also have reservations about the brand. Most like these just make a generic damper for all their products and throw over some springs without any R&D. The end user gets a product that is not car specific and sometimes also very poor materials are used so these are failure prone. You might argue that for the price it's worth a go but have had a suspension failure at high speed? I have and was lucky and learnt my lesson that there are somethings that you can afford to cheap out on.

Good luck mate. Hope you find the cause for this issue. I've got a full set off OEM injectors in vgc if you need them. Just be meticulous and check all systems 1 at a time.

No it wasn't SS zip ties but your fetish for Teflon tape :lol:

Hey Dazza, Are you sure that zip tie is petrol resistant🙀? I hope if not you will have to go in there again at some point. I would have used SS zip tie to be sure.

Was trying to see what this kit reminded me of and just came back to me; the gumpert Apollo super car. See how the right grill and paint transforms this car that polarises opinions in equal measure.

Wouldn't touch these which a badge pole😈 The advantage in weight saving by going true rear coilovers will only come into play if you replace the spring bucket with extended toe arms like SPL makes. However even if you do this it does offer a handling advantage over the OEM separate inboard spring setup which offers very good rear end compliance and traction over a true coilover setup. Secondly the rear turret is not designed to carry both loads so to be safe it requires reinforcement to prevent failure especially when using high spring rates.

There's no free lunch mate. Eg A good setup for handling twisties will increase tyre wear. Stick with the factory setup and you would have the best compromise. Aim to be in the upper ranges of OEM ranges if you can Front: Toe 0deg.00min though bit of toe out will even be better. Eg 0.05 Camber would be more negative than max OEM( 1deg20min)= good. However you can't adjust this anyway unless you have an adjustable arm Caster would be positive than max OEM(8deg.55min) = good. You can adjust it anyway unless you got an adjustable arm. Rear: Toe in 0deg.06min Camber negative 2deg.05min Since you are lowered do you have adjustable droplinks? Often forgotten but very important as you could preload your anti toll bars and worsen the roll. Most people counter this with stiffer damping with even makes your handling worse. So check the ARBs have no preload. Hope it helps.

Oh dear!!! How did I miss this? Where do I start🙀? Very bold! Certainly "A" for effort. And as the OP said its still a work in progress. I think with the right sized wheels and offset and the grills blacked out it would look better as someone already mentioned. We can't all have the same taste so I appreciate what the OP is trying to achieve. Don't get scared off mate! Stick around and the forum would be only richer for having you.

+10000000

There is no single fix all solution to get a car to handle like a dream but improvements and compromises in various areas until you achieve your goal. The more adjustability you have the better as any change in one area affects another. Beware of cheap parts as they will fail and you will spend more in the long run. The other thing is that perceived handling is very subjective so take generalised advice with some reservation or make smaller informed changes at a time. With regards to your current issue of body roll you can reduce this by stiffening the ARB on one or both axles, reducing the COG or increasing the damper stiffness. So it may mean you have to get adjustable Eibach ARBs and coilovers. But its not so straight fowards as changing all those will mean you also need to correct camber and toe parts etc and this does not guarantee good handling if they and not set correctly. However before you buy these, I find that the OEM ARB is not too bad for just daily use and fast road use. The first thing to change will be the ARB bushes with Superpro bushes as with time the rubber OEM ARB bushes which are very soft anyway wear down and give the OEM bush too much unwanted movement at the chassis fulcrum points and that reduces its effectiveness = more roll/wallow. Secondly. if your car is pre 2005 GT4 era you can upgrade your front ARB to the GT4 or 2006 onwards as Nissan increased stiffness by 17%. It's way cheaper than a new set of Eibach ARBs you may not need for your purposes. Many people here only require little changes to the suspension to make the car perfect for usage type but end up spending loads and end up with a car that is not better handling because of lack of cohesiveness. The factory dampers are also durable and tuned for our roads so unless you want a trackday car stick with it and lower the car on good quality springs to reduce the COG and minimal compromise on ride quality. Eibach springs or Tein would get your there and you will be able to set the geo within specs without buying more stuff. Secondly not all coilovers are equal and a cheap investment now that fails or rust to bits in x amour of time will set you back or put you at risk. This little changes together with your MPSS, rubber, a good fast road alignment, brakes upgrade will get your smiles back and if you are not happy then make the next change from there eg Eibach ARB, coilovers etc but remember stiffer may also reduce grip, ride quality and compliance. The beauty of this is you can dIY these changes yourself, it's cheap, and you would sell the spring to move forwards. In anycase you are at the right place with Abbey and they can help you.

Looks like you can go both ways for that power goal. The engine will be ok with 400whp and under 400lbft torque. The turbo will make more torque. They both will require the same kind of supporting mods. Since is just show and fast road driving I'll go SC as its simpler to install. Me and the lads have done a few now so we can help.

Nice work guys. It's likely that a cheap aftermarket gasket led to that engine dying but did you guys check to studs where all torqued to spec and cause it to lift? Just wondering because most of the gaskets should be fine for NA.

Pros and cons for both but either way expensive. What are your power/torque goals? What do you plan to use the car for? Are you planning to keep the engine stock or rebuilding with forged parts? I went supercharged to mirror the std cars torque and power curve for easy track and fast road driving. Also the SC makes less heat so easier on the engine and cooler AITs eventhough you can mitigate this by getting a midmount or rear mounted turbo kit. In anycase do your research well on here and US forums and decide which suits your needs and budget👀 Also what year is your car as it limits your choices of kits😉

fellow GT4 owner. Slipping clutch mate as already covered. Should be covered by consumer act as though it is a wear and tear item it should be reasonably fit for purpose for a nominal period after purchase. So unless you have put on crazy miles since you bought in within the week or have been driving only sideways everywhere you better get back to the dealer to get it repaired. If they say no just calmly return the car. No need to invoke warranty. If the decide to fix it FOC as they should used the opportunity to get an uprated clutch and single mass flywheel. Traders here will help with sourcing. This option is cheaper than going to Nissan for OEM stuff so the dealer should thank you.

Sorry to her this news Matt. Wish your zed a speedy recovery even stronger and faster👠It's a good thing you are not too far from the zed shed crew😎