GT4 Zed

Nice but Andy. It's awesome car. Get some pics up mate. Drove one a long time ago but gingerly but felt solid and handled well. I've diced with a few on track but not really sure of the other drivers commitment or maybe I'm underestimating my zed😉 Good to see you in Wales.

Use a courier with a drop off point or office. They are usually open after 1700.

Ah yes my manðŸ‘. Issue: Cracking std brass oil feed nozzle for engine oil fed supercharger head unit. I don't know if it was Sam mcgoo that crack but certainly loads of threads in US of this issue. Background: This is only required for V 1 , V2 and V7 as these are the types that fit the 350z kit. Most of us here have the V2 or V3. V3 is self lubricated with its own oil supply. My V2 T trim kit came with the brass upgrade from vortech as standard because the T Trim is HD. But the SC trim will have the brass nozzle. If it crack within the headunit you are in @*!# as you will have to drill it out and hope not to cause damage. Solution: Get the SS nozzle from Vortech or any vortech trader. Pics: Std brass SS nozzle: Complete oil feed kit. I also replaced the brass T fitting which tees into oil sender and the engine. Do no weak points don't have pics but you just need to get a T price with the correct threads to match the brass peice.

Herewith link to vortech supercharger maintenance and care. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/images/93.pdf

Nice one lexx. You are the man. Subscribed and posted already😇

Issue: Failed smooth idler pulley bearing Background: probably the result of over thightenning the serpentine belt. It had been increasingly noise for sometime and then I noticed a rusty dust on the mounting plate coming from it and at this point ordered new idler pulleys from vortech. It survived the track days and only last week started to fail badly. The noise was louder screeching then looking at the belt idling you could see the idler wobbling and spitting metal bits and at this point I had to swap it. Solution: new idler from Vortech. I got three since the are three smooth pulleys on the Revup. I checked the rest and the were fine. Pics: Didn't take a pic when it was spitting rust dust and metal shavings but its the smooth pulley on the left. Mashed up bearing. You could probably get these beading replaced if you know the part number but I could be bothered with the hassle. Replaced close up Voila. Changed serpentine belt to the strongest grippiest belt Gates makes at the same time. More to that later

To keep it tidy use the format below to make your report. Issue: Background: Solution: Pics:

Now that there is a growing number of Vortech owners here I feel we should have a thread to post up any reliability issues and solutions encountered and and technical mods that you have done to improve the vortech's reliability and performance. I hope as it grows the mods may give it its own section to make it easy to find. I'll be SC'ed now for a year and though under 5k miles I've driven the car hard and completed 2 trackdays at Bedford autodrome GT circuit so its a good measure so far of the durability of the kit.

Chris you are such a tease!!!! Anyway you are swapping your V2 SC heady it for a V3? Why is that? It's not a logical move since the V2 is a better blower from a purist point of view. And if you V2 had the HD gears is definitely better since the V3 only comes with std. Even vortech literature suggest getting an engine oil fed blower for heavy or high power use like race/ drag or tracking.

Whoa!!!! Uncle keyser what's going on🙀. You must be up to something. I smell a turbo or upgrade supercharger kit in the air because you have made no mention of selling the zed. GLWTS.

Watched all the previous series/ episodes. Just waiting for the new series to start. I was similarly hooked with Spartacus😇

Awesome. I love GOT and this is actually on the money. I thought the new season began next month ...... I'll be damned if it started already :rant:

Less economy and slight power sapping due to more drag/friction but its minimal really to matter.

Finally James you have come good with this. Set the damping in the middle for both axles and the se with the ARBs and go from there. I have settle with medium in front and soft at the rear for ARBs but depending on weather conditions I adjust my damping to suit namely to reduce understeer in the wet. You would have to find what works for you as our setups are different. I have a fully bushed and adjustable suspension and yet to brace it, so it would be interesting. Make small adjustment per area per time so as to know what affects what before making changes. Record them too and drive on a setting for a while in different roads and conditions first.

Nice job Will 👠I can see bumblebee getting very friendly with Rosie derrière in Wales 🙀😎😄

So much like!

Looking good mate. Not keen on the number plate obstructing the rad/ PAS cooler and AC condenser. Sorry but I'm always thing performance above style. A vinyl plate on the area above where the badge used to be wouldn't be so bad or even a jap style plate on the side.

If it bugging you that much just use 10w 40 fully synthetic oil and it should go away. Just make sure you get the oil up to temp before canning the car especially in very cold weather. Or just ignore the noise.

Updated with pics.

If the pedal doesn't flick back it means you've gone too low. Back in the nut one thread at a time and drive the car to appreciate the change. It can be deceptive just static testing the clutch. I had a different problem with unpleasant gear changes after fitting a HD aftermarket clutch and SMF and found out lift the cluch pedal up got rid of the issue. I have only 1 thread showing and might even take it down fllush to get rid of a very tiny crunch I sometimes get on aggressive down shifts. Recap: more thread out = pedal up, firmer pedal and wider clutch engagement range More thread in = pedal down, softer pedal and smaller engagement range.

Happy birthday dude🎂ðŸ¸ðŸŽ You don't need an invitation for 🚬ðŸ»ðŸ»! So enjoy your special day 😎

Like I said before I would not trust any of these super duper bearings or upgrade parts from any other than vortech or to some degree 928 Motorsports. I have spoken to Carl the owner there before and he will tell you that the bearings supplied by vortech are the best fir thirse class of blowers and that's what they(928)supply themselves. Their seals seem to be better than vortech's as its twin-lipped so less likely to weep. However all seals fail so its not a biggie wherever you buy it and its an easy fix DIY. I bought this and yet to fit it. The 928 impeller upgrade on the V2 S trim is proven to make more power than the vortechs and its rated to 60krpm but that's a moot point as the bearings for these class blowers that fit the Z are all between 53-55k If you want a blower with bearing that can go beyond 60k then you need to swap your unit to a V7 YSi with will need to be clearance but doable and has been done before. This blower is a monster HD race rated to 65k. Otherwise the V2 T trim blower like I have is rated to 55k. Other than this I think bringing your blower to the UK and sending it to vortech is the best either cashback or with/without upgrade. Simple vorteck inspection/ refresh is in the order of $300 while a full rebuild is $700 excl postage.

One set of toe bolts pending. New stuff to be added when I take pics. - - TEIN HD inner and out tie rods. (Pair) Upgrade your rusted seized OEM tie rods or for drifting or track driving where you can adjust for wider steering angle £175 - extra set of Eibach toe bolts £20 - various under car and radiator trims. Free.

Ok for that R34 you are forgiven to try and leave the fold. That car is stunning and reminds me sorely of the one that got away😔 GLWTS mate

You're not alone Ian. I can't wait to swap my engine and paint everything on sight in the bay