GT4 Zed

:lol:

Ian why font you send me that ECU from you car anyway. You don't need it anymore😳

Thanks guys for the feedback. @Will, Ian what are you guys hiding from me? @ Ryan I did think of 335 oil burner but I hate the rattle on start up and really I do under 6k miles per year which will be split between two cars now! @N4eay: yes its SJ but never heard bad about them and just about 3months ago I bought an M3 E46 for a friend from them and the car checked out. Anyway thanks for the advice. I've ran a fine tooth over the car and will hand it to my local race shop who specialise in BMW to go over it and if anything is out of joint I'm off! In his defence they are very small and specialist and it's not a new ploy that traders try to get cars cheap hiding as personal buyers. Wrt previous owns that info is on the V11 or DVLA data base and check will reveal this. I go over to M3 cutter as it looks like I would be joining there too.

Thanks for chipping GM. EDFC is a DIY unless you want to pay someone to do it for you. Let me know if you want it. I highly recommend the TEINs and I'll get the competition ones if this sell. The KWs v3 have the best build quality and more street than track so TEINs feel slightly harsher but it's really comparing apples to pears as the KW clubsport is the Tein monoflex equivalent and its not built to the same high quality finish as the V1-3 and I suspect it would be harsher too.

I've just put a deposit on this puppy and everything being equal I should pick it up in just over 2 weeks when I can go and pick it up myself. I hope I don't change my mind. Audi RS4 saloon or avant are also tempting but I'm not so sure after I gave one a terrible beat down on a private road but four doors is appealing. Already been to see it and test drive this V8 amongst others extensively but I really want it spotless so its have a full in and out detail and change of front rubber to MPSS to match the rear. It's 2008 with only 44k on the clock and FBMWSH. As expected its a manual with full optional extra including EDC. I do not want to pay extra for the DCT gearbox. I've promised I will not modify it 1 bit. I was surprised how "quiet", "soft" and "slow" it was but I guess it would be when benchmarking it against my sc'd and track ready zed but I'll learn to love it and just enjoy wafting in decent power with no modified car drawbacks! I just need to be sure black is the best colour. I been to see a yellow, then red and white one before settling for the black on black. Has anybody here had one of these? Any things to look out for. I've trawled the inter web and covered the common stuff but just in case please divulge. Some pics:

Looking for OEM Revup ECU for short loan. I need this to facilitate a swap of my complete supercharger set up and to minimise downtime for both of us. I'll cover postage and beer money your way )

Got a passenger side mat in very good condition. No wear.

🙀🙀 Shame the bitch is going and hope it goes to a good home but I suspect it maybe hard to sell despite the price due to being so individual. GLWTS But I think the vultures vultures are circling already for the big part out👀 Shameless dibs on the GT spec braces😈. Been on the cards for a long time but shipping has been the hiccup😖

The girl has done good👠Never thought that engine will survive this long🙀

-The plastics are necessary if not Nissan would not have put them but you can live without them. - the smaller screws are part of the rear stay assembly. These rust very badly and you could drill out the bolts and rust blast then powdercoat if still solid or get new ones. Rear stay assy I'm sure zmanalex or Clark motosports will carry this. - the ultra race such do the same job but no telling if its better rust proofed than OEM.

The oil feed is the main difference but you also need to decide what Trim as this is also very important and determines the type of bearings, gear set, max rpm, impeller efficiency and ultimately power output. For the 350z these sc that will fit the std brackets V2 SC (discontinued): std bearing 52krpm V3 SCi = V2 SCi = std bearing 53krpm/improved cast impellers rom sc V2 Si = std bearing 53rpm/more efficient cast impeller V2 T = HD bearing 55krpm/cast impeller V1 T = HD bearing but bigger straight cut gears so stronger but noisier than the V2 >V3 V2 Ti (new) = HD bearing 55rpm/ more efficient billet impeller V1 Ti : as above V7 YSi = HD race bearing 65krpm/ cast impeller V7 YSi (new)= HD race bearing 65krpm/ billet impeller Personally I favour the V2 as it offers superior cooling but others prefer the simplicity of the self lubricated V3. But if you factor in the recommended sc oil changes it's not so simple or cheap. I have the V2 T trim which I've just sold for the new V7 YSi.

Will it be quicker than a GTR? In a straight line once rolling it should be My 370 was Should depend on the road conditions still and the state of tune of the GTR I would think. What happened to the GTR manifold. I think it would have been ideal for this build. I sure if you took it to a machinist he can knock out an adaptor plate to make it fit.

Dazza you are my hero! First dibs when you want rid of it😇😇😜 I need to come a see this sometime.

Teins are still available but I'm not splitting the EDFC unless I get seperate request so keep it coming.

Vlad man it would have to be a lot of Mars bars as the HSDs is a rust magnet and very underdamped with primitive valving compared to the KW so no thanks😜😜😜 Congratulations on finalising your sc👠KW SOLD🎉

🙀🙀 don't do it!!

AwesomeðŸ‘

Decided to put everything out together as I was having inquiries about this being half a kit though I did state the rears where in the box👀 here you go in all "shinnyness"

+1000

Steady steady boys😈

Did quick read and its wasn't clear. End plates strakes have never been called brackets before so thought he was talking about something else👀 Anyway that clears it up.😇

Are you still looking for a subject? Send me some details about the harness and the deal.

Nice and even nicer pricing but I'm surprised that for a 3D wing it does not have end plates.

Why did you cut me off🙀😜😜. Send me the full pic please.

Had my B&M shifter snap in exactly the same circumstances. I had the Tegiwa extension on it. I agree it's the lever arm that's fatigued the metal at the weak spot which if the transition between the geartsick and knob extension. I plan to weld a thick sleeve around it as I miss my short shifter.