GT4 Zed

Any upgrade on the zed is worth it! It all comes down to what your goals are and importantly your pocket. Otherwise is very hard to respond to this blanket questions. I for one have done full NA bolt-ons to sc and along the way full suspension and brake upgrade. I've recently sold my supercharger as I'm getting a bigger one but despite the loss of almost 200whp my zed still gives me goose bumps because of how incredible it handles and brakes. This is event more apparent now that I have the M3 V8 as a benchmark to compare. With what I know now and if I was never going FI this will be my mods for fast road/trackday in no particular order. - d1 throttle controller - uprated airfilter with Revup box - SS brake hoses and dot 5.1 fluid - uprated pads eg PF or pagids - full urethane bushes all round -adjustable ARBs and DL -adjustable camber/toe arms - ultra high performance tyres(2+ sizes) on Rays - good lowering springs or high end coilovers. (Cheap coilovers are not better than OEM dampers with high end lowering springs.) - SS clutch line and 5.1 fluid - SMF and LW clutch - shed weight wherever you can - decats/y pipe if you need more noise but not as I type exhaust. After all this lot then I will consider Uprev remap for which you need atleast: - decat/HFC -y pipe or full cat back exhaust It's not cheap and that not looking at cosmetic enhancements👀 You really need to plan what you want or leave the car as is, slap some cosmetic personal touches and enjoy it.

Bump! No firm offers yet! But to make everything clear herewith the prices. I'm only asking for £200 or £250 depending on if you send your lower front arms or not for swap. For the rears I want £500 for subframe, diff and both upper and lower control arm with bushes depending on your rear setup. £400 if you swap. I can get fitting done by my experienced mechanic for £200. Even better £275 for Both front and rear. To be honest swapping the rear will be challenging as we need 2 ramps simultaneously on less you send your rear parts to me first. Just buying my parts outright is the best option especially if you take advantage of cheap fitting cost. Obviously there will be a small discount if the same person gets both parts. This is an opportunity not to be missed to get your zed handling like nothing you've experienced before. As incentive I will throw in a Stillen engine damper FOC and possibly an uprated gear box mount if I get my solid mount in time I will also replace any damaged bushes in the unlikely event of any. The last inspection revealed no issues. I'll let this run for 2 more weeks after which I'll just regretfully destroy all the urethane bushes and fit the SPL rose jointed bushes.

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+1. But using ali nuts on steel bolts is always asking for trouble. I have had muteki extended open end nuts for 5yrs with no probs.

Nice work GM! Very tidy and smart liking zed. Very creative with the wrench mod. Keep the pics comingðŸ‘

👀 try to read what the op wants😉

Congrat ol' chapðŸ‘

Since nobody is saying; my weekend will be with Amyzed on a drive down the coast south of France. Swimming, partying, gambling, fine dining, clubbing and driving two amazing zeds. Don't mind if Carl came along because she's cool and it will definitely score me points to pull a local blonde with long legs 😎 Otherwise it's a weekend with zmanalex. Talking/fettling cars, beers and knock hill come to mind and when he's not looking raid his parts bin for anything I don't have yet.ðŸ‘

Guys go for this! I have a 2 way on my car for over a year now and one of the best non power mods I had. Just to be clear the usual advice is 1.5 way for a daily car with light track action and 2way for full track or drift. But I spoke directly to the manufacturer and the 2way is the best all round for any use and you can make it work for daily use by set the locking at 60%. I have driven on both 100% and 60% setup and its night and day. With the correctly oil you can hardly tell there is a plated diff on. Grip and power delivery is awesome and you definitely want to take advantage of this with good tyres and susoension. Wrt temps it's not an issue unless if you are in a race series. If you do 10-20 laps sessions in most UK tracks or 5-10 laps at the ring as I do it's fine. I don't have a diff cooler but I suspect this might change running semi slick or slick tyres as they generate more grip=heat. Finally be prepared to oil service the diff often to keep it in best condition. I change my oil every sub 5k and also found out mineral oil is best. Don't be tempted to go with thicker oil is will just create more heat. Most diff use 75w90 so stick with that. I use motul 90PA. Let the games begin.👠@wasso: with that torque you will get from the LSx you will need this biiishðŸ˜ðŸ˜Ž

Subscribed👠It would be interesting to see how this turns out as I m planning my striping now. More progress pics Mark👀

+1 on what Adrian said but even a stage o will do with decent injectors like the injector dynamics 725cc or 1000cc assuming your goal is for under 550whp.

Do you mean remove A and replace with OEM and put A where the spring bucket arm is? Not sure it would work as the inner and out pickup points maybe different widths but it's wotrh a try. Secondly it may not be long enough, have enough range of adjustment and posdibky no strong enough. If I was you I would do the right thing first time or risk bigger damage when it fails.

Ok. The pics makes it all clear. A- is an aftermarket adjustable traction arm. Some people try to use this to adjust to but it's wrong. It's to dial out bumpsteer. I recommend setting it to stock length first and adjust in or out to reduce bumpsteer at the rear. B- aftermarket adjustable camber arm. Self explicit. Wind in or out to increase or decrease camber. I recommend you get rid of the eccentric cam bolt and washer and replace with lockout plates and bolt to banish any slip in you camber arm which will change your geo. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4155 C- OEM spring bucket arm which adjust for toe via eccentric bolt/washer. Very small range as you have found out. You need a tie arm delete as you don't need the bucket anymore. There are many brands out there selling these but I recommend SPL strongly. They also have the widest range I know of. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3361 If you wanted to keep the spring bucket and still have adjustability then SPL provides this which I have. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4148 Pics to explain what you will end up with. Note the use of the lockout kit in both camber and toe arms to subframe pick up. If you are keen eyed you will also notice he has a GT spec rear brace. If you need just a set of the SPL from the states I can help otherwise see the traders or get it yourself.

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Hi there, I take it you are trying for hellaflush or stance or whatever they call it this days as -4 degree of rear camber is just nuts and can't be good for handling. Not even real race cars run this. Anyway I'm not here to judge but first of there is no caster arm in the rear suspension. There are 3 lower control arms - the front traction arm which is not adjustable. You can get aftermarket adjustable arms which enables you to dial out bump steer. -the middle camber arm which adjust with the eccentric cam bolts on the subframe. You can get aftermarket arms but afaik only the SPL can get anywhere near 4 degrees! - the rear spring bucket arm which adjusts toe via eccentric cam bolts on the sunframe. You can get aftermarket arms without the spring bucket if you have a true rear coilover or airbags like yourself. Tbh you don't need alot of toe so aftermarket arms are purely for weight saving. With that out of the way it will help to state what you have, brand and I can advice how you can achieve the setup you want. Also clarify what you are calling caster arms. Finally how low are you now? Hope it helps.

Worcester. Pm your details and contact if you want to take this further.

If I get the OEM translink arm and or compression arm I can turn it around in a few days to under 1 week depending on work shifts. If you want the complete rear too we can do this on a Saturday. I can get mine stripped on the Friday and so its a straight swap for you and I can later fit your OEM parts after pressing in the SPL bushes. Where are you based?

So when you drive it on the road it will hop over the bumps, smell when you open the window, make a drone when you accelerate & scrap over speed bumps, sounds more like a track car than a road car I hate you

What surprise Col!!!! But needs must so it's totally understandable. I see an infinity G37 in the future. It's everything Nissan plus enough seats and power. I'm enjoying the M3 V8 which I would recommend of course if 2doors is acceptable for your needs. Goodluck with whatever choice and please don't disappear on us.

Horrible driving!!! And to think he got away with it! I was black flagged last time in Bedford about 2 months ago for noise!!! A mere 5db over. I later on have found I had a large exhaust leak where the hanger in the midsection had broken off taking a huge part of the exhaust with it. He ought to be bannedðŸ‘

As per my previous threads I have a fully bushed zed with Superpro and energy suspension urethane bushes where applicable and these transform the zed's handling immensely as you reduce the unwanted compliance from the OEM rubber bushes. My zed is soon getting stripped for track only duties and hence I'm taking the suspension to the ultimate level: full rose jointed SPL race bushes all round. It would be a shame to press out the superpro bushes in vgc to get these on! I will be prepared to swap and some cash my way anyone who can send me their OEM arm/suspension parts in good working order and I will send them back the the same with urethane bushes in-situ. All you just need is to refit and off you go. You will be saving on cost of the bushing and labour to hydraulically press the bushes. I'm starting with the front first as it's easier and I got a spare compression arm set which I've pressed the SPL arms onto. So for sale/swap in have - a set of OEM compression arms with Superpro bushes in VGC. I need: - a set of front lower control arm(translink) to swap for my mine already Superpro bushed. Both outer bush and shock bushes. If you get both arms as a set I will pass a decent discount. Keep eyes out for the rear parts including the subframe all bushed up. Because of the size of the rear parts I will be selling parts as a swap will be complicated onless you want to arrange to come down to Worcester and we swap sametime. I can guarantee cheap labour and save you over 50% of the cost of doing this from scratch. Some pics and links. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/46230-fitting-superpro-bushes-with-reviews-pics/page__fromsearch__1 Front compression arm Front lower control arm(translink) with Superpro. After pressing the SPL solid rose jointedbush on the compression arms. All the SPL bushes that will go on the car. Mods please before you say there are no dated pics and block this post appreciate that these parts are under the car and you cannot just take it out for a piccie hence I've put up as much evidence as possible.

First upgrade😉.

Don't be pessimistic Dazza👀 I'm just getting brake pads upgrade, SS lines/dot 5.1 fluids, spacer, springs, decat/filter and a front lip. A remap should get the whole thing purring like a kitten. I would can this modifying but std upgrades on any car to get the best visual, aural and performance out of the car for little money. And BTW what di you mean by ruined road cars! My zed is not ruined! It's the perfect fast road track car and very soon track only car. The v8 will remain a road car always.

10w40 is the wrong oil for our climate👀 though you can use it. 5w30 or 40 is all you need. Read up Opie or speak to oilman.

Nissan stuff is good enough! But I have used motul, gulf competition and redline MT90( recommended by oilman; and I concur is the best of the three in terms of smooth operation of the gb) Diff: motul or gulf. Engine: any fully synthetic 5w30 or 5w40 will do. I now use gulf as motul is bloody pricey now! The key is regular changes and mechanical sympathy.( good warm up and cool down) I change every fluid including brakes and clutch yearly and engine oil between 4-6k. It maybe excessive for a std spec/ driven car but it's gives you the freshest lubricant every time.