GT4 Zed

Is it the super Q you got? Not that it matter much in terms of performance and judging by mine the ats clutch fourth have shown no wear at all afterthinking third change of oil. You will enjoy it and wonder why this is not the first mod to start with if you want to get the car to put that power down. Make sure you use a mineral based lsd oil. (Synthetic oil does not work on these plate diffs.) Motul PA 90 is magic and quietens the diff while letting it do its job. Kaaz, Cusco or nismo oil are all mineral and 75W90. It's also cheap and under 20quid for 2l. You only need 1.4l though I raise the rear of the car and get the full 2 litres in! I'm setup up for 2way with 60% lock and it's ok even for DD. It's smooth both on acel and decel but as the oil degrades the transition can be notchy. I find you need an oil change by 3k miles. If I had 1.5way I'll go for 80% locking with the 265/295 tyres I'm using but for std size road tyres I'll recommend 60% unless you would be using R888 or similar. EnjoyðŸ‘

Keep your head down Dazza and finish your car LOL!!

No worries ChrisðŸ‘

Ok bud👠I bet you you will not like it😳

Hey humpy, it will look ace. Always like the kit. I want the side skirts only but Chris never bother to reply my question. Will be waiting in earnest to see how you car turns out. Ps are you going to be selling you TS sideskirts? Dibs. I managed to finish off my chargespeed in the garage while completing my solid bushes install on staturday. Need something to hide me through until I can get hold of a do-luck skirt.

A Concorde pilot will be flummoxed at the sight of you dash🙀 Hahahahaha. Nice job.

Disagree.

What's the going average rate to wrap a zed now? There a. Omp any in local worceter doing a wrap for £500😳 I saw their work on a bmw 320d and it was great. Don't know what type of wrap they used but the finish is good. Was Matt blue and suited the Beemer well.

Did you miss the £120 above the pic? 👀

Ah I see👠you are a thrill junkie! Can't compare to a zed really as they are different cars and my zed is highly modified to out handle and out brake almost all std road cars and with more power to boot. But as a std road car the V8 is very accomplished. More spacious than the E46, more refined, practical and quick enough and likes revs to get the best out of that glorious engine The handling is better than most cars but understeers in the wet and if you push it hard oversteers easily. Dry grip is much better and the electronic diff is so smooth and competent. The car still has the probably original MPS 2 which still have about 4mm of thread but they are too old. The EDC and M button are a nice touch and gives the car two personalities. Drawbacks: small tank, too soft for my liking and std pads will wilt under heavy use. I think a tweak on the geometry and harder springs, good pads and MPSS rubber will sort it but I really don't want to go further than that. The zed is my baby and is in the garage while the M3 is park in communal parking. I had the E30 M3, E36 328ci, E46 SMG 1 and the alpina B3.3 convertible in my BM history and the V8 had moved the game fowards a lot.

No it's not but doesn't require hours but minutes should do it. The key step is to discharge the ECU capacitors. So after a few minutes of disconnecting the earth, you depress the brakes fully a few times, this discharges the capacitors then reconnect the battery earth and the ECU will reset and cancelled any emission related EML if it's a transient fault. Wrt decats it will come back. The solution is to get the O2 sensor foolers. Zmanalex has this in stock ready to go!

Drool drool and jaw drop. I want one of these now officially! Looking forwards to the resto! Like the headlight covers by the way.

Nice mateðŸ‘ðŸ‘. Since you mentioned is there any reason you were tempted to turn off TC? I hardly need to do it and it really interrupts. Over the years I've found out that if you are smooth and the car is set up properly and has good mechanical grip then TC leaves you alone. If conditions are poor or your inputs are heavy then TC chimes in and actually it's your friend. However if you were not grip driving then it should be off to allow full play😎. NB I would agree with better pads and possibly bigger front brakes at least. Braided lines and RBF Oil cooler Get more adjustability to the suspect ion for a more track spec geo Weight loss Roll cage Reinforce that rear subframe. I'm surprised you went with the SMG instead of the MT for track. Don't get me ring it's fun and keeps you focused on other tasks but the reliability is an issue. Reason I got the MT M3 V8. I'm local to a BMW race specialist and they are very competitively priced. Pm if you need details

I don't think it will be different from the std Nissan stuff. What do you mean by better? Have you had problems with the OEM fluid? Even the GTR comes with mushy rubber brake lines as it's sold as a road car. The std DOT 4 fluid is adequate unless you plan heavy track use. Do you have braided lines? Uprated or race pads? If not you will never see the temps to boil you fluid. In anycase there is no reason you cannot order aftermarket racing brake fluid eg motul RBF 600/660from any of the traders here and it doesn't make it for Tuesday for a small fee. Have you also checked with ECP?

Coolio Andy😎

Western MT is ok but expensive. There are many other similar services that are cheaper and also reliable just need to shop around. If it was transfering from UK outwards I could have given some suggestions. Why not paypal to you?

Happy b day bud🎂

If you are going to change the FD I'll rather changed the lsd to Quaife ATB or clutch type diff. Will make a bigger difference to performance for about same price. But a 3.9 FD with an lsd will be awesome with a manageable 1st gear.

Don't be daft! Take some time and look at your car to understand. Put the steering in full lock eg to the right. Go to the passenger side wheel and you can see the compresion arm and the stopper spur and if you look at the wheel hub you will see the stopper plate. The plate rests on the spur stopping the wheel from further lock. By shortening the spur you allow for further lock/increase in your steering angle. Depending on your front wheel and tyre combination you can cut up to or more than half of the spur without the wheel interfering with the arch or body. I recommend cutting bits off at a time. The spur can also screw out which can help you visualise how much to cut for max angle before interference if any. Obviously you have to do both sides currently and I reccommend cutting after you've installed the tie rod with the increase angle configuration. Herewith a pic of the of arm with the spur.

Pm sent.

You can achieve this cheaply by getting the Tein inner and outer tie rods and just cutting some lenght of the wheel stopper on the compression arm until you get to the maximum lock that does not cause interference. I've got TEIN tie rods but not cut the stopper yet as the angle I have is ok for grip driving on track but the drift guys accross the pond do this.

I've got an original shine auto Nismo V2 bumper in black and slightly modified with flushed CF air intake and double carnards. (The canards are not for sale but negotiable). Good fitting as expected. There is a single crack on the drivers side, some cracking of the lacquer due to the wrong filler being used and the usual stone chips but it's all easy to repair and would not cost extra as even a new bumper needs good prep to get a smooth paint finish. So far as I know there is no supplier for PU Nismo bumpers in the UK. Send me your email for more close up pics but here is what I have saved.

I've got the Mishimoto fan and shroud and wired correctly. They donot comeon at the sametime and just like the OEM. The driver side comes on first and the passenger side when the car senses extra cooling is required. So I will recommend you check your wiring is correct them let the car idle till up to temp then give it some load with the AC on and the px fan will come in at some point. I was equally concerned when I first installed mine but eventually the both came on with the right temp. You can't miss it as when both on it sounds like a helicopter. What you have to remember is that the mishimoto fans are bigger and provide more cooling than OEM. I my case I all got uprated radiator so my overall cooling capacity is 30-40% better than OEM, Good luck.

I got a pair of front lower control arms and duly got the solid bushes pressed in. So I'll be fitting these and compression arms on Friday and my original arms with Superpro bushes(x6 pairs) will be ready for post to a new home. So I don't need your arms in exhange. £250 excluding delivery for these which is cheaper than an OEM compression arm on its own.

Nice woirk Dazza!