GT4 Zed

I have a mid pipe you can have FOC👠You can pick up or arrange courier if you want it.

Pm sent.

I got one off my zed in full working order when I fitted the CJM stage 2 fuel return system. Pm reasonable offer and its yours.

They are spoken for but have been so for a while. If you are serious I can give a deadline to the "buyer" and if he didn't follow through You'llhave first dibs. TbH I'm not desperate to sell but would want it gone by end of February so I can start to prep for spring trackdays.

Bixenon mate👀

This was one of the best upgrades on my zed and paired with high quality race pads is as good as any of the big brands out there. It's had a tough life with at least 500 at the ring, plus UK tracks, fast road and daily driving and has never faded or failed. Spec: 356mm/14" diameter disc 2 piece floating disc 8 pot piston callipers Braided lines It was poorly painted last year but mechanically everything works perfectly. The current set up is with Pagid RS15 race pads which are as good a perfirmance friction 01 but 3/4 the price. The pads and disc have between 60-70% life left. I will get the discs lightly skimmed and provide brand new sports pads(eg ferodo or EDC blues tsuff) with this unless you want the high performance race pads for an extra fee. The kit will come complete with SS braided brake lines, callipers, caliper brackets, disc and pads for a plug and play install on any zed. I'll throw in a bottle of Motul 660 brake fluid and can help with fitting. I'll also throw in proper high temp paint I bought from brake calliper Specislist here with £60. Enough to do 4 callipers so you can get it look sweet before installing in the car. Note: I'm only selling the front kit but the full kit is negotiable. FYI the front does 70% of braking so there is little benefit to change the rear brembos which are adequate. I'm selling as I want to upgrade to 380mm disc as I plan to trackday with R compound tyres this year and figure I may reach the limit of this setup. How they look on a 19" wheel. Will clear 18" wheels including brembo. Had to get this calliper machined last summer to removed a snapped bleed nipple. This was successful and no issues since. I'm asking for £700 ono. You can get new 356mm kit for £1k but it does not include brake pads or fluid and fitting. The pagids RS15 cost about £350 alone.

For sale I'd a brand new Tein EDFC controller kit with a lightly used motor kit giving you complete plug and play solution for any Tein compartible coilover to adjust your damping at the tough if a button within the car. The motor kit was only about 3.5k on the car and is in very good condition. Included in this sale is the installation manual and all the gubbins you need to install this puppy. The full kit retails just over £300 so I'm asking for £250 ono.

For sale is the rear privacy tonneau cover to stop prying eyes from seeing you boot contents. £25 delivered. In good condition.

For sale is my OEM xenon headlights in immaculate condition. It has carbon fibre eyelids which have been painted black to match the car. It was fixed with clear silicon so will come off without any damage to the lightsif you donot want them. I will throw in the aftermarket 6k xenon bulbs, 100w superbright H7 highbeam bulbs silvertec side repeater bulbs and 501 led sidemarkers. All these are worth over 100quid. Note the ballast are not included in the sale. Asking for £350 delivered.

Got these over last year as I needed light weight and super strong 18" wheels to run R888 for track days. I sourced only the rear wheels so I could go for wider front tyres. My plan was a 255/275set up. I still will go this route but I have an opportunity it to get super light weight and strong 18" wheels which are wider than the Rays and will enable me to go for a 265/295 set I really want. I want £450 pick up for the full set as is (1 or 2 wheels have some curb rash that would need a refurb if you want perfection). However for £600 all in I can get all 4 wheels refurbished and powder-coated in any custom colour you want and I will split delivery cost with you or meet halfway where reasonable. Wheels are in worcester. I have forged a good rapport with a local powdercoater who have now offered me a 50% discount for a limited time hence the deal. Andy James here can attest to their workmanship as he got a similar deal from me last year. Refurb/PC takes about 3days. Tyres not included as they are old RE040. 3rd wheel is under some heavy stuff in the garage and I couldn't be asked to move all the stuff about in the cold today.

Front vent needs 9mm mini filter Rear vent needs 15mm mini-filter.

Just to add to this my CD009 has been crunching for about 25k miles out of a total of 100k of which I contributed 85k of fast road, track and daily driving. The fitting an HD clutch and SMF did not affect the crunching. No combination of oils made a jot of a change though there was some improvement after fitting solid gearbox and engine mounts. I also find there is less crunching when the engine/gearbox is warm and i can abolish the crunching with slow deliberate up or downshift between 5th/6th which is how I drive the car now. As you stated the CD009 gearbox was not immune to the synchro issues that plagued the original CD008 and typically the 5th/6th where affected whereas in the 008 1st/2nd also commonly failed. As a result Nissan further upgraded the synchros on the later cars and rebadged the GB as CD00A. This is the only option now available from Nissan to replace any gb from any 03-07 de/Revup car. The CD009 is discontinued. I was also quoted 3k By Nissan for the CD00A including VAT but not fitting about 2 weeks ago. What I'm trying to say is that the CD009 was the first upgrade and this was superseded by the CD00A so do not limit yourself to the 0009 or pay through the nose for it. I'm looking out for one myself and worse case scenario I'll get it from the states for about £2k rather than pay close to 1k some breakers are asking for decent mileage CD009s with little or no warranty.

Holy return batman!!!! Hey Anders how is it with you fella? Good to see you updating on your progressðŸ‘. The only thing I can add is wrt the crankcase venting. If you have issues with high pressures or you want to get the best venting possible and completely oil free charge air then you should not hesitate torun with 2 mini filters VTA and drilling the driver side PCV. This solved the issue I had with smoking at high load/WOT when I was supercharged and running about 15psi at full boost. I have continued to VTA even returning to NA temporarily and the car runs great. I have a one way valve between the pcv and filter on the drivers side so it can only vent but just a mini-filter on the rear passenger pcv with no one way valve so it can breathe fresh air into the crankcase or vent at WOT. I was very concerned with oil vapour smell coming into the car but this is very rare and typically happens after sitting slow traffic for a long time then accelerating or on a slow cool down lap slowing after a major beasting. I suspect this happens because the passenger side vent is close to the cabin air intake. This can be sorted by locating the mini-filter away from there. The second issue is that you can get a very slight film/drops of oil around the minifilters but this I easily cured by instaling the filters upright with a 90deg elbow or preferably a baffled occ between the vent and the filter.

Got a head up from AdrianðŸ‘. To answer all your questions would require confirming that you actually have a hernia indeed in the first instance. Most times the diagnosis is obvious on clinical examination. Sometimes you may need an ultrasound or radiologic modalities. Treatment is often elective(planned) but if you develope a complication like strangulation then you will require emergency surgery. Typically for an inguinal hernia the gold standard repair is the Lichtenstein technique (mesh overlay repair) and it's usually a daycase procedure. Endoscopic (keyhole) repair is also possible but usually not employed for a simple inguinal hernia. So if all you have is a lump in the groin which comes up when you strain, stand etc and that reduces easily when you apply gently pressure to it, lie down or wear even a corset. Typically you may experience a heaviness, dragging sensation or mild discomfort when it's popped out but this goes away when back in. If the lump becomes very painful, red/hot, unable to reduce, or you start to vomit or experience a distending tummy then these may suggest a serious complication requiring emergency surgery. You can reduce the chance of the hernia symptoms worsening or complicating by avoiding strainous activities, avoid constipation, treating persistent cough etc. I'm quite happy for you to contact me by pm or phone so we can discuss things of a more personal nature and I can try to advice appropriately.

Happy bday Mikey🎉ðŸŽðŸŽŠðŸŽ‚!

More expensive than the D1 controller which also has more modes inbuilt for sporty or Eco driving. The sprint is common in European car circles. First heard of them when I had a Beemer back in the days.

Did you go full kit all over? Did you change them becuase the others were worn, or just because you hoped they'd feel better? Nice vid RobboðŸ‘. @ Stu; the front bushes are the ones that commonly fail but all OEM rubber bushes fail to various degrees over time. Shrinking, perishing/cracking, tearing and full blown separation are all degrees of bushing failure. Therefore depending on the degree of failure you may get minimal symptoms or knocking to outright diabolical handling! If you consider that most zeds are over 10yrs old there are a lot out there that would benefit with bushing changes. There is nothing wrong with the OEM bushes except they are to soft and allow excessive mov't which dulls handing and eventually they will fail again bring made of rubber. Secondly the compression arm design was poor which leads to premature compresion bush failure. This issues was addressed by Nissan on the HR and 370z I think. Urethane is better but as the vid shows you need to get well designed ones. I have used Superpro, whiteline and energy suspension. Superpro are up there, whiteline a close second and energy suspension third because some of their bushes are poorly designed. However if you swap those bushes for superpro or whiteline equivalent as I have done for the 2 chaps here you end up with a competent package and some significant savings. Monoball/spherical/rose jointed bushes are the ultimate because there is no bind or stiction and there supension geometry is always maintained optimally as there is no unwanted mov't. However they don't last forever as they are prone to salt corrosion and they are impractical for daily driving. I have been lucky to have been able to swap to full urethane bushes in the past and again to solid monoball bushes which are currently on the car. I have also done the full urethane swap for 2 members here. So I can attest to the fact that every single bush showed significant wear. One thing is for certain the handling is night and day and if you have other suspension mods like ARB, coilovers and adjustable arms it further enhances them. I will be offering a drive in bushing replacement and general suspension service soon and there will be various packages to suit all budgets and usage but in anycase priced very competitively.

I could ask you Bennett, but I'm a sharing kind of guy! 😄😄 Nice one fellaðŸ‘

DP👀

Hey Chris, I will mirror gangzoom's comment and considering I actually did this for 3.5years I can answer anymore questions you may have. An urgent bypass means he has extensive heart disease that cannot be remedied with angioplasty +/- stents( basically stretching open the block/narrow arteries and maintaining them open with scaffolding👀). The other implication is that you have a strong family history of heart disease so you need to inform your go so you can have the usual cholesterol etc screens earlier than is customary so that any treatable risk factor can be addressed. If this is done you should have no issues yourself. I think I tecollect you are a non -smoker which is a plus. WRT your dad he will be fine as otherwise he would not be offered surgery. Usually patients are discharged home within a week or 2 if there are no complications. Serious complications are uncommon. Longterm prognosis is difficult with no knowledge of his medical history current the state of his hearts function. Pm'ed.

Like the looks and mad aero package😎.

Ian are you mating the LS3 to the OEM CD0008/9 gearbox or to a T56, ZF6 speed or similar that is plug and play with the LS3? Can't be asked to re back to see if you got the engine with GB👀.

Good luck Ian and all the supporting cast at the shed. Will be keeping tabs on the build and surely will pop in at a more advanced stage of the build to see progress.

Yeah you can fit them without removing the DLs. Just undo brackets that secure the ARB to the chassis, drop the ARB as far down as the DLs will allow it. The bushes will be exposed underneath the brackets and just can be pulled out easily by hand as they have slits (all ARB bushes have slits to ease installation). Instal the new bushes and brackets and enjoy. There is usually some silicon grease provided but I've never used it. It would take you more time to put the car up on 4 axle stands than to do the swap. My advice would be to get proper tools to avoid rounding any of the hex bolts (ideally powered) and use WD 40 liberally if unable to shift those 10yr old corrosions.

Blank canvas! Personally I would buy the cheaper grey and wrap it for more uniqueness. Because with a rear colour it may also be difficult to sell as it may be hard to buy. Always works both ways. The common grey colour are common for a reason and general keep well.