GT4 Zed

Bump!

Bump!

Tell me about it Pete😎 Bumpity bump

SOLD

The noise could be both but from your description it's likely the banana bush or a ball joint that's failed. You will need to put the car up a ramp and do a thorough inspection to identify this. Even with the wheels unloaded it's difficult to replicate the noise from the bush but it doesn't mean it's not failed.

Is your car stock height or lowered now? I suspect lowered seeing the increase in caster. Seconfly what bushes did you change at the front? Did you use any alignment type bush or you just have one you want to use? The disparity could be down many things and can be narrowed down depending on your answers. I suspect it's to do with unequal ride height side to side. I'm not a fan of the alignment type bushes as the a not accurate and the range us too small to be of value. I also like to find any issues rather than band aid it however the effective way to correct this is with adjustable front UCAs. The added benefit is you can dial in more camber to get that biiisssssssh to corner like on rails. SPL, Kinetix or eibach get my vote. Cusco, ichiba, D2, k sports and all the other knock off will fail.

I would agree with Dan on this as a good base to start with as setup is such an individual thing based on how you like your car to behave but in general the zed certainly needs toe out(-0.05-0.5deg) in front and more positive caster(9-10deg) and negative camber(-ve 2 - 3.5deg. At the rear I feel 1.75-2deg negative camber is optimum anything more is counter productive imho. You need toe in at the rear. You can increase or reduce this to in high speed stability or understeer or vice versa if you want to encourage twitchiness/oversteer or ease of rotation. Ultimately you are limited by how much adjustability you have up front and the type of tyre you are using and how much trade off tyre wear against handling you are prepared to make. Goodluck.

Happy birthday dudeðŸ‘

Not that I'm interested but to help your sale; what is the ET of the wheels? What tyres and tyre sizes are shod on them? Also tread depth and general condition? GLWTSðŸ‘

It's really pointless to have a xenon set up and downgrade it to a halogen set up which is inferior. I think you should hang in there and find someone who has done this here or go to a proper auto electrician and get this done properly. Someone will come along soon enough.

Hey Robbo, got you but I wasn't having a go at you my friend just that your statement read ambiguously TBF I know you are trying to share your experience which is great.

I think your suggestion is misleading Robbo. Have you used Kinetix or SPL parts? I have the engineering is fantastic. My whole car is fully bushes with the SPL solid monoball bushings from Superpro/ energy suspension combo and there is no squeaking, rattling or banging. There is an increase in NVH as the solid bushes transfer all the road noise into the cabin via the chassis. I can even go one step further to say that there is minimal difference between my polybush setup with the solid bushes wrt NVH. I agree that urethane will outlast the OEM bushes but not a poorly designed one. Superpro, whiteline are well designed and probably up there. Overall energy suspension are good but their compression bushing is not as well engineered and would cause bind imho. From what I see looks like prothane are ok but we await your feedback being the first to try them on. We shouldn't forget that these cars are mostly a decade now and when upgrading some areas it can expose problems that were concealed by the good dampening effect of the OEM rubber bushes. So strange noises, knocks etc need to be investigated thouroughly. I've seen front top mounts that were completely seperated due to rust, worn/shrunken bump stops etc as all accuse for strange noises after bushing change.

As I've recently swapped headlights from single xenon to bi xenon on my UK car I can try to help though I suspect anyone who has done the JDM to UK swap is what you really need! Yes to your first question. But from there on everything doesn't really add up. From what you are saying and the pics it would appear that the pin switch has been performed but your xenon bulb has been disabled and replaced with an H4 halogen bulb. The swap should have converted the non- xenon halogen set up on the base JDM or USDM spec car to a single xenon UK spec car. So I suspect the conversion was not welldone. The single xenon have D2R main buib and H7 high beam bulb. The bi xenon have just a single D2R bulb that flicks between main and high beam with the operation of a shutter.

Hot air me?!!!! I'll show you some hot air when I see you lot! Anyway good job and keep up the momentum.

Mad skills!

Bump! I've now taken the 6k xenon bulbs off the deal so reduced offers will be considered. I can take off the eyelids too if required. The rest of the bulbs are still FOC with the headlights.

I wouldn't risk buying from unknown brand for something like this especially with the stresses from drifting. Go for nismo, ARP, eibach or H&R. I got my nismo from the states but I'm sure you can get ARP locally if you are in a hurry or contact Torquen since they trade from the USA frequently.

Pics?

Great day out and loads of cars to see from classics to modern metal. There was a stupendous GTR with 900whp running flex fuel. (Ethanol/ v power ) it does 0-100 in something like 7secs if my memory is correct. I was interested in the old cars so took some pics of bits I found interesting. Will post up later. The March breakfast club will be awesome if this is anything to go by.

+1.

One of the most beautiful classics!

I think they will be the same for DE/HR and therefore 370.

Bump!

Bump!