GT4 Zed

His original post says they are for track cars Trust me Lexx what he meant is for a daily driver that would do the odd trackday👀. Not a pure track car. I recommended the ferodos but not sure if I stated which spec hence my original post. ***Edit: looks like this has been a case of mistaken identity🙀. I had a discussion earlier with harryjackson about pads and some how I confused this with the OP harryjax.what a coincidence

Full shot of the rear will be nice!

FWIW it maybe the cats AFAIK the post cats sensors in the zed only monitor cat efficiency and the pre cats sensors play the major role in fuel trimming. That's why you can turn them off with Uprev or use sensor spacers. I maybe wrong as in some other vehicles the post play a small role too. Ignore this if infact you where suggesting your pre cat sensor was wonky👀. However when you bought the cats, did you inspect it indeed had the advertised 200cell cats? And not just a hollow decat or some random mesh? I have dealt with that seller over 10years ago and while he is reliable, his products are all Chinese knock offs and you may not be getting what you think. I had a similar issue when I had my Scooby and emailed he and he owned up they where from China and he is just a middleman.

Ferodo DS 2500 pads you want👀. The 3000 are pure race pads and work only with temp. It will have poor cold bite and modulation for street driving😎.

Please expand don't hold back !

You are deaf my friend. Longtime ago I had a K1 exhaust and it was leaking and resting on the w brace. It rattled the whole car and drone and you could hear the blowing a bit because it was so loud but you hear it. Let the car idle and stand outside and you will.

You can clearly see that the flange connection between the midpipe and y pipe is misaligned and sagging unto the w brace. There is a small puddle of water which confirms that the connection is not secure and there is a leak. Surely you exhaust not can't be right🙀. Get that car on a ramp and retighten all the flanges sequentially to get the alignment right. As also mentioned new mounts could be helpful. I recommend urethane mounts as they never sag over time. Also make sure that all the mounting points have been use to support the exhaust correctly.

Yes about the valve. Yes about the AC service ports high and low pressure and the brake bleeder is awesome. I just make do with the El cheapo ezibleed from halfrauds which I've had for years and does the job. And you don't need a second pair of hands just like this one. But fair play if you get this professional kit as the discount is massive👀.

I bet you if you remove the IM you will find them deep in the recess between the heads where you have the knock sensor. It's only 6 more bolts toget there. Ideally you should change the gasket which are cheap but only had to do it once and all the other times has been fine with no leaks. Otherwise Zmanalex or Ewen will sort you out.

The only thing ican say is make sure it's not slid down the IM or wedged somewhere in the heads because it will be disastrous🙀. Looks nice though

3.9 would be perfect. If your car is the UK GT the you have the factory VLSD. It's ok but I bet you given the age/mileage it's not as effective any more. If you I doing the FD then stretch and get an aftermarket LSD like Kaaz, Quaife, cusco, nismo etc. I think Clarkmotorsport did a GB on the kaaz not too long ago. I have an lsd and it's just immense. I didn't change the FD because I was going FI but in retrospect I could have done a 3.7 and be ok for traction.

Got 19". Check the FS section. 20" will ruin the handling, make the brakes look tiny and cost you loads for proper tyres👀

Check my FS thread👀. I've got 19" deep dish wheels that are light, strong and in very good nick. I don't need Rays but can do a swap as they will always sell. Pm if interested. I will consider a reduced offer.

Look like you beat me to it RIcky and your questions are pertinent👠but I've assumed the OP know what he is doing. There you go op.

That's not bad going for a cold compression test. Tbh you should expect an improvement on compression with the wet test as a130k engine will have expected ring wear. Because you are within 10% that's fine. A hot compression test is better as expansion is accounted for and representative of true ring leak. Reassemble that baby and keep motoringðŸ‘

+1 Don't think this has anything to do with ABS. You must likely still have some air high up the system. Also check you brake vacuum hose from the plenum to the booster that there is no damage or that the one way valve works. If you have replaced this hose with an aftermarket hose make sure you installed the one way valve as without this you can experience similar issues.

Nice one mate! I suspected that is what you want to do but there is always that numerical disparity and what affectively happens and this causes confusion. You actually lengthen/increase the ratio with a shorter drive and lowe/shorten the ration with longer drive. If you are going to stay NA and would install an LSD at the same time it's worth it but by itself it's not cost effective. You will be gaining 10-15% more acceleration per gear with the 4.08 but also = poorer economy potentially = reduced rear traction theoretically on launches = useless first gear as you hit redline too soon etc Most of this can be mitigated with good grippy/wider tyres, adding the lsd, launching from 2nd and short shifting.

I've used them and been to their site and they are very professional👠Nice work bradders for getting this going😎

Just out of interest why do you want to swap for a shorter final drive? Typically in NA tuning you would go for a longer final drive ratio to improve in-gear acceleration. Eg from 3.5 to 3.9. Is this what you mean or really you want to shorten the ratio eg from 3.5 to 3.3?

Matt, I'm in Worcester and may have seen you around once or twice but in my M3 as I hardly drive my zed now. There are a few zed's around Worcester now and we really need to have a mini meet cars and coffee type of thing. I'll be going to Shelsey Walsh so we can tag along. Always a good way to meet new faces. Also my local garage/mechanic is fully zed trained and charges fairly if you need servicing or mods just get in touch via pm.

10/8 is fine as an all rounder. But if you want OEM comfort and just the ability to lower the car with no track work in mind then you may consider an 8/6 or just get lowering springs. Better still find a member near you with BC or similar spec coilover and go for a ride to be sure that's what you are looking for.

FWIW the ball joints on the compression arm tend to be ok most of the time and I suspect this is so because despite prolonged use of the car with a failed compression bush they have enough freedom of movement due to the coincidental inherent design of the joint. However the only way to tell would be to remove the whole arm and inspect them. In the FSM it out lines the tolerances that constitute acceptable. Basically there should be NO free play on the vertical axis and there should be some resistance to side to side deflection of the ball joint spindle. Finally if the boot is torn then the ball joint is fubar as it will leak the grease and fail due to drying out. You cannot replace the ball joint or boot.

Ditch the crap tyres. Sell the falkens if they have loads of meat as they are mid level tyres. Get ultra high performance tyres and the zed will thank you since you drive it hard and plan on some trackdays. Michelin pilot sports 2 or supersports get my vote all day long. They are expensive but will last you a long time and have probably the best performance this side of non race or semi slick tyres. While you are there also check your discs and pads are adequate and do a full aligment geometry as I bet you it will be off.

It's possible that could be the cause but I would expect that Sly would check and correct the tyre pressures of all 4 sides corners before doing full geometry alignment. I always ensure correct tyre pressures enroute to alignment. Re check the geometry when you are there after checking the coilover too👠The big question is how do you drive a car with 9psi down on 1 corner and you couldn't tell the difference🙀!!!!

Nice listðŸ‘. Recheck the coilover on the drivers side. It must be sitting slightly higher.