GT4 Zed

I guess that answers my question then

You know where I live😎

Why do you think you will surely rub? Most of the performance springs will not get you silly low to cause rubbing unless you have changed your wheel/tyre combo too by a lot.

Vlad, I accept your apology and that's what should have gone down in the first place. We have been mates too long hence why I was disappointed. I explained to you why I had to remove the mesh and the bumper was described correctly imho. The cracks where in the lacquer/paint not the fibre glass so cosmetic. There was one crack involving the fibre glass as declared/photographed. However I f you felt misled then sorry, I did my best to be open with the description. Anyway I'm glad we can put this behind us and have exposed this charlatan in public.ðŸ‘

I said it was nothing to do with me what happened between you and him! Just like it's nothing to do with anybody else what happened between me and him - I'm not blaming anybody else for it, just warning people! Without trying to blow this up or go into tiny get ails it still sounds to me like you still lack insight! And this this is what was/is annoying about the whole. You recommended someone to me who gives me the run around, does a really bad job and when I complained to you about this after the end of the protracted saga, you said it's none of your business what happened between the 2 of us👀! This comes accross as unsympathetic and selfish. You fail to see that what happened is that I got a shocking service by someone you recommended! It wasn't a social complaint though is behaviour is also shocking! I was'nt asking you for a refund but some acknowledgement that you misled me and this guy has messed up. This is taking responsibility. The least could have been on the lines of "i"ll speak to "my mate" to see how this can be redressed or to let him know you were unhappy with the service", Not its nothing to do with me because it does👎. I'm not blaming you for his actions but for claiming he was a professional when by the evidence of it all you where guess or quoting his words without substantiated evidence. So it's good the same treatment was metted out to you despite him being your mate and highly professional ( "very anal about his work" as you put it!)

Bump

All I can say is serve you right! I told you about this guy's shoddy work but you said it had nothing to do with you, despite the fact you highly recommended him to me.

I noticed that my side repeaters, front and rear turn signals are no longer working about 2 weeks after installing my bixenon headlights upgrade. Fitting was straight forwards but the front repeater bulbs I had from my single xenon setup needed modding the contact pad to make it work. After this it was working fine so don't know if that's the issue. I took the car out for a drive on Saturday before the Shelsey Walsh and noticed that when switching the turn signal up or down the light only flashed once and nothing else. I got home and checked the repeaters and both front and rear turn signal come on all together with a single flash whether I indicate in either direction and then zip. No clicking sounds or flashing in the interior cluster. Now they all donot flash at all. Pressing the hazard button gets all the bulbs working properly though I suspect the issue is with some relay switch or maybe a fuse if it's seperate circuit with the hazards. Any suggestions before I start trouble shooting. Looking up the fuses is easy but I have no idea where the relay will be. Any help will be appreciated.

Without any bias since I've fitted the urethane bushes I've got to say the combo of the HKS coilover, antiroll bars and all round urethane bushes has led to an amazing handling car with the right compliance and good manners for fast road and trackwork. I've been lucky to see through the transformation of this car and the difference is so blatant which is not a surprise as I have undergone the same transformation first with poly bushes then with full solid monoball bushes albeit with a more aggressive track geometry and stiffer spring rates. I also have done the same setup for paul(Jmamji) except he not got coilovers yet and so I have been able to quantify what makes what differences. All I can say is if you are going to put coilovers, ARBs etc then overhaul the bushes as they underpin the whole suspension and then you will truly transform the car as opposed getting half benefits doing all that on worn out bushes.

Heat management has been a particular issue with the 370z so if you plan to use it properly I will invest in a large oil cooler and oil pan/ spacer to enhance the cooling capacity.

This is important with all cars. 👀

What does the manufacturer say? Didn't it come with a manual. In my SPLs you use shims close to the ball joint to adjust camber and the inner joint to adjust caster. It tells you how many turns correspond roughly to degrees. Other wise just wind in the inner joints and lock them square and then adjust the ball joint to mirror OEM arms and see what you get from your alignment. Shouldn't be too far off.

🎂ðŸŽðŸŽŠðŸŽˆðŸŽ‰!!!!

While I can agree that Tein has offered different spring rates for the European and JDM market VS the USDM this only applies to coilover springs. The lowering springs are universal and they provide different types of rates and height drop to proviide comfort, sporty or aggressive characteristics while staying the damping range of the OEM shocks. Tein also honors its warranty whatever their product is purchased from so far has you have the receipt and product code. I have had the pleasure to deal with them directly and upgraded my US purchased coilovers with no problems. All TEIN products come from Tein Japan. So while I'm not trying to discredit CMS I'm just clarifying an incorrect statement. Unless you meant beware of replica or knockoffs from China which I totally agree with.

Well done mateðŸ‘. I'm never been sure about these braces though the fender brace definitely works as it triangulates an area of inadvertent weakness in chassis rigidity. I also noticed with interest that the bricks or rather "chucks" have been put behind the front wheels. Is that to help the car roll forwards :lol: as certainly it will not prevent it from doing so since as the rear has been jacked up. Be safe👀.

There is no bolt on mod out there that will give you 30hp without tuning. What it boils down to is the are proven mods that are cheaper which combined with tuning with achieve 30-40whp gains. So Kinetix SSV plays plenum spacer. If you are FI then the SSV will be a be good like also the cosworth. BTW I've got this on my car when SC'ed and still on while temporarily NA. There are hundreds of threads here on proven tuning steps. Search/read. -Intake plays 2006 air box and uprated panel filter -Plenum spacer ( any brand) - exhaust: decats/HFC. Uprated y pipe. Headers if you can afford the labour. The rest of the exhsust flow well so can stay but most change it for better sound. Tuning- Uprev remap or piggy back like UTEC or unichip or haltech better UPrev is. Most popular. A full service with new iridium plugs and maybe grounding kit can all make the car fill better. So you decide all the above will set you back between 1-2k. Now how about getting a d1 throttle controller, improve the handing and braking and driving. It will cost the same probably but you will be as faster than having 30-40hp more. Do you have the stomach for it?

Congrats. I guess it's Ian for mayor next🙀😜!

+1 We maybe too harsh. He was safe in F1 and has driven in LMP class before and has a lot of seat time infront of him before Le Mans so he may turn up ok. Nissan are not stupid and they always have a good mix of drivers playing to their mutual strengths.

Andy, if you are ok to wait till Sunday at Shelsey Walsh I may know someone with a very good car for you guys.😎

My friend you know nothing and you have been given the best advice by Dan. If you don't think its right or prepared to take it, why did you ask in the first place? Fwiw if your car is very lowered you will be running excessive -ve camber both front and rear. If you don't have wider range aftermarket adjustable camber arms you will not be able to bring this back into spec. Looking at the arch gap visually tells you nothing because you are assuming both sides are perfectly equal. They are not. The main reference point is the suspension mounting point and manufacturers spend great effort to get them to be accurate on both axles and even so it's near impossible and you can have variations up to 10% hence why you have the OEM adjustability and range to account for this.. So yes it maybe off or not, or you may have some other issues or not the first thing to do is to do an alignment. If it off the get it adjusted to mirror the other side. The arms should also be inspected if the are bent. Finally the eccentric cams/bolt can slip and knock your camber off so it's alway a good idea to mark it with paint so when inspecting you know if this has happened. The best solution when lowered anyway would be to get adjustable arms, eccentric lockout kit and drop links.

RIP Mr Nimoy😇. LLAP

What response do you expect with this question? Ricky suggested an ingenious temporary solution. Do you lack common sense? Off course it needs to be done right. It's your car therefore your call and if you need to buy a new or used one so be it. If you want to botch it carry on! Speak to the used parts traders and you will know if they may sell you just what you need or the whole thing.

They should have come with spacers! Surely you can can take a strut brace bolt into a hardware shop and get enough washers to clear the plenum on all the four bolts.

It does sound like that when the second fan kicks in. Difficult to say if yours is louder or not but my second fan hardly ever comes on even on the track. Also check both fans are pulling in air as if they are not well connected one maybe pushing and the or pulley creating turbulence.

Pritchard did you try adjusting the latch upwards or even the hinges? I have a carbon fibre SEIBON bonnet and had to do this to fit my slam panel. Ever so slightly slacken the hinge bolts and the latch bolt and it upwards then close the bonnet gently. It would slide enough to @*!# properly if you got the bolts just right. Now tighten everything and retest. It should be ok then. Just sayin' before you sell😉