GT4 Zed

+1 with Ekona and dowcra. Looking at the video it's was just driver error - power too early and the initial correction was correct but over compensated hence why the car straighten back and went the opposite way so quickly and resulted in the full spin. At that point it would have been almost impossible to catch. I have had a massive under steer off at that corner into the in-field on a drying track. I had been taking that corner with increasing speed as the track was drying and grip was comming to me and then on this lap I was too greedy and carried too much speed so under steered out of shape and began to rotate in a 180 broad side drift. I just just minimally corrected the skid with both feet down and ploughed straight into the grass infield with nothing to hit. I did this because I realised any over correction would get me towards that put wall like the ginger zed or M3. We can analyse all we want but it's not as easy as it sounds and only comes with more practice and experience, I have been lucky loads of times and constantly learning from this. You are a big man in my eyes sharing your experience on video. There is no shame here only winingðŸ‘. Any track tuition is beneficial and I never pass an opportunity to get more experienced drivers to show me a thing or 2.

My all time inspiration! Whenever I see it I almost cry as I know what he is talking about or trying to accomplish. I just wish I was further down the line with the zed.

I got OEM sides skirt in Kuro I'd be happy to post. They are in good condition with only storage scratches in my garage. I can get you some pics if wanted. Pm me with your offer.

Now selling the whole front and rear kit. Rear spec: 356mm/14" diameter disc 2 piece floating disc 6 pot piston callipers Braided lines Pagid RS15 pads. I'm asking for £1200 + OEM complete brembo in average condition at least. This will be full bolt on kit with 1 bottle of Motul thrown in. I will also sort out the swap if you travel to Worcester.

Thanks bradders👠@rasco I'll keep you in mind if they are not gone. Send me a pm memo😉

Yeah man the shizz got real for sure.👠I'm loving that orange big time!!!!!!

Great pics dude👠Really good turn out and variety.

Spacers widen your track so provide addition lateral stability and more grip. In my case they contribute a small part to the handling only since I've got more serious upgrades giving incredible mechanical grip. But you can feel a diffeence without them. I had only rear spacers and the car used to understeer in the wet a lot but adding the front cured most of it. Hope that helps.

I presume you are asking about the rear wing. They GTRZ modelled with CFD after Esprit wing for the GTR. They are supplied exclusively by RT performance. It's rare, it's CF and it works.

Bump. Price reduced to £750 inclusive of shipping😎.

someone can quote me if I'm wrong. But adjustable droplinks are required when lowering below a certain point to either maintain/relief pressure on the arb. (Not sure which) #teamtarmac You should always get adjustable drop links if you lower a car from stock height because most OEM drop links are fixed length designed to keep the ARBs with no preload (pressure) on stock height. When you lower the car the fulcrum/mounting points for the ARBs change but because your OEM droplink are fixed lenght it tensions the ARB to vary degrees depending on how low you are. That pretension reduces the effectiveness of the ARB. Secondly with adjustable ARB the fulcrum point for the droplinks changes depending on which position you set it in; whether soft, medium or hard therefore you need to adjust the droplink lenght to suit this and maintain no preload on the ARB. Thirdly, this adjustability also makes it invaluable when corner weighting the car but let's not go there as most here will never do that. I have seen/driven so many zeds that are lowered and handle poorly because of preload on the ARB amongst other things and also the stock droplinks fail prematurely because of the excessive angle on the ball joint articulation.

Nice work guys. I've done this so many times now and its a always a PITA on the driveway but the rewards are worth it. I know you said you are taking your car to sly for setup. Don't fail to remind him to set up the drop links in neutral so the ARB are not pre-tensioned as he may assume you have done this when installing them. Secondly get yourself some eccentric lock out plates now that you have adjustable camber arms. It's eliminates the possibility of you rear camber changing from the set value due to the OEM eccentric cams washer slipping with aggressive driving. I have a spare set somewhere😉.

So technically having a decatted exhaust is better? Yes and no. What he is saying is that the absence of blue smoke when you have cats is due to it being burned of and does not exclude oil control ring leak where as if you have decats the oil is unburnt and obvious in your exhsust. So it's a coincidental thing and it a primary function of cats or decats. Note if you are leaking significant oil in the exhaust there will be blue smoke irrespective of cats or not as not all the oil can or will be burnt in the short transit time. Decats provide free flow hence more power if tuned to take advantage of this. Will also increase exhsust noise depending on design. On the flip side it's illegal as you are not emission compliant unlike cats and that thier primary function. High flow cats are a nice compromise and gives you the best of both worlds but some can be raspy.

Just did some reading and got some help from Mike_89. The turn signals/ repeater are control by software via the BCM. I need to swap the bulbs first and if that fails may have to get a new BCM. I may have had the wrong bulbs hence having to mid them to fit Happy days ................... ........... ......... Not! I hate electrics 😖😖!

Tony over at Wheels In Motion said 'All you need to do is adjust the arms pick up point at the chassis to move the castor'. & 'All you need to do is decrease the length of the front upper point or increase the rear point, sometimes we have to do both depending on the adjustment range.' I need to dial my caster back a bit (just over 9 at the mo, trying to get around 7°30 from Tonys advice with my set up). And just to confirm Kam at DW's said yep While I agree with the above I'll be very careful unwinding the arm to chassis joints as it does not seem these UCAs were designed for caster adjustment and there is not a lot of thread or strenght in those ends. Looks likely to fail if not fully wound in. I hope I'm wrong. More +ve caster is better especially in the zed with very dull front end feel from stock, so I'm wondering why he would advice less caster than the upper OEM limit!? I've been running near dead on 10 deg with no probs but 9deg should be perfect IMHO.

Sounds like bs! They can pull up the DVLA info to find out the driver's status. I'm always suspicious of rozzers.

Dan, didn't peg you as a cynic :lol:

+1 I used clear silicone on mine and they never budged for over 5yrs. I didn't have to use tape to hold it down as it was a good CF copy but I guess it's a solution if the fitting/curvature is not perfect.

There will be 2 holes uncovered when you take the lip spoiler off. It will be covered by the Nismo wing so it's up to you if you want to weld it closed or not. If you don't make sure they put a flat rubber grommet or silicone over it to prevent water ingress into the boot floor. People have secured the nismo with adhesive sealant, double sided tape and or bolts. I went with bolts(2 holes on each side) to ensure it went nowhere on track. You will have to drill holes for this. The choice is yours but I always say do it right or do it twice👀.

How did this happen? Is this a permanent issue or one off? As much as we'd like to help we are not psychic. There are a few things that can make this happen without being in limp mode so your description of events will help throw light.

If the belt is old Ill recommend getting a new one as old belts eventually stretch and begin to squeal. And though you can re-tension it to stop squealing it would stretch eventually and more likely to crack and fail. While you are at it it worth changing the AC belt too. Gates or continental belts are my pick. The rest is cheap crap.

Anybody?

+1 with you on this Kyle. Never a fan of these rob Peter to pay Paul products. It's a solution for the masses and not the purist.

Prolonged idle is bad for cams but I guess this was a test not a habitual practice. Sounds strange but some extra info could help. Did this heating issues start de novo or after coolant change? How soon/quickly does it overheat? Is this in every driving condition eg traffic or extra urban? Did you have any coolant in the spill over tank when you first checked this with the heating? Have you tried re bleeding the system anyway from the valve at the back? I presume the above tests in your first post have been carried out by the garage? Yes checking the pump and thermostat is imperative. But it should be worth noting that the coolant can be notoriously difficult to bleed air from and should not be overlooked.

Nice👠WRT to the oil, was this grade/type recommended by Quaife or oilman or you just got the best oil in your opinion. While I'm pretty sure that the quaife lsd will use the same synthetic grade oil as OEM, it's worth checking as it make a huge difference not so much with a gear type diff like the Quaife as opposed to clutch type LSDs which are very oil sensitive wrt smoothness of operation and longevity.