GT4 Zed

Great finish, superb welding skills but the design is flawed and will not meet the safety standard as interprete them. There are some great examples out there and would have been easier to improve on the design.

I've never come off SP9 since I got mine. Everything feels sooooooooooo slowwwwwwwww and dull.

Hey haydn, longtime bro! The facts are still unclear. If they were allowed there by the marchals or not but unlike the average circuit spanning under 4 miles the ring + Gp circuit is 16-17miles long making policing near impossible. People have no regard for their safety and this can be seen in the recent rally deaths or even YouTube videos of people doing foolish things to take pictures. It is always tragic when there is loss of human life (apparently an 8yr old). Anyway I hope a full invrstigation will determine what is what rather than speculation and lessons can be drawn from this.

Are these guys for real

Now we are getting somewhere👠The mx5 will be adequate in squiring driving skills on the track. It has agood chassis and enough power but not like the zed which can get you into trouble if you don't know what you are doing. The mx5 is cheap to run: tyres, brakes, pads, service, petrol etc and to modify to go well on the track. The other thing is the re-sell well. If I where you and can afford it I'll get as much track time with the mx5 and keep improving it until a point where you need more power. While going through the learning curve it will improve your confidence and enjoyment of the zed and at some point you can decide to sell the mx5 and turn the zed to your next track toy and get another daily driver or sell it for a more capable daily drive to match your new skills or sell both and get better platforms fir the same purpose. 1 for track and one for DD buy capable. Bedford is a good place and wherever you go take advantage of cheap tuition or have an experienced co pilot around so you development is sped up. FWIW a std zed with decent coilovers, ARB, droplinks, pads and tyres is very capable. The next stage is adjustable suspension parts and poly bushing. The only way from there is stripping +/- FI. Chasing NA power is a waste of time.

As the pics rightly show and I said numerous times you need adjustable droplink when you lower your car. The factory droplink is design with the factory ARB and height so droping the car the droplinks push the ARB upwards and put preload(twist) into the ARB and reducing the amount of anti twist left to resist roll. Being parallel is not so much as important as getting the endlink pivot (ball joint) line pepenficular into the ARB holes and the chassis pick up point and in doing so it will have no preload and invariably be parallel. If you got adjustable droplinks then: Get the car on a flat surface ideally ramp. Disconnect both droplink ends off the ARB. Adjust one end first so the droplink bolt can slot into freely into the ARB slot of your preference. Put the nut loosely and then repeat on the other side. Then tighten everything. Repeat one the other axle. Some people put an equivalent weight of the driver on the driver seat but I think it's BS. If you want to be doing this then get the car corner weighted which is a similar process but you put a full or half full tank of fuel, then make small coilover height adjustment at each corner until you achieve identical weights on each axle end and cross corners. This gives you the best handling possible. Takes time to do and cost usually over £250.

Double post

I think the problem is you not the car. You want to eat your cake and have it. Changing cars will not change a thing. you got to change yourself. Stop thinking about what people think and live your life to the fullest. They are only cars, drive it like you stole it, look after them properly, modify them as you see fit and you will be rewarded. If it doesn't work then it's not for you and then try a different platform until you find the one(s). Btw I got 46/176 and hardly anything OEM left of it. I'm getting around to a full strip and go FI again and I have no guilt it's a GT4. My second car is an M3 V8 but it's number 2. The work horse. I drive the zed under 6k miles year but each time is special. When I drive it's to connect with it, nothing else matters at that point. The other car is just a DD, comfortable, reliable and capable. No interest in modifying it.

White smoke is usually failed head gasket. This is easy to check or test. Do you noticed mayonnaise oil or contaminated coolant? Is the car loosing coolant? Or using oil a lot? Other cause of white, whitish or whitish blue smoke could be: Failed valve stem seals Worn piston rings Failed pcv valve Overfilling oil A more detailed description of when the smoke comes, eg start up vs high load vs permanent? And the above questions. Any proper garage or mechanic should be able to test and isolate the issue quickly and confirm the exact diagnisis. Is your car manual or auto btw? What year/mileage?

CMS, zmanalex, Falcon performance can all get you engines or you can take a punt at eBay. Where to get it fitted will depend on where you live unless you are prepared to travel. If you are lucky to live around Bournemouth you can speak with the boys at the zed shed who have been golden helping member with refitting engines. Goodluck with this.

Going wide infront will increase front end grip and response no doubt. I've been running with 265 or 255 for yonks. You will increase bumpsteer, tramlining and steering heaviness though but these can be dealt with if you have adjustable components to readjust the suspension geometry. Eg You can reduce the heavy steering by increasing front caster. However tramlining can never be completely abolished as its due to the widths. I'm running almost 10deg of positive caster and my steering feels lighter than stock and self righting is lightning quick but the steering is twitchy but that's how I like my car set up. Your only limitation to what you can throw up in front or even at the rear is under arch space and staying within -/+2.5% of OEM rolling radius. I recommend a larger power steering cooler like the nismo or Mishimoto as the pas fluid temp will increase as the pump has to work more. Not addressing this may lead to failure. I've got the Nismo cooler and I still have the fluid spit out of the bottle if I'm doing repeated power slides or tight roundabouts. To benefit for large wheels though you need to run more camber, aggressive toe out and some caster to make that grip count. You will not regret it but if your car is a daily driver then think twice.

Shame this had to happen to Nismo and Jann mardenborough who is a genuine nice guy. My sympathies also go to the family of the deceased. It's a freakish aero malfunction. I've already read tons of opinions on this and the knee jerk reaction after the aftermath. Herewith a video with different angles to the crash and that car was even airborne before it hit the crest at flugplatz(literally means "flying place"). As commander rightly pointed cars go light up front as you crest and even normal road cars if you are trying hard enough. I know as I've experienced it countless times. True aero cars will take that crest almost flat out and brake after the jump to make the turn and the sight is amazing. You have something similar at Pflanzgarten 1(km17) except it's down hill but you certainly experience negative g as all 4 wheel go airborne. But unpredictably a set of condition can result in aero failure and loss off downforce leading to the car taking to the skies. Given thousands of goes it will be impossible to replicate this on track. This type of failures are very rare and cannot be avoided. It's either we race or don't with all the tech available. Spectator safety is generally very good and accidents involving them are extremely rare even at the Ring. http://youtu.be/P5kmWTos1ys

You guys are cracking me up! I know some of you have said you do not have the pcv mod but I'll tell you it's only a matter of time before pressurising the crankcase leads into oil leaks via rings and even gaskets. Don't forget the car was designed for NA. Everything changes when you go FI. I agree with going with a bigger and also effective occ. And tbh any way you choose to relieve crankcase pressure with or without isolation of the intake plenum from the pcv will be better than doing nothing at all. I like the Mishimoto can but not the price. I bought my can from elite engineering for $100 cheap and it works perfect. http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/catch-cans/ I'll post up some pics of my install tomorrow.

I have ran multiple combinations of PCV plumbing in both NA and FI and I've settled for a complete VTA system ie both port are venting to atmosphere via individual filters. I have an occ on the driver side port as it vents oily vapour and the valve is drilled. The passenger side port hadly vents any oil and I've no found the need to put an occ on it. This set up is not emission friendly which is the reason the OEM setup plumbs into the intake. Yes the vacuum help pulling out the gases too but not imperative as crankcase pressure will always be high than atmosphere. So the vapours find their way out. I've had no issues and my car runs strong and faces a lot of track and fast riad abuse. I agree that there is not one single way to do it and with FI in mind you just want to prevent boosting the crankcase primarily. The issue of preventing oil contamination is secondary and tbh not a signifant issue. How many OEM FI cars you know that come from factory with occ or complete diversion of crankcase from the intake plenum? It is mandatory as per emission rules. However if you did prevent recirc it will improve things hence why I'm fully VTA. I will not advice connecting both ports to one OCC. It's a a bad idea. Study the VQ engine diagram of the PCV system and you'll see why. There are many post of people who did this and had various issues. WRT the occ itself the Rutland one does not cut it longterm and after I bought the third one I decided to get a proper Motorsport spec baffled can and I made it fit between the overflow tank and PAS reservoir. It helped because I have the aftermarket aluminium tanks which are smaller. There are about 10 cars FI zed's here all using one or more of the system I described so it can't be that bad.

It will be a straight swap but the issue will be your JDM brakes. I'll have to adjust the price accordingly because I really don't think they have any resale value. Please pm pics of these and a contact info so we can work something out if possible. Cheers

Yes I've got the EDC. I think it works great and a must have option. I only sold my supercharger kit as I in the process of getting a custom monster supercharger set up capable of 700whp with a built engine. The project is delayed due to some other commitments but will happen eventually. When you have driven a well sorted zed and with loads of power you can never want something else. I will never sell my zed if I can help it.

I've had my E92 since early September last year and getting used to it now. Intially I was not too impressed but because I was constantly comparing it to my supercharged and heavily modified zed and secondly to be rewarded you need to drive it a certain way. The engine is a peach and though it has only slightly more torque than a std zed the engine map/cams is very interesting and it seems this torque is everywhere and every time. There is no doubt it will smash a std zed to bits in a type of test. I have learnt to enjoy the comfort and performance and yes the running cost is a bit high on the std zed but still cheaper than my supercharged zed and now I do under 6k miles a year so it doesn't matter. It's been reliable so far and the only thing that are negatives are the weight could be less, the electronic diff feels unnatural but works well, the subframe could do with stiffer bushes and just like the zed suffers with wheel hop on hard launches. You can improve on braking, handling and exhsust noise to put your individual touch but I've decided to leave the car as std since as a road its up there with the best. I'll track it a few times this year then retire it to DD use only. I've had the alpina B3.3, E30 M3, E46 M3smg, E36 328ci and driven the E46 330ci and E36 M3 evo, E46 M3 CSL and can say categorically that the V8 is an improvement on all the NA M3 in everyway and being the last of its kind should be in every petrolheads bucket list. I went for the manual but I would admit the DCT will even enhance the experience. I just can't imagine who superb the new FI engined M3/4 will be. They will be epic. Pic whoring.

Front soft (rear hole) Rear medium or soft. ( Middle or rear hole) Remember the eibach ARBs like most others are stiffer than stock in all settings so don't be tempted to go hard.

Ah......... it makes sense but it's such an uncommon practice especially in a sports cars. Yes you can compensate for road crown with dialling caster and camber but because more camber causes increase tire wear and temps (if on race track) only caster and indirectly SAI is adjusted since they donot affect wear. More positive caster makes lighter, easier steering from car on that side and heavier steering on the side with less caster but from a performance perspective it will feel odd when driving on a flatter road or track and it will pull slightly to one side especially on heavy braking. This also has implications on low grip conditions. So Tony's settings now all makes sense but these for a DD car not for outright performance.

Yes, you should have been able to dial more camber in at the rear with your std cams/bolt. Improving front turn in or particularly grip is a function of several geo and suspension parameters. So just as its counter productive to dial loads of front camber without being able to address the rear camber the same applies everywhere hence why the more adjustability you have in your set up the easier it is to dial any characteristic you require with minimum compromise. So for front turn you need more camber but also less toe in or more toe out. How much you go for will be a function of the feel you are after, the type of tyres you have eg road vs semi slick vs slicks and acceptable tyre wear longterm. Damper(if you have coilovers) and ARB settings are also important so if you have them install it asap and find the setting that gives you what you are after. Finally, it is not just enough to have all the geo parameters set in the green. In the ideal world you need both ends of each axle to be the same or within a few tenths of a degree. That's what you gain from a fully adjustable setup. So my comment was that the disparity in Caster is too much ~>0.5deg/30mins left to right and given that there is a small adjustment possible with your DW arms they should have tried to even this. The SAI will even itself even when the rest are approximated. In anycase for normal driving you will be fine.

Very brave on going with ITBs👠There are a few threads on my350z.com but basically in the long run the jenvey ITB kit is recommended as though twice the price it's well thought out and complete as it would appear the OBX are a cheap copy for a reason and the kit is also incomplete. However, with your mad skills I'm sure you could sort these issues out. What tuning solution do you have in mind? I would recommend heat wrapping those headers. I'm glad I did mine. Also use OEM gaskets if you can. They are way superior. I think I have an unused set you can have under full cost price.

Nice feedback Robbo👠I called them once before a year ago if they could do corner weighting on my zed after recommendation from a friend and they said they had stopped as it took too much time when they could make more money doing just 4 wheel alignment. They gave you a std OEM spec set up there. I still do not understand what he meant about have more camber up front because with the OEM eccentric washer/bolt you would be able to dial a bit over -2deg. In fact being mildly lowered it should be easy. The issue is usually going back into spec and lowering tends to give you more camber. My other observation is the large difference in caster and SAI in front. It's huge. Did they no try to even it out since those DW arms have a small caster adjustability? Anyway you are happy that's all that counts.

Get better pads😜. Seriously do the bedding in a prescribed and if it's still squealing get shims or try grease or both. Also make sure the pads are moving freely within the calliper and not sticking. You can have a build up of pad dust, corrosion within the calliper that tends to prevent free movement of the pads.

I'll keep topping up coolant and bleeding air from the valve at the back. A couple of times after a hard drive so do it. Squeezing the hoses vigourously before and bleeding with the rear of the vehicle raised or at an incline helps get the air bubble to the valve which is the highest poit in the system. If there was space in the engine bay I would certainly put a breather system in my car to absolutely banish any air lock in the system.

This is so refreshing and inspiringðŸ‘ðŸ‘. Thanks fir sharing.