GT4 Zed

I agree with trying to sell as a package first. ie sell the supercharger and essential supporting mods as a package deal and the other non essential mods like spacer, oil cooler, hoses can be sold individually. GLWTS mate.

Spoiler yes but you got the wrong splitter🙀 I'll see if I can find pics of the best 240z splitter😜 Good work as usual and resourcefulness. I see why SOB(Sir Octet of Bushey) why quiet this weekend as he had the mask over his face👀

Can't believe you are selling Mike after all the patience we had to put this all together! I hope you don't regret the decision mate. I've got an M3 V8 and still kept the zed. With the supercharger and brakes/handling mods my zed is faster in any comparison. But I would agree that if you have to keep only one car the C63 ticks more boxes,(performance, practicality, reliability?)

Yeah 9ish is okðŸ‘

That's good news mate👠But 5" tail pipes are abit rice IMO. 4" will do the job and look good. Are you sure you don't want any muffing? It is going to be very very loud without🙀! You can get mufflers that donot reduce flow BTW.

@alex Thanks for sharing your experience. Though Ive never had this combo myself I've driven zeds with them and also with OEM discs and its a good setup overall fast road and occasional track work. In fact I felt no difference with the DBA and OEM brembo or pagid discs which are good quality and not to be confused with the crap EBC, black diamond etc Get some lines and upgrade fluid and I reckon it will reduce the fade you experienced. @Robbo, while I it possible that you are experiencing knock back it is unlikely a normal road speeds/driving. Most likely culprit is you may still have air in the system and the torque characteristic of the yellow stuff pad will be shiite anyway. Never rated any EBC pads. Used yellow stuff ones on my Scooby and was shocked how poor they were on track or fast road. Get DS2500 or better. I get knock back infrequently but typically when the pads have less than 40% life left and also rarely on the road. With the pagid RS15 race pads I'm currently using you get a slight lull on braking from cold at low speeds and part brake input but this is to be expected because it's a race pad that needs heat to be optimal.

Hey Mark, longtime. I had considered the cusco cage until I helped fitting one and I have no doubts you could really call them a track worthy roll cage. All the 6 points are bolted onto the thin sheet metal floor of the car and the reinforment plates are flimsy. If you roll a car with it, certainly it will punch through the floor. This is why they donot meet any type approval anywhere in the world. However as my question to the op if it's for show or low risk activity as auto cross/gymkhana, amateur drifting events then it's adequate since you just need a roll and harness bar. Secondly the design is versatile being bolt on and the fitting is not intrusive. From a price point of view considering how much the cusco costs, definitely one should consider a weld in or bolt on cage from custom cages or the like which starts from £600(-VAT) if you are looking for serious protection and chassis stiffening. Off course this does not include the cisy of welding.

Do you want a cage for show, harness/roll bar or roll/crash protection? Because at best it's a half decent roll and harness bar.

The choice of wrap colour makes the otherwise fugly Nismo bodykit attractive but as many have pointed out the blue wheels clash and ruin an otherwise perfect execution and as for the stretch where do I begin? Anyway your money, your choice so credit where it's due.

No you have not deleted it and can't delete it anyway. If you want to follow your posts or other threads subscribe to them or search your contents or general search under author. Here's your post. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97084-springs-and-spacers/#entry1466068 Mods please lock one down.

You are worrying for nothing. At 17mm you will be fine. Provided no crazy sideskirt/front lip and wheels. Are you running 30mm on Rays? Bit excessive if that's the case. An ET of 12-15mm will give the perfect poke.

Whoaaaaa!!! Holy crap unlucky Steve. Glad you are ok and you are already seeing a way forwards to make the best of the situation👠. +1 on a drift/track car. It will be much fun and without the constant worry of how the car looks. I'll catch up with you later.

Get them re welded and job done.

XL stands for extra load or reinforced and its specified for cars with higher axle weights eg the rear axles for Porsche 911 requires 102Y XL It's just constructed to deal with more load but will enhance the driving feel. I've been using XL tires for ages since I'm running MPS 265/295 plus sized by 2 on smaller rims to save weight and they are fantastic. I guess if I used std rated tires the softer side wall will make the handling iffy. However std size tires as specified by the manufacturer will be perfect provided you buy good tires like MPSS with the correct speed and load rate as indicated by Nissan. http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/miles-of-smiles/xl-vs-standard-load-tires-what-should-i-do

Look nice like the rest of your kitsðŸ‘. Send me a set over for proper testing and feedback.👀

Using simple paint theoretically can reduce intercooler performance but if you use heat dispersant paint, it should improve it as its designed to be very thin and conductive or heat resistant I used Eastwood black paint for radiators and had no issues with my SC setup. Also used it to touch up my oil cooler and paint my sc head unit black to match my powder-coated black intercooler pipe work. http://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-radiator-gloss-black-aerosol-340g.html

All eibach hubcentric spacers for the zed are in 5mm increments and product range is from 5mm to 30mm.

I've got got 10mm hub-centric spacers with extended bolts. I can swap for preferably 20 or 25mm spacers. Because I run so much front camber it makes my current 10mm spacing off as the top of the tyre is too tucked in. Vlad's info is correct. They are easy to swap. Just need to remove the wheels and brake disc and calliper out of the way and you just tap the OEM studs out backwards through the gap in the hub and then reverse the procedure with the extended bolts.

I can't believe I'll ever see this!! Papa you have taken it to the next level👠I love the calliper repainting and going for coilovers is what that car had been crying out for ages. I think at this rate we'll get you FI'ed next😄😄😄😄! Ps: can I send you by callipers for paint. I got the paint from brake calliper specialist and all but I'm too impatient to do this job correctly.

Never too late to which a dude happy birthday🎉🎊ðŸŽðŸŽ‚. Enjoy ðŸ‘

Dual rear calliper setup anyone? I think this is more robust effective and looks cool. There are bolt on kits to use OEM brembo or JDM brakes and a seperate system hydro. I would consider this strongly and add a line lock if your car is a pure track car. You can get rid of the stoooopid hand brake and even delete the drums etc to save on unsprung weight. Numerous threads on my350.com US on DIY if you prefer to make yours. http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/504240-dual-rear-calipers-ebrake.html http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/products/z33-g35-dual-caliper-bracket

They do eff all! Been tested several times with 5th gear, EVO and other independents. Snake oil may be better😄. Yo can use 95 for if push comes to shove but I would drive conservatively until top up with the 98 upwards. I once put £10 worth of 95 from a Murco on the off the motorway and the car drove rough and spluttered eventually stranding me on the road. Must have been water or dirt and the button of the tank of the Murco as I've played roulette several times with no issues or te fact the car was tuned for 99ron. Since then I will go out of my way to put 99 Tesco or shell v power. I don't even use BP or Esso 97.

I guess congratulations are in order😳

Ok so you found out yourself bravoðŸ‘

If you look closely at the side edge of the bulb facing the rear there is a small recess. Get a small rubberised flat head screwdriver or similar shape plastic tool and jam it into the recess. It releases a clip and you can take the whole housing outwards with the attached connection. Twist to remove the bulb from the reflector housing, switch bulbs the reverse procedure. The housing just clips in flush. You can use a normal small flathead with the tip covered in cloth rag or tape😉