GT4 Zed

Welcome Glenn. Very good choice of wheels. Always liked them black on an R34 GTR but is suits the zed very nicely too Regarding spacers and lowering, the Eiback kit is the best spacer/spring kit out there. It claims up to 30mm drop but in real life you get 20-25mm so you will be fine and always need to negotiate bumps carefully anyway The system 4 spacers is you want system and i am pretty sure the ET is 35 both axles which is not brilliant You need at least 20mm spacers in both front and rear But the only way to tell for sure what ET they have is to look in the inside of the wheel spoke, it is usually stamped there also with the wheel size Or if lazy then measure the wheel arch tyre gap and that gives you how much leeway you have give or take a little more to account for negative camber when the car is lowered.

Hi Matt, very exciting times ahead with this build As mentioned already my350z.com is a very good resource on high powered forged engined zed. You should have a word with the guys at GT motosports who are well known and even make their highly rated stuff and have their own turnkey power packages http://www.gtmotorsports.com Good luck with the build and keep us posted

Never heard one before or know anyone with one, but the clips/website is catchy and looks like the know what they are doing. Good price for y-pipe and exhaust comparable to japspeed. But all exhaust sound nice on clips and its always a good idea to listen to them live before choosing if possible. Go for it so long as there is no bad feedback on them

Nice

Thought you were going for a scorpion mate

Your talking about almost the size of a hair mate thats why they have a tollerence. Your car needs a degree of camber as it changes height depending on how you give it some beans and also how you go into corners. Also, as your on 19's is going to be a tad different to 18" stock and you are slightly lowered so the stock rear toe and camber adjustment may be on its limit for bringing it back in. Same with the front as there is little adjustment on the A-Arms. The reading isnt going to really help you, you just need to make a decision on which way you want to go and just get the parts installed for a better ride!! I disagree with you on this Mark The facts are that James has lowered his car and is running wide tyres and there is no argument about the fact that his geometry is out How can he decide to get parts when he doesn't know what is out or in or waay out? His main objective is to get the car to handle like it was before the changes ie stock and it is posible that with the small degree of adjustment OEM setup apart from the front camber everything can be brought back into specs. If there is not enough adjustment then he will have to get the part needed to get the into specs. He is not looking for track/race car handling which will certainly need uprated adjustable parts If he desides so at some point or now it is still important for him to undersatand what does what rather than just spend money and not achieve the handling characteristics he is after. The stock setup gives a good handling thats among one of the best balanced out there and unless you have specific requirements for the car there is usually no need to try and change ior improve it. Secondly, yes there is a range for each set up and it means that within this spectrum the car will handle within the manufacturers aimed characteristics which in a nutshell is safe high speed stability and understeer. However you have to mirror the settings closely on each side of the same axle and also aim for the synergy between front and rear by having a thrust angle or total toe of around 0deg if not you have will have issues. Even with fully adjustable suspension parts you can have the same issues if the setup is not right

Really good pics! Like the subtle black V1 spoiler mod Note to polish k1

Your money or your life

I think putting up the printout of the alignment before and after will be a good idea as some of the alignment chaps donot have a clue There is no such thing as "everso slightly" especially with Toe which has a very small range. Also on each axle you want to match the settings as close as posible within the nearest seconds rather than minutes As Mark said "saggy" suspension is a different kettle of fish and may imply the damper is gone or going but it will not explain tire wear and at 20k i doubt its the issue. Toe is the biggest culprit dynamically and camber over time.

D1 controller without a shadow of a doubt However heres a full list modding on a budget IMHO -new & used Looks: LED bulb upgrade in and out( parking lights, interior dome, boot and number plate) Detango all repeaters with silvertec bulbs Remove red fog light reflector and replace bulb with LED Replace OEM 4100K xenon with 6000k items for modern look 20mm hubcentric spacers all round lowering on Eibachs pro-springs(optional) Zmanalex chicken grill zed badges Performance: Upgrade performance filter D1 spec throttle controller or Uprev (optional) cat back exhaust K1, K2 or scorpion(optional) Upgrade pads. eg Ferodos DS2500 Lots of V power and cleaning products ..............not an option

Good work mate I can't wait to see you do the whole car for le Mans

Step in the right direction mate As discussed it is imperative that when you adjust a car's static ride height the is car properly aligned. The goal is to bring total front and rear toe settings to 0°, as toe is the major contributor to abnormally increased rate of tire wear. The common misconception is that camber causes increased rate of tire wear, when in fact camber's contribution to tire wear is usually only visible over the entire life of the tire. The factory settings aim to give you a very stable car in straight line with inherent understeer and good grip when cornering AFAIK: Front Camber range between -0.10 and -1.20 deg.(Not ajustable) Toe range: 0.00 to 0.05 degrees. Rears Cambered -1.05 to -2.05 range Toe:0.03 to 0.06 Lets see what you full geo printout comes up with

Don't even think twice about it Any side wall dammage is serious and renders a tyre ilegal too You will have to get replacements I had similar about a month ago and there was still 6mm of thread on the tyre

Very nice what about the fronts? 20mm maybe

Bump See my post on page 2 for a tentative trip plan and on page 3 for estimated cost if you were to spend 3 nights and do 25 laps As stated already departure is planned for friday 28th of May and return bank holiday monday 31th. i will start a seperate thread at the end of this month and request interested parties to put their names down or confirm they are likely going to make it! Please remove your names if not. From April i will begin to collect a small deposit to secure hotel and ferry booking 1-GT4 zed-------------------------------- May bank holiday or any other group date 2-ZedJohn ------------------------------- May bank holiday. Relatively flexible with holidays. 3-Sleg----------------------------------- May bank hloiday. 4-Glenn 1981----------------------------- May bank holiday is good for me! 5-Captain--------------------------------85% sure 6-?Roo 7-?Wizard 8-?Anubis 9-?swooper 10-Rob-Hughes-----------------------------Can't make it 11-?Thomasorenson 12-Andlid----------------------------------Unsure

would like to know this too Hi Ben, longtime mate There will be a very slight improvement of sprint time but due to the weight and gearing to get a significant drop in time then you need more power or cheaply drastically reduce weight or change final drive at the expense of top speed or improve on your lanch technique which is equally important or just get a quicker 0-60 car

yup, thats right too! Its all about product placing, emissions, reliability/longevity and much more . Nissan has to cater for all needs which is why uprev, D1 and every aftermarket manufacturer or tuners make a killing. You also have to account that drive by wire is a bit laggy unlike cable connected throttle which controls throttle electronically through pedal position sensors. Unfortunately slow response makes the car difficult and unpleasurable to drive. The D1 controls the voltage signal of the pedal and adjust the throttle to be more or less sensitive giving you can set up faster throttle response for a quick lauch or driving and even set slower throttle response for economy. IMHO for anyone not wanting to break the bank and wants to improve performance will keeping everything standard then this is a must because why else buy exhaust , CAIs etc if you will not make then work better with a remap

I have to aggree with Fiddy there are too many issues and with a better fit and in piano plack finish without the zed logo it will look But what matters it that you like it

Grant, your zed is f%@kin amazing now! welldone every one concerned i the bonnet too and will get one in a flash but need to swap/sell my oem bonnet first as i have so much zed bits that need to sell ;to free up space in my gararge) Did CS supply the bonnet? If so how about a GB CS? I had been talking to Lee about something similar as he can get a discount from the stealers bu he has disappered eversince

No! its 274.5 WHP and anywhere between 309-320 FWHP depending on your "accepted" drivetrain losses. i think Mark @ Abbey uses 35hp as std zed loss while @ Thor they claimed it was between 15-25% depending on the car and used 17% as an average In anycase good work by Mark and welcome to the remapped club and enjoy:teeth:

Hi james, i think the first thing to do is do a full geo check and realignment to factory specs and that might just give you the feel you need. looking at the pics(2) the seems to be some an increase degree of -ve camber the rear which i presume is a result of the drop with springs and thats not the 295 MPS With a full geometry check you will be able to tell if both sides are equal or if you are achieving factory settings without camber arms or toe bolts. My guess is there is an exagerated or unequal camber and or toe (because the factory unit is quite limited on adjustment and i doubt you can dial -ve 2.5-2.9 deg camber and also get the toe set within specs!) and this is made worse by the wide profile 295 tyres Only after checking and adjusting the alignment can you objectively say what needs uprating If camber and toe are all fine and you are having loads of roll then you might want to be aggresive with the their setting, but i thing you would need aftermarket camber/toe kit to do this. Next will be stiffer ARBs +/- adjustable droplinksand ultimately if not fully content then you need to reduce the CG and only coilovers can help you achieve that properly There are other things putting the right tyre pressures, worn bushes which can create a big disparity at the front camber arms which is not adjustable! you also have not commented about the attitude of the car which gives more info about what the suspension is doing all round. eg oversteer?, understeer? and damping? What springs are you using? they could be unmatched for the zeds dampers if its not a good brand like eibach as things like g-max etc donot really do any r&d and could sell saggy or overdamped/underdamped springs. Also donot let the tyres compromise the handling because you are worried it will rub if the correct setup means it will rub then roll the arches which will be cheaper that trying to upgrade stuff when the rea culprit is under your nose Suspension tuning is hard and takes time and i should now because i recently made my suspension fully adjustable and it took me $%^&&' tries to get it right for road use (track set up is relatively easily )

Husky don't tell me you have put those diabolical tyres on again BTW i love the lamp post GLWTS of the wheels someone will be happy as these are lovely and i still don't know why you wanna sell

rear brembos just ok....front ones i really doubt go for 20mm spacers...15 will be only just enough +1 Need 20mm for the flushed look

yep, needs full charge overnight or a good 10 mile now to get the alternator to juice up the battery