GT4 Zed

Chris i am surprised you had fitting issues with the k-sport as i had none and so did Craig(muddy) here. Before i got them back in early 09' fitting was one of the things i checked and the feedback from the evo and scoobie crowd was it was spot on and so was performance vs price. I have had only praise for the preformance of the kit and the only down side after almost 3yrs is the corrosion of the SS bits eg bolts and nipples. I can have it refreshed or get new ones cheap but can't be asked. I guess using a race compound pad does not help and even the known brands will suffer the same In any case you are doing a fantastic job and the colors are mind boggling I am surprised you have not painted the callipers or the rotor bells keep it coming we are all behind you to see the end product

Looking good Neil How light are those seats? The look OEM style as oposed to true buckets. Never been a fan of the bottle but the hidden instal of Wasso's bottle in the passenger side rear storage compartment makes for a good sleeper. Otherwise everything is is moving ahead full steam. Can't wait till you reveal the other mods!

Anyone going to this? I would expect to see regulars like R35Lee Will be attending saturday all day and hope to meet some forum members and get some bargains as well for the zed Post up if you ae attending

Ooohhhhhh poor fox How could you do that Seriously its just one of those things. I got a rabit into my foglight on my Alpina B3.3 and Sytner BMW to me to the cleaners £2500 is a reap off to get the repairs done for what you have quoted but we all know the stealers prices The Koyo 36mm or any within that size will fit without any mods AFAIK but the rest will require cuting the fan shroud to fit which is not so much of a big deal or you can get slimmer fans and shroud to keep it like OEM. My feeling is a combo of aftermarket parts and OEM fitting where applicable will be cheaper especially if you can get the labour cost down. The one thing you should check is you ac condenser for leaks. you should be able to repair the nismo bumper and mod it with the Zmanalex type grill I will be doing my rad upgrade and replace the leaking ac condenser but will do all the fitting and only pay for the ddegassing and regassing so works out not too bad

Ooohhhhhh poor fox How could you do that Seriously its just one of those things. I got a rabit into my foglight on my Alpina B3.3 and Sytner BMW to me to the cleaners £2500 is a reap off to get the repairs done for what you have quoted but we all know the stealers prices The Koyo 36mm or any within that size will fit without any mods AFAIK but the rest will require cuting the fan shroud to fit which is not so much of a big deal or you can get slimmer fans and shroud to keep it like OEM. My feeling is a combo of aftermarket parts and OEM fitting where applicable will be cheaper especially if you can get the labour cost down. The one thing you should check is you ac condenser for leaks. you should be able to repair the nismo bumper and mod it with the Zmanalex type grill I will be doing my rad upgrade and replace the leaking ac condenser but will do all the fitting and only pay for the ddegassing and regassing so works out not too bad

I have got OEM bonnet and skirts in Kuro black with GT rear boot spoiler if your deal falls through

I have got OEM bonnet and skirts in Kuro black with GT rear boot spoiler if your deal falls through

Congrats Chris Strong start to the new year

As said already this swap is an alternative to getting big power FI or 450-500whp Na with the right upgrade parts as an alternative to FI a built VQ block or NA bolt-on which is less reliable especially when running high boost. It is probably cheaper this route and parts/tuning options for LSx motors are cheaper in the states and so is labour. There are 3 main companies offering swap kits - Sikky (http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=27&catid=12) - Hinson (http://www.hinsonsupercars.com) - Chasebays (http://www.chasebays.com) But if you ever consider this swap then you have to do your homework first to address all the pros and cons. Pros: - availability of parts and tuning options - very easy to get 350-450whp as NA with intake cams etc) -More torque per comparable Hp level - very reliable engine - Can't beat the sound of a V8 - Cost the same or less to get the same level of power as a built VQ but obviouly more reliable. - cheaper to run on comparable power level Cons: - electrical side of things can be frustrating but solutions are more readily available. - cost of getting the engine ad Gb into the Uk and installed In general sikky swap kit is the almost bolt on but their wiring loom service is unreliable. Chasebays looms are best. Hinson have an overall unreliable service and very poor after sales care. There main issue most face is to get all the nissan guages/ speedo to work by integrating the nissan ecu in tandem with the GM ecu but if you are going to use a standalone ecu then it is less an issue. Note: Whatever LS enegine you go for you should be aware that the ancillaries are located differently so there may be issues fitting. The T56 gearbox is what you need for a bolt-on swap Other GBs eg T6060 will need modding to fit the existing kits. The safest route is to use the Ls2 and T56 GB from the GTO which is what most kits are base on and will fit with little or no need for modding. If money is no option then the GTO combo with stand alone ECU and digital race dash will get everything working like it was made that way. The other issue is getting the AC to work like OEM via the dial but there are solutions out there and if you car is soley for track use then you will have got rid of the AC anyway. See this link and bild threads on my 350z for all the info you may need. LS1 tech is also very useful. http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-driv ... hread.html It will be nice to see someone do it and it is likely Falcon will be first.( Spoke with R35lee at the classic car show at the NEC and these was on the pipeline )

Yep Ksports and D2 and by the same manufacturer who also make lot of the so called "big brands". AFAIK only AP do their stuff themselves. I have the Ksports and i'm very pleased. The most important is to match the pads for your application. PF 01 race compound are the best for track day and have good modulation for road use. Negatives are brake dust and cold squeal. DS 2500 will be perfect for road use and occasional trackdays. There are all parts available to service the brakes. If I were you, i would go for the new Ksport super 8 which is a a floating disc setup and normal 6pot at the rear. I will be selling my fronts BBK next year for the super 8 as i want 380mm disc to run semis lick tyres. You can have then for a good price if you are prepared to wait.

Have a look at this. http://www.plastics4performance.com/ Personally i would shave weight between the axles first by replacing the heavy heated seats with race buckets. I would only take weight over the rear axle to counter balance the weight gain of a half roll cage so the front to rear weight balance is maintained. Loosing the spare wheel and running half tank +/- carbon hatch with glass window is more than enough to loose supeflous pounds on the rear in a standard car IMO without affecting the bias too much Shaving off unsprung weight eg light weight wheels is most ideal as its a ratio of 1:4 per kg shaved and you improve your aceleration and braking performance. Same goes with the Lightweight flywheel. I just changed mine to JWTs and the car has been transformed for the better

Decats all the way and also the bungs on the K1. Took me ages and countless gaskets, bolts and torging of exhaust bolts to finally realise this At the Ring car park lot's of pips still belive my car is turbo'ed and i'm lying when i say its not

Nope! Slicks are not allowed on the Ring for TF or on any european road! I have always used Michelin pilot sports 2 N1 rubber and been very happy with it grip vs longevity. IF everthing goes to plan i would have race seats and harness for next season with a bit more power to boot and will run with semi slicks - R888.

Looking forward to this! Never been the drifting kind or enthusiast but do enjoy a spot of powersliding ever now and then when its a bit greasy and can appreciate the supreme skill it takes to be loose but in control delibrately. I can also relate to what and how you want to achieve your goals and in the end yours will be a big contribution to the forum in general I like your style

+1 I have had the ksport 356mm kit front 8pot and rear 6pot since erly 2009 now married to PF 01 race compund and i can't decribed enough how good this setup is for track use but even for road use its still very good and "behaves" like a road pad. last year i did 5 trips to the ring with never under 20laps per weekend and it never fades. Just gets better with heat it them. As the Zman pointed they squeal occasionally when cold and makes alot of dust so unless you clean your wheels everyday they will be ruined. They are aggresive on rotors but it is an acceptable trade off and i change front rotors once a year and still haven't touched the rear which still have 70-80% of life left Rotors come in at under £300 a pair. Thankfully I have only changed the pads once in my 2years of ownership as they are close to £400 for the 356mm callipers. In all i always recommmend the ksport and commbined with PF 01 race pads is a marriage made in heaven.

Edited my intial post BTW but you got my drift and answered my question Now when do i book my zed for a full underbody make over

keyser, are all those sandblasted parts not going to get surface rust corrosion being exposed without primer? It will spoil all your good work surely in the long run. Correct me if i'm wrong

The RX8 is even worse than that fuel cap sticker Otherwise that zed is very tasty

It just gets better and better every update on your progress Subscribed so i don't miss any update. This is going to be one happy zed at the end of it all Are you going to do a body respray? I think you should consider a zed restoration service in the future

Nice work as usually Anders It was always going to be problem solving along the line until evrything is perfect for years of safe enjoyment you know Did you get the Pathfinder cooling upgrade mod when you were building the engine? cheap and good for cooling of the rear compartment. see: http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/ind/ ... grade.html I would also consider a nismo or mishimoto thermostat; cheap insurance Leaving out a larger radiator was an oversight Make sure you get some decent coolant like Motul inugel when installing your rad. Though not related to your temp issues at some point you will probably go for larger wheels/tyres for more traction so a PAS cooler upgrade will be needed. A nismo upgrade cooler or even the GTR cooler(Tube and fin like the OEM or Nismo but much longer with more fins. Should fit bolt on.) will be better and cheaper than the often sold plate and fin type coolers like Stillen's etc which stress the PAS pump further as there is more flow resistance accross the plates. Pm me about the guages and pics of what you have. Maybe interested .

Nice of you to bring back your epic journey with the zed especilly for new members to model their ideas on. I still can't believe you and Nurrish for selling so quickly after going FI Anyway you got your dream come true with the R34 and can see that a well sorted zed is a bloody good drivers car to own BTW did you have any fitment issues(eg interference with the streeing column) with the DC headers and also did you go for ceramics or SS?

Here you go....not that hard to do

Do you have the tanabe midchassis brace in stock. Could be tempted as i can do it sametime as my clutch and solid mounts but i would even prefer pulleys if you got stock now