evest

Until a proper Ferrari pulls up next to you...

The earlier engines are potentially a little bit gruntier lower down whereas the later engines provided more horsepower and torque across the range. The HR was nearly a completely new engine so different redline part of the overall design. Your plenum spacer and other mods will provide more power but only with the benefit of a custom remap to tune the engine. Plenty of dyno evidence of the improvements available on here. I doubt it's a good idea to increase the DE rev range by too much as it wasn't designed for it and how often do you drive in the 6000-7000 range on the road? IMO best to maximise potential in the existing rev range to ensure you don't knacker your engine. Good luck!

What a tease! Any chance that a vortech kit is taking up too much space?

Depend where you're putting them - do mean a raised central 'ram air' style duct or vents at the sides etc? Best to post up some pics if what you're trying to achieve

Whoa! Neggers cheggers! Definitely no need to remove the plenum: 1. disconnect battery 2. strut brace off 3. airbox and pipe off 4. coil packs out (will need to temporarily shift a few brackets/looms) cylinder 5 is a PITA! 5. Swap plugs (if you're feeling old school, check new spark plug gaps with a feeler guage to be sure they're good) 6. Replace everything in reverse order 7. Job's a goodun, cup of tea! Also a good opportunity to check condition of old plugs for any sign of engine issues (crusty tips, oil on the threads, etc...) (Although if you do remove the plenum, you may as well take the opportunity to put a plenum spacer in! )

I see you're in Manchester - clearly a good lad then! Check out Lockwood & Greenwood in audenshaw - highly recommended by many on here for servicing, repairs etc.. Think they still do a forum discount too

Ps - welcome to the forum!

Probably worth a full service really. See how the battery fares and take it easy whilst the various oils recirculate around the moving parts. If its had no problems previously you should be okay. Lots of different exhausts out there and HFCS are a popular mod as well. Most will save weight and improve sound etc.. not sure on real power gains without a remap though.

Start engine and reach under with some tissue near the flange. If it wafts about you have a leak. Maybe just needs new gaskets. Best to get a full stainless steel cat-back to be on the safe side though!!

The only way to get it overturned is to go to court, but don't do that unless you have an iron-clad defence as they will always be inclided to back up the police and you'll end up facing court costs as well as the original fine. Whichever you cut it, their position will be that it's your car and you driving it and they saw you 'lose control of it', blah, blah... even if you prove you're an awesome driver and regained control instantly, they'll hit you with 'so how did it happen in the first place then, if you're so good'... In my opinion, don't even bother with the tyres stuff - it will get totally dismissed and countered with "so you're blaming michelin? how come everyone else with new tyres doesn't lose the back end...". Even if they have no footage of fit - it's not as simple as your word against theirs - they have the evidence of you're conversation with the copper at the time about what happened which is sufficient proof that it did indeed happen. You'd probably need to prove there was oil on the road or something outside your control mate to even have a chance. It sucks the big one, but for three points and £100, I would take the hit mate.

Confused by their dyno sheet - the figures at the top indicate a drop in max torque/power output... albeit gains over stock in the 5500-6500 range. Surely it would better to stay stock and shift at 5300 - 54000 rpm based on their graph?

I removed the steering rack to do mine mate. Don't think it's possible with it in place - even if it we're I'd argue removing it is a far easier method! It's fairly straight forward to remove it, just make sure everything is lined up correctly when you re-install. Good luck!

I wonder if he can do the Kessel run in less than 12 parsecs...

Through no choice of my own I once ran some Nankang 'Star Performers' oN my zed... I was still 'breaking them in' after 600 miles!!

Not necessarily. Depends if the outer diameter of the whole wheel+tyre has changed. Ie - 18" wheel with fat tyres could be the same outer diameter as 19" wheels with skinny tyres.

Hi mate, i'll take one if there are any left. Cheers **no longer needed as bought a 06 airbox, cheers :-)

They wrapped a f**king Doblo? As if it isn't fugly enough to begin with!!

After reading this I decided the put my stock airbox back in (was running a Takeda Attack Short Ram). Genuinely feels like I've just gained (well... replaced) a nice chunk of low -mid power. Not remapped or tested on a dyno yet but it's on the list... A mate of mine has a boosted Lotus Esprit so we're on a friendly bet to see who can top 300bhp first - just for the hell of it!!

I'm sure we've all done a dodgy overtake at some point. It's very frustrating when people drive so, so slowly that the temptation is there. I believe the cameras are really only there to check people haven't broken down on the level crossing or some other obstruction. Doubt you'll get your collar felt.

I'm biased but I would rather mod a 350 so opion 1 of your list. At 120K miles, consider doing your suspension bushes, diff bushes too and some adjustable coilovers, droplinks etc... all will improve handling. The handling setup is the best place to throw money if you want a better drive. Remap is worth it, especially if you have some other breather mods (Headers is a lot of work for the gains but up to you) HFC and decent zorst good idea for performance and sound too. List is endless really, all down to budget. 370Z rims look great on a 350z and you can always get a respray down the line - custom to whatever you want.

It sounded similar to completely worn brake pads on a brake disc - that metal on metal grinding sound at low speed. I got the impression that the oil wasn't lubricating as it should. Can't really say at higher speed due to the exhaust noise and I didn't drive very far once I noticed the problem. I think other folks have had problems with non-nissan gear oil too. That said, I used motul 300 LS in the diff and no problem there.

No quite but I've forgotten to put the dipstick back in before driving. Explained the blue smoke on full throttle!

I may be wrong mate but I believe that 'black' discs do not stay black once the coating has worn off.

Don't worry mate - there will be no issues with rods unless power/torque is increased massively - way, way more than a N/A remap could provide.

I recently used motul 300 and it did not agree with the gearbox. Immediately changed back to correct OEM stuff from Nissan and it's sorted. Worth a try mate, it will eliminate that variable at least.