evest

I have installed the Denso Iridium plug - if you he will tell you what you need for your car (I don't know if JDM is the same as UK for this) and I think he can supply them. I think there is a guide on here for how to do it. The magnetic sump plug replaces the normal sump bolt when you do the engine oil change - the magnet then draws any tiny metal particles out of the oil as it passes through the sump, helping to protect your engine. Don't worry mate - I knew nothing about cars when I got my Zed - I learnt loads on here so ask away!

A good panel filter in the stock airbox is the better choice for power. An aftermarket cone style intake can give a better noise but may cost a bit of power - but probably not noticeable for normal driving. Oil - Fuchs Titan Race 5w30 is my choice - good stuff.

Even if it was genuine - I would not be using Paypal - imagine the charges for the amount of money in a car sale!

"Cobra Kai" "Cobra Kai" "Cobra Kai"

I have the Cobra - fitted at UK Exhausts in Sheffield where they make 'em! http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=42545&start=0 Not had any issues with it - excellent fit and sounds great! You're looking at around the £600 fitted for the cat-back system, and you get a choice of exit tips!

I thought a filter would outlast that sort of oil change frequency? This pump idea sounds like it could be quite handy (not to mention quicker) for those doing frequent oil changes - just so long as it gets all the old stuff out. Anyways, my advice is: just don't do an orthodox oil change in the wind. I ended up looking like a friggin' dalmation!

Might struggle to get the oil filter off with it

As luck would have it I've just installed a plenum spacer today so I won't be needing my original set of nuts and bolts! PM your details and I'll send them out to you.

Yet another example of Top Gear ignorance... They'll probably want paying

Ah missed that it was an import! At a guess, perhaps its to do with the radio frequencies it is set up for overseas?

Probably fixable, standard HU is notoriously pants mate - I've had enough of mine, hoping to go AEM soon. You'll need some additional wiring looms to hook AEM up to the steering wheel controls etc... Plenty of example and advice on different set ups in the ICE section.

I use 5w30 - this is the recommended SAE - personally I go for Silkolene Pro-S (it's now called Titan Race - same stuff). I buy from Opie Oils, you can get a discount for being a member on here! Brand is a personal choice, but go for fully synthetic - lot of info here: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11431&start=0

The standard tyres are RE040's all round - not as good as the RE050's so perhaps the previous owner was in the process of upgrading? You have standard sizes on and I think standard PSI is 36 - there should be a little plaque on the driver door frame - if not the manual should have it.

Indeed! So far I've done the short ram intake, Cobra cat-back exhaust and now the plenum spacer. Really just want to put some lightened pulleys on first, but I'm wiped out for this month! Will keep it in mind though

Not the first and certainly not the last to do so!!! Got a Motordyne Plenum Spacer for ZMANALEX (usually great service) it's the 5/16" ISO Thermal one. Installed it today and am pleased to say it went (almost) without a hitch - I managed to round off one the engine cover bolts as I had to rush toward the end! Ah well, not the end of the world, will sort it next week. Not done the coolant control valve yet as ran out of time. The car felt great afterwards; I'm sure it had a slightly deeper growl and seemed to pull a bit better. Didn't get any CELs or anything so all good. Really pleased with the mod, and got a bit more confidence from doing it - never had the lower plenum off before, but all went well. If I can offer any advice to anyone thinking of doing it I would say this: I don't have much mechanical experience but was able to do it in 2hrs without any problems (apart from being a bit clumsy with the aforementioned bolt!). The instructions included are very clear and easy to follow. Apart from normal hand tools, I would recommend investing in a low range torque wrench with a range capable of 4-5 NMs upwards - this is to ensure the bolts are tightened properly so the seal is good. Oh and leave enough time to avoid rushing anything...schoolboy error there! Happy

mate, induction kit easy to do yourself. There are a several people on here that can help you with body kits (and everything else too!) - check out the traders section. Looking forward to some pics when you get the car! What colour you going for?

No worries - hope this helps

Would be very convenient - but you would risk not getting an exact colour match which would be a shame. Best to take it to a bodyshop with the car so they can get it perfect

Beavis - very May I ask what are the wheels in your first picture? I like 'em! Cheers

Near Brine Leas High School about 1130 today. Wave/flash exchanged

Interesting post mate. For me, she's a daily runner with 25miles each way so I need to be hitting the 30mpg mark too make things economical. Fortunately I have plenty of twisty A roads, so keeping it passively between 50-60 mph to achieve this still make for a reasonably drive. The main thing I have adjusted to is lighter pulling away and slowing down - has made a noticeable difference.

Tarmac, Count me in and willing to commit the money. (I've wanted a Chargespeed rear for a very long time!!)

Unlucky mate. If paint is intact then it can be repaired to look new. I would get a professional mobile repair to do it though; if you're not careful you could stretch/break the paint. Had a similar thing, cost me about £50.

A mate of mine runs this: http://www.thesatnavwarehouse.com Unfortunately he gets a lot of customers trying to blame it on him when they subsequently get caught speeding!!! If there is much interest in these systems then I could see if he wants to work out some kind of members discount, etc...?