evest

Thanks mate, appreciate the input - I'll certainly replace the gaskets as they've been on there a few years. Seems odd that a leak there would have this impact on the upstream sensor - but if it fixed your issue i guess it must do!

Hello all, Bit stumped - wonder if anyone can help me? Car is suffering a rough idle and also occasionally cutting out when coming of the throttle and coasting into a stop - not every time though; the revs sometimes dip almost to 0, and then jump back up to normal - other times the car will stall. I do have fault code P1283 which I know may relate to one of the upstream O2 sensors, but I'm not convinced (yet) that the sensor is necessarily the problem. So apart from the car struggling at idle, particularly when coming of the throttle, I've sat and monitored the car at warm idle, as follows: Car idles warm at about 8-900rpm which I believe is normal. However, like clockwork every 10 seconds it dips to about 500-700rpm and struggles for 5 seconds before returning to normal. This also had an effect on the sensor readings: (approximately) Bank 1, sensor 1 = 0.25V (when idle rpm dips, this goes to 0) Bank 1, sensor 2 = 0.75V (when rpm dips, this rises to about 0.9) Bank 2, sensor 1 = 0.25V (as above, dips to 0) Bank 2, sensor 2 = 0.75V (as above, rises to about 0.9) It feels like the sensors are responding correctly, or at least working. My plugs were done about 25K miles ago. I recently cleaned the MAF sensor and I don't have any obvious signs of a vacuum leak. Do I have a fuelling issue - injectors? Car seems to be pulling fine at normal speed and acceleration has felt normal. At the moment - I'm inclined to try a new MAF sensor and do all the reset procedures. Any clue from the info above though? Car is a 2003 DE at 165K miles, using normal 5w30 oil. The only other thing I changed recently was putting in a HKS filter (standard airbox).

For those interested - pic of splitter - I think it is the exact same model, if not very similar. This is dry-fit to my car (not painted, etc...) - haven't got round to fitting it properly either! Seems a very good fit.. As you can see - it is for pre-facelift, so not sure it would fit the later facelift models.

Hi all, Been losing coolant for a while, traced it to a leaky hose. Its the one that connects to the underside if the upper intake manifold, near the throttle body. Pic below (complete with coolant pi$$ing out!): Anybody know where I can one? Ta, Steve

Aye, 10 years now, 45K miles when I got her. 159K now and still pulls like a train. Always just makes me very happy. Keeper.

Still got the nostril but I don't know if there is much, if any power gain, but I guess it can't hurt to get cold air in the airbox (which I refitted for performance over bling...) Eyelids..... went colour match after a while, much better look (I actually hate that top picture now!!) I've now got rid completely though as didn't like the idea of blocking part of the headlamp.

I'll take it please mate! PM on its way

Thanks davey_83. I've done as you suggested and it seems to have solved my problem - now idling at 1200ish cold, and no cut out at roundabouts either, so good man! I feel a little foolish for having ruled this out but at least the problem is solved. Will keep close eye on it over the next few weeks anyhow. Cheers bud

Hello all, I've read though a few threads with similar problems but can't pin this down and want to investigate further before throwing new parts at it. Anybody had/seen the same issue? Car: 350Z DE '03 plate, 147K miles Problem: Car starts (cold) and goes to normal revs but then almost immediately the revs dip and bounce around at low level. After a 5 seconds or so, the engine revs go back up to the correct level (albeit with very small fluctuations). After another 10 seconds or so, it drops back to low levels, struggles and eventually stalls. Even if I open the throttle to increase revs, the response is not instant but it will then start to raise the revs to the level I determine. However, when releasing the throttle the revs will drop back to idle setting briefly before dying away again and stalling the engine. I've also had the engine cut out at low revs when coming to a normal stop. Otherwise drives normally. No EML or fault codes stored. Recent work: New oil sump fitted (by me) with top up of correct oil. Coolant changed. Uprev about 6 months ago. Other things: Stock '06 airbox fitted with clean filter. MAF looks clean. Throttle body cleaned out a couple of months ago. Battery is fine and holding standard charge. Fluids all seem fine. Running Shell V-power, plenty of fuel in tank (possibly bad batch of fuel? But seems unlikely) Spark plugs changed about 5000 miles ago (I haven't checked them recently but no reason to suspect they're faulty). I had an O2 sensor issue a while back, but cleaned the sensor and have no further problems or fault codes since. Not sure whether this is a fuelling issue or sensor related. I've had the same issue before but it has usually gone away after a day or two and not repeated for several weeks. Any help much appreciated!

http://www.ebay.co.u...b4AAOSwcUBYU2wp Seems tempting at that price...?

Welcome to the forum mate :-) Will have a used Cobra up for sale soon bud, watch out for the ad in the trading post!

Well start with a compression test - easy to do yourself and the kit is only about £25 (gunson compression tester). May as well combine with a spark plug change if they're due... you could always put leak down test in the wanted section to see if any other zedders nearby can help?

It's up to you but a complete engine overhaul done properly will be expensive and no point replacing parts if there's nowt wrong with them. I reckon at least start with investigating where the oil is going and take it from there mate... Get a leak down test done and see what crops up.

Well I had the UpRev at Abbey Motorsport today and my car did pretty well considering the age/mileage. Many thanks to Mark and the team for the warm welcome, tea and toast, and of course the results! (Thanks also to Chris at TarmacSportz for getting the new 'zorst to me in time to fit it yesterday ready for the trip to Abbey Model: 2004 GT VQ35DE (144,232 miles) Mods: Berks HFCs, Invidia Gemini cat-back, Motordyne 5/16 Plenum spacer, '06 Airbox with Apexi filter, AMS lightweight pulleys. Dyno: Dynapack (Abbey Motorsport) BHP: 262.4 WHP (+20.4) Torque: 232.8 flbs (+18.9)

http://tinyurl.com/j3k4ytf Have a look here - might be useful. Different options out there but just think about what is cost effective. Good luck!

What mileage is it and are you having any problems with the car mate? Shouldn't be necessary to rebuild it unless you're loosing lots of power/oil etc...

UpRev at Abbey Motorsport today. Many thanks to Mark and the team for the warm welcome, tea and toast, and of course the results! (Thanks also to Chris at TarmacSportz for getting the new 'zorst to me in time to fit it yesterday ready for the trip to Abbey Model: 2004 GT VQ35DE (144,232 miles) Mods: Berks HFCs, Invidia Gemini cat-back, Motordyne 5/16 Plenum spacer, '06 Airbox with Apexi filter, AMS lightweight pulleys. Dyno: Dynapack (Abbey Motorsport) BHP: 262.4 WHP (+20.4) Torque: 232.8 flbs (+18.9)

yea its got APS decats fitted Oh yeah just re-read the 1st post! You could always try it with no back box to get a rough idea! Not too early in the morning though... Good luck but I reckon be sure before you hack it up mate.

You running hfc's too?

Do they mention what sort of volume they're getting? Don't know about the tone you'll get but surely taking out the muffler is going to give you plenty of noise but this could be an MOT fail? IMHO you'd be better off selling your Miltek and getting a system that suits your needs as it comes mate. Otherwise you might be left with a franken-zorst that you don't like!

OK - just seems too much of a coincidence that both cats would go like this just after you got the car and changed fuel. Perfect opportunity to upgrade to some HFC's...?

Note - this is for earlier 350Z models but I would expect torque settings to be similar.

What's the mileage. Just thinking it might be dirty O2 sensors causing an error code to appear. I had error code so cleaned the O2 sensors and have had nothing since.

Where to find specs for these nuts? Factory service manual if you have one. PM me if not and i'll send you the file

What code are you getting?