evest

ps - I have a dremmel!

I made my own 'cold air intake' a while back, and then added a slam panel: A piece of flex connected to the bumper nostril: The added the slam panel with the 'guide' funnel bit on it: Not sure the slam pannel helps all that much since I have a piece of flex in the way underneath it. But then I bought it for appearances anyway. Couldn't say that this set up definitely increases cold air the the cone filter, but I'm fairly sure it can't hurt the chances of it. What I really need to do is build a heat shield for the intake - shame the Takeda didn't come with one.

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/82117-370z-wheels-on-the-350z-pics/ This is the 370Z wheels look like; maybe not what you're after but gives you an idea of what 19" will look like. Not lowered. Good luck!

Hi all, So my diff filler bolt is stuck fast and I'm currently going through the various methods of getting it out. Failing that I'm looking at getting a new diff cover. Does anybody know if you can remove and replace the rear cover without dropping the pumpkin - and if so would that actually be easier or more difficult than dropping the pumpkin anyway. Cheers

I've found that when you do the reset procedure, it's best to do it with the door closed (or hold the door switch in) - if you try to reset with the door open the car kinda gets confused. Mine did anyway!

Hi mate, Mine has just over 120K on the clock and is running just fine. To be honest you will only know if it's decent by inspecting it closely and test driving it. It's entirely feasible for a car with 100K on the clock to be in better condition than one with half the mileage - it really depends on how it's been driven and cared for; if it's up and down the motorway at 70mph then it will keep going more or less forever! The one in the ad looks very clean and completely stock from what can be seen - but hard to tell until you get under the bonnet. If it had been modified in any way, that isn't a bad thing but it's just good to know what's been done. Doesn't look to be many stone chips on the front bumper so maybe hasn't been driven all that fast - have a close look when you buy. Good to see it has had a new clutch - check the service history carefully to make sure it's had the major services in particular. Check the exhaust where the mid pipe meets the back box - can be known to break away on some zeds. Good luck mate

You need 5W-30 mate. The brand is up to you but personally I buy from Opie Oils, and I get Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-30.

Ah no worries dude! Welcome

:lol:

It may be that the small rubber pipe that connects to the washer arm has popped off? I'd start by checking at the wiper arm end and then following it along it to see if it has come off anywhere else. Good luck.

Cheers guys - appreciate the sympathy and the general direction the discussion then took!! :lol: Back on topic, if the filler bolt wont come out after penetration oil, heat, etc... then I plan to drain again, remove the LSD cover and attack the bolt from the inside. If that fails, then I'll have to get my hands on a new cover (maybe a NISMO one!) Can anybody tell me if it is possible to remove the cover without having to take the whole diff off the car? Cheers!

"my wrench was simply deforming the female hex slot". I like the sound of that, lol! :lol:

Thanks mate, I'll look into in!

All options we're being considered about 2 hrs ago, includimg turning her upside down! ! But I'll try a wire brush and plentry of Wd40 first!!

Me that is... So I decided to change my LSD oil today, as the car is now over 10 years old and has over 120K on the clock, I thought it wouldn't do any harm. To keep it short, all I'll say is: make sure you can get the filler bolt out BEFORE you take the drain bolt out! Yes - total moronic lack of common sense... and you can imagine my despair when said filler bolt wouldn't budge and my wrench was simply deforming the female hex slot. Well, in a procedure that was messier than a bad day in the Funhouse (remember that?!) I managed to pump 2 litres of oil in through the drain hole whilst simultaneously trying to plug it with my free(ish) hand. With the amount of oil that escaped during this, I have ended up, more or less, with the specified 1.4 litres in there and the car is thankfully running fine. I'll still be getting some penetrating oil or something to try and get the filler bolt off to check the level properly though... I'm sure that there will be at least one other person out there who will try and do the same thing, so, if you're reading this - learn from my mistake and check that filler bolt first!!!

Hi mate, I'm no expert here but you would probably need various grades of wet 'n' dry sandpaper from 800 - 1500, primer, colour matched paint and clear laquer. All of this will be cracking on for about £30 anyway. What colour do you have? If you have a metallic colour then it will be difficult to get an exact colour match due to the way the metallic flecks fall - best left to a pro. A solid colour is easier. For the procedure - probably best to google it to be honest, loads of guides out there. For a small part like a wing mirror you can probably get away with using spray cans. TBH, I agree with KyleR - for the money spent it will probably work out better value for a pro to do it, particularly if it's metallic paint. Good luck

Hi mate - did you by any chance go to Poynton High School? Just used to know a guy there called lee bottrill and wondered if you were the same man? Welcome to Zed ownership and the associated zeditis....

Hi mate, Mine was sorn all winter too and I had pretty much exactly the same problem as you - jump started it but it only went into limp mode with various error codes. Here is my thread: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/80096-p1211-throttle-control-actuator/ Before you take it to a garage, get the car started and let it run for a good 20-30 mins to get the battery charged up and then take it for a drive. Hopefully this will get your battery back up to proper operating capacity. You will then need to do an ecu reset to clear the fault codes. After that it should hopefully be fine - if any error codes return then get them checked out. Good luck

thanks mate, ill get her serviced and checked over and see how that goes.

*age

hi mate, definitely interested. I've got 120K on the clock so understand it may be advisable to get a compression and leak down test done before installing nos? the car is running fine but are there there any issues with that kind of engine use/agw? cheers, :-)

Hi mate, I've just ordered some VHT paint today for a project on another part of the engine - I'm spraying the rocker covers. Just search VHT paint on ebay. You can get the primer, enamel and lacquer etc. I think the main UK distributors are Jim Woolfe Racing and US Automotive - they both sell on ebay. I'm no expert but I guess these would be the things to go for. I think some people get their powder coated in order to get the perfect finish. Good luck!

Seems like a grey area to me - the manual states that 'where fitted, they must work' ok - fair enough. But if they're not fitted what then? It only says that cars with xenon headlights may be fitted with washers - not that they must be?? I asked if I reomoved the system altoghether, would I then be exempt from the test - the guy said no. As suggested, I guess I need to find the right guy.

I'm sure this has been mentioned before but with xenon headlights you must have headlight washers and if fitted, they have to work - someting to do with dirty xenon headlights causing dazzle. Fair enough - however my arguement of "but my headlights are never dirty" didn't hold much sway! Yep, and I think the words "oh for f@ck's sake" actually came out of my mouth... Well, they do work when they're connected, but I disconnected mine because they're a PITA and keep sticking out... but, there goes a couple of hours connecting them back up again... So... what's the deal with aftermarker bumpers?

hi mate, not the exact size you want, but I've got six 245/45/18 if you're interested. 2 x falken ziex ze914, good condition with about 5-6mm tread. 2 x hancook wintercept evo, good condition with about 5-6mm tread. 2 x nankang star performer, hardly used with about 7mm tread. im in henlow, beds so about an hour and a half away. let me mnow if you're interested in any of these :-)