introspect

I reckon yellow callipers will look awesome against the black wheels Make sure you get some pictures up when it's all done!

I'd be careful about just clearing the code, it may get rid of the dash light, but it doesn't fix the underlying issue. I'm no expert, but personally I'd get it checked out, an engine running lean isn't something that should be ignored!

ask Chris (chesterfield) about the wet finger trick

If it's anything like 'hide the sausage' then I think I'll give it a miss!

Think I found an empty fag packet in mine once

Might be worth having a look at this thread before you buy new discs http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32481

We need all cars to arrive at same time to issue car pass for club stand

 

Set-up Sign 07.00

Cars can enter and set-up from this time on-site. We want all cars in position and in there static

displays from 09.00 as the public enters the show.

 

Shall we say lets meet at 8.00am at the entry point. Gives us enough time to set up. Dont think we'll need more.

 

 

Everybody good with this?

Fine with me

Looks like your service schedule is a bit messed up, I would give it a P3 and then start from scratch after that.

Got mine, Thanks Mike

That thing's got too much torque for it's own good, it'll put creases in the road!

1. Marzman

2. Nurrish

3. Fakeindian (if not working)

4. UNABASHED (to confirm)

5. ChrisS + Son(14) hope thats OK?

6. Chesterfield +1

7. Madmarky

8. Introspect

Free is the best price of all, so count me in

Vauxhaull VXR8

Definitely a "strong" look

I think the drum on the back would be for the handbrake so shouldn't be there on the front

Valveman, do you have a printout of the dyno results? Would be really interesting to see.

de cats and a drop in panel filter will see more gains, especially if its tweaked with RS tuning. and the XYZ pipe that abbey do

I would suggest going for sports/race cats instead of de-cats. Saves having to remove them every time you MOT the car and the difference in performance is quite small. The XYZ pipe also works really well. I am getting about 320hp (flywheel) with a stock exhaust, XYZ pipe, Kinetix sports cats and a HKS filter - and of course a remap done at Abbey.

Bloomin 'eck 320bhp! That's a fantastic result. Do you have any other mods or is that all from the exhaust/filter?

de cats and a drop in panel filter will see more gains, especially if its tweaked with RS tuning. and the XYZ pipe that abbey do

+1 High flow/de-cats and a replacement y-pipe should get you more gains. Stick with the stock intake and get a free flowing panel filter.

Had mine done at RS in January and was very pleased with the results

Can't really tell how low it is at the moment from those pics. I think it's just a case of trial and error with the height. As long as it doesn't look like it's on stilts you'll be fine.

If you've got Tein coilovers then you can adjust them yourself pretty easily I would have thought. Did you get a set of C spanners with the car?

Might be worth a PM to ZMANALEX

Thanks Husky, much appreciated

dont over torque the bar tensioner.

the bar will bow and if it is already spaced to allow a plenum spacer underneath it will interfere with bonnet and if bad enough damage your bonnet.

 

as already mentioned you dont need to go wild when tightening it.

When loosening the centre nut on the bar is it just a case of counting how many complete turns you make and tightening by the same number of revolutions when putting it back on?

I know I've said it before but you don't actually need to take the strut bar off to change the spark plugs!

It would certainly make access easier but it can be done without.

When I did mine I didn't actually have a big enough spanner for the nuts on the bar so it stayed where it was, a little fiddly in places but very do-able.

Yeah I saw that post, but I've got a plenum spacer so I think I'll need to remove the strut bar in order to get the engine cover off.

Thanks for the pic, just what I wanted

Cool, thanks for that guys

slacken of the two outside ones then turn the inside one to slacken the bar, you will see the thread moving into the bar.

 

then take the 3 bolts out each side and then the 1 nut each side and it will come off, if its awkward you need to turn the middle nut on the bar. dont forget there are some bits of harness clipped to it. The torque values and procedure for putting it back on are contained within the workshop manual which is downloadabel

 

EDIT: like the PDF above

Thanks guys, I've downloaded the PDF above. So is it just a case of counting how many revolutions of the centre bolt that you make, and then doing it in reverse when you're putting it back on?

Also, and this might be a stupid question, but what do you use to torque the two outside nuts on the bar? I have a torque wrench but I don't see how that will help with the nuts on the actual bar.