hynder

Hi Guys, just been reading through this old thread and would like to add my recent install. Its a Laser Star XR Parking sensor which also operates on the same wavelength as Laser Speed Cameras. If it detects a laser from a camera then it sends a laser beam back which diffuses the speed which then gives you enough time to slow down and switch your Jammer off. Don't want to arouse too much suspicion!!!!! Anyway, the main reason I bought a sensor was that I was paranoid I was going to crack the front of my new Vertex Aero kit and after a bit of research I found this unit. It is completely legal I got it from roadnetuk.com and have integrated the controls into the little panel by the rearview mirror. I have an imported Z and the panel was for Auto DJ and Carwings which was not being used since I have upgraded the Nav system. It hasn't been used in anger yet but it has been really helpful when parking though. It was a tricky wee install but I am chuffed with it. I've attached a few pics of the install.

Hi Guys, some good ideas for brackets there. I'd like to give another idea which is really simple and cost about £7 from B&Q. All you need is the following. Length of M16 threaded rod (stainless would be the best bet) M16 nut Length of 25mm x 25mm angled aluminium stock 16mm inside diameter rubber hose or 20mm diameter black conduit. M4 bolt 3.5mm drill and M4 tap Basically the threaded rod has a slot cut into it so that the front angled aluminium stock can be fixed without it twisting. The rod is then screwed into the Tow Eye Bolt hole and secured with an M16 nut at the rear. The conduit is then slid over it fro protection and asthetics. The angled stock is then screwed onto the M16 rod and the bracked can be drilled to suit whatever size plate you have. This is ideal for an open vent bodykit like the Vertex which I have but should be pretty easy to install on the standard kit also. Hope this may help anyone looking for ideas.

When you say that you want to reset the ECU, what exactly do you mean? Is your Malfunction Indication Light (MIL), which looks like a small engine on? The OBD11 is a standard connection for diagnostic tools which basically allow the user to identify faults and system parameters by means of codes and it can clear the MIL light. It does pretty much the same job as the throttle pedal method but is easier use. I was recently upgrading my ICE to include a TV tuner and I disconnected the CAN bus under the stereo. I started the ignition as a test and switched it off. The MIL light came on with a code relating to the ECU. I then reset the light using the pedal method which works fine.

There was a black plastic surround supplied with the head unit which I trimmed down to fit inside the double din space which filled in the gap between the head unit and the trim.

Some more pics of my install. These links are quite useful too. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... sc&start=0 This was a link from the digital Car forum which helped me with the TV tuner install. http://www.digital-car.co.uk/forum/show ... 0z+install

Dany, How you getting on with the head unit? I have just completed an ongoing install complete with the pioneer head unit. I have a Jap Import Z with sat nav (in japanese) and I was wanting to get as much use out of the screen as possible. I ended up integrating a DVB TV tuner into the system which works pretty well but isn't too cheap as I had to order a PAC VCI X video interface from the states. Other parts of the install was a 10" sub woofer, 750W amp, steeringwheel interface and CD changer (cos I had one from and old car). I'll post another couple of pics on the next post.

Danny, Just wondering if you have the parts for the sat nav cubby left? If so, is it a motorised lid? If it is a motorised lid then how much would you be looking for it? I'm basically looking for the interface unit screwed to the back of the triple meter cluster, the ribbon cable and the lid with motor. Can you help? Cheers Alan

This ebay shop supplies plastic sheets in 3mm or 5mm which you could cut to size to fill the gap. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Trent-Plastics ... 7418QQtZkm

Hi Nate, I know what you mean about the colour but it's a small compromise for a cracking piece of kit. I basically removed the stock stereo and cubby which left a bit of a surround on the centre console. The head unit is classed as double din which means it can be mounted in a double din chassis, but unfortunately the fascia does not fully fill a double din hole!!!! I used one of the surrounds that came with the stereo which is basically a flat piece of black plastic with a rectangular hole in it for the HU fascia. Did you receive it with yours? This is intended to be trimmed as it is alot bigger than a double din hole. It took a bit of playing about with as the HU doesn't sit completely central which you can notice in one of the previous pics of my install (there is a slightly bigger gap at the bottom compared to the top) I think it's about as good as you can get for such an awkward size fascia on the head unit.

The sub is a slim line version which is designed to be installed in pods that line your boot without using up too much space. I mounted it behind the drivers seat as there is already a space for a 10" sub there. I tried a 12" to begin with but it would have been an absolute nightmare to install so the 10" was the easiest option. Sounds ace being powered by the pioneer amp tucked in behind it!!!!!

The sub is a slim line version which is designed to be installed in pods that line your boot without using up too much space. I mounted it behind the drivers seat as there is already a space for a 10" sub there. I tried a 12" to begin with but it would have been an absolute nightmare to install so the 10" was the easiest option. Sounds ace being powered by the pioneer amp tucked in behind it!!!!!

Nate, Have a look at the pics I have attached. I have a 2003 JDM import that had a bog standard single slot CD player. I wanted to upgrade my full kit so I went for the Pioneer FH-P80BT head unit, Pioneer 10" SW1041D subwoofer driven by a Pioneer GM-5300T amplifier. I also used a PESWIPS steering wheel interface so I could still use the steering wheel control. I used the surround which came with it but had to trim it down around the bottom. It looks pretty neat but isn't quite as flush as I'd have liked. I find the head unit ideal as it has a bluetooth handsfree kit, ipod compatibility and I even added a CD changer as I already had one from a previous car. The standard speakers are OK but I upgraded my rear speakers as I had the plastic trim off which I don't intend to take off again! The only gripe I have with the HU is that it is too bright at night time, even with the dimmer function enabled but I'm really chuffed with the sound and the Sub adds a whole new sound to it. Anyway, glad you got it going and good luck with the surround.

Jim, As the other guys have said, the search facility on the forum is pretty good. Cosmetic differences are the square number plate and additional fog light hanging down at the back, as they are not required in japan but are a must for the car to pass the uk SVA test. There is also a restriction in speed due to the conversion from kilometers to miles which works out at max speed of 117MPH. I got mine de restricted which meant installing a small box which re calibrated the speed control unit. It cost £120 a couple of years ago. Just to let you know that I imported a Z through powervehicles.com in edinburgh and all i did was give them a colour, spec and max amount of cash I was prepared to pay. They then sent me pictures and check sheets with the condition of different cars and if I was happy with one, then they would bid for it. If they got it then great, if they didn't then the process just kept going till they got one. I still don't know what they paid for my car, but I know that I am happy with the car they got me for the money I paid. It is a version S which means it has 18" alloys, brembo brakes, jap sat nav but no leather or cruise control. as for servicing, they come with no service history as they usually have less than 10k miles on the clock. Any decent performance car specialist should be able to do it for you though. I service my own as I'm nnot prepared to pay an arm and a leg for a little nissan badge in my service history!!!!! Hope this helps.

anybody seen a Z in Don's colours? Any die hard fans prepared to give it a go?

Cheers for the welcome guys. Always up for a meet as it's good to see what ideas others have done to improve their motors. As for pics Stew, I'm working on it.

Stew, dinnay be confused with the title............first time nerves mate!!!!!

Great forum guys, found it very useful over the past couple of weeks regarding JDM imports. I imported a 2003 Version S in 2004 and have no intention of getting rid of it as it's the most fun car I've ever owned with the looks to match. My version s, like many other JDMs has the useless sat nav and single din standard radio and your forum has given me some inspiration to upgrade. I'm going to be installing the following gear over the next month and will hopefully answer alot of ICE / SAT NAV mods in one thread; Pioneer FH-P80BT Double DIN HU (with bluetooth phone connectivity and Ipod connection) Pioneer 10" 350w Sub powered by a Pioneer GM5300 bridged amp PAC-SWI-PS Steering Wheel Interface I already have wing mounted cameras and a reverse camera hooked into the sat nav screen So I will be keeping the original set up (until and X-trail unit shows up) but there is another interface unit (PAC-VCI-X) which can be connected between the Navi and Display unit and allows video inputs like DVD or TV tuner. The stereo can then pick up the sound on the AUX input. Although a lot of owners have upgraded to a Double DIN all-in-0ne touch screen unit, I'd like to keep all the equipment as standard as possible. I will keep the forum posted when I have completed the project. Cheers Hynder