andlid

what ones are they?

Id come up from dub to this

I was going to get the SSV plenum and cover but for the issues Alex mentioned about the build quality.....

 

You will have no worries if NA but you will have NO HP gains.

 

I had read on my350z that people still had issues with NA applications as well? And apparently it changes the induction noise quite a lot (and it's not an improvement?)?

 

If those with them tell me different then I might be back in the game!

Well with the haltech ecu I hope that this yoke makes some difference... keep you well posted at least ill get more air in there

I have a spare brand new SSV plenum cover available if you don't already have one.

 

It really finishes it off but it won't fit mine due to a few extras getting in the way.

how much delivered to ireland? what stuff is in the way? (might happen me too down the line... )

I still run with the Kinetix SSV Plenum but as most of you will know I had to reweld the seams to try and keep it together, with it being stainless I could not weld myself so it had to go to a local specialist. Abbey have also welded it twice.

 

There is no advantage with NA but as it is made of toilet paper then it is troublesome on FI with high numbers. It was only the seams that gave way as per the picture. The early ones were only fused together but I believe the later ones are welded properly but I have yet to see one.

 

The advantage of the SSV to me is that it leaves plenty room for the coolant header and also loadsa room for the TB which as you will see is now cable, so there is plenty room for the butterfly lever, also access to the plugs is much easier.

 

I also have an idle control valve welded into the underside of the SSV plenum.

 

As you will see from the graphs below the SSV plenum certainly does it job but it does not like high numbers as only the other week I had it off again for more welding.

 

If it lets me down again then I will definately swop it out for the Cosworth plenum which I have sitting here waiting to be fitted, in fact I would have done it already but it would mean another 1000 mile round trip to Abbey for a remap and I would also have to turn the TB 180 degrees so that the linkage is on the rear + the idle control valve would have to welded into the cast/alumium Cosworth plenum. I would also have to find another location for the coolant header.

 

Anyway some pictures for you. These numbers are from the hubs and not the fly.

 

like the setup where I want to be in a year or two ... do you have full specs on the current system you are running? Looks sweet...

the cosworth plenum i heard somewhere you might need some sort of spacer kit if you have aftermarket injectors ... not sure thats true but wonder if you can confirm that?

I just bought one...

new revised version I'd say they sorted out their problems. Heard that they Cosworth had their share of problems too and left a group buy waiting for a long time before they got their plenum.. and to a bit more of a heftier price tag. I've heard that the old one needed to be welded shut in an FI running high PSI application, I'm sure the lifetime warrant will help here ...

Anyway fecki' like the look and more then likely will give a bit more pull... not 30... but maybe 10-12 like the plenum spacer... hopefully will stop any air starvation on the two front cylinders.

Anyway will keep you guys posted on the result... when i get a map done on RON95...

Hey everyone, my windows seem to appear to have stopped dropping when I open the doors. They are trying to go up when the doors shut but obviously don't do much as they haven't dropped in the first place. Both passenger and drivers side are doing the same. Does anyone have any ideas why this may be or how to fix them to go down again?

 

Thanks

 

Grant

Hi grant,

have the same issue on the driver door... reset of windows didnt work (not opening and reset on the actual motor but holding the window button up until you hear it click), never a good time o take of the side panel either...always RAINING over here!

let me know how you get on.

looks good!

would it really be advice able to put spacers on a car thats going to be used on a track?

Interesting point. Where are the obvious weight saves on the 350Z?

Weight reduction table

Item Weight drop Approx. cost (USD)

Ti exhaust 50 lbs $1200

Carbon fiber hatch 45 lbs

Racing seats 15 lbs

Remove hatch weight 1.64 lbs

Remove rear wiper 5 lbs

Lightweight wheels 45 lbs

Remove rear speakers 5 lbs

Remove sub bracket 2.5 lbs

Remove spare and accessories 50 lbs

Lightweight flywheel 20 lbs

Light pulleys 5 lbs

Strut bar 10 lbs

Less gas 90 lbs

Wiper fluid 10 lbs

Battery (odyssey PC680) 20 lbs $150

from: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Weight_Reduction_Guide

funny enough, the most effective weight reduction measure is driving your car with an empty fuel tank

what about the driver...

what size wheels do i need to clear that disc?

Would they fit the JDM model?

Shipping to IRE?

Warranty ?

can you get E85 over there?

Google phone Android G1....

preferably the developer edition

You can install a true LINUX operating system on it! Love mine, never look back! true open source!

at least this will make the buyer hurry up with payment

 

GIT! LOL

SunGodRA wrote:

No auction - already sold to me! LOL

Once you get bored of going +112mph PM me

you mean when he has to many points on his license

at least this will make the buyer hurry up with payment

 

Not trying to be smart here or a party pooper but a plenum spacer / plenum in carbon might be a cool idea but 250£ would get you a kinetix plenum

(http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetixrac ... 03-06.aspx) with a life time warranty. (90$) shipping.

 

 

Just saw they got a 25% deal on the SSV plenum so that's what I'm going with

 

i looked at these as well, but if you speak to adam at Z1 he'll tell you what he thinks, apparently they crack really easily hence they are replacing them free of charge.

 

its plastic and a very rough outer surface. and adam reckons they don't make any gains compared to a spacer.

 

where as this should make the gains as its a spacer built into a plenum. and its CF so shouldn't crack like the plastic

good note, dont know much about them to be honest since im looking at the ssv at the mo.

(sorry for thread trashing)

The kinetix's look anyway. Sorry Nurrish

3rd dibs....

auction?

 

Not trying to be smart here or a party pooper but a plenum spacer / plenum in carbon might be a cool idea but 250£ would get you a kinetix plenum

(http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetixrac ... 03-06.aspx) with a life time warranty. (90$) shipping.

 

 

Just saw they got a 25% deal on the SSV plenum so that's what I'm going with

 

But thats not in carbon fibre

suppose that's true

Not trying to be smart here or a party pooper but a plenum spacer / plenum in carbon might be a cool idea but 250£ would get you a kinetix plenum

(http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetixrac ... 03-06.aspx) with a life time warranty. (90$) shipping.

Just saw they got a 25% deal on the SSV plenum so that's what I'm going with

Agreed that 45PSI sounds far to high...

Great fun for sliding about though

I slide enough with my tiny rear tyres! 235!

Strange though that its all a bit of 'fell' and 'myth' regarding tyre pressure which is SO important!?!

Its a bit of strange one that there isnt a straight enough answer. I found looking around that 10% of maximum pressure seems to be a good starting point and then you can "feel" the way the cars handles etc when you have that and adjust accordingly.

 

Hmm, not sure I'd agree with that. My Falkens say 50PSI max, and when I was at an airfield day, I ran them at 45PSI. These felt far too over inflated and reduced grip massively - which was the intention of doing it on the day so you lose grip earlier and slides are more predictable. I would start at 35PSI and work a bit higher and lower. When you track your bike, I assume you take warm pressure readings too? In which case they are close to the OEM 36/34PSI due to the heat?

they would rise with about 3-4 PSI, to land somewhere around 31/32 front and 30ish rear. (it depends on how heavy I brake on the front side), its terrible how much 'feel' goes into this though. The lads that really know use lots of strange formulas and feel to get it right... the problem I have is that I'm having a hard time finding the right pressure for me...

Agreed that 45PSI sounds far to high...

some states 10% of max pressure is a good starting point. tried finding something on the net on this how to calc the correct pressure depending on tyre-wheel and weight of car. (normal driving)

Since I do a bit of track on the bike I know how important it is with the pressure so normally I should run 36psi front and 34psi rear (according to the book) on track I run 28 front and 26 rear...

Its a bit of strange one that there isnt a straight enough answer. I found looking around that 10% of maximum pressure seems to be a good starting point and then you can "feel" the way the cars handles etc when you have that and adjust accordingly.

Ok keep it here instead

What size thickness is the 5/16 plenum? I'm sure it's similar to mine... (pure plenum)

I could give the quality a go if you wish? (test it on DYNO and run the car pretty hard) for a reduction in cost....

this would be pretty sweet!