andlid

Local garage fitted mine for £50

I so would have handed it in if I'd known! Prob would have costed me double though.

How much is it to hand this into a garage?

I've had so much pain trying to get these rusted bolts of the car... I'll write a 'andlid howto' later, so far cat vs andlid fight is proving a hard one! rounded nuts hours of painfully trying to get the stuff off has resulted in a somewhat strange result (had to cut off the leads for the 02 sensors too...)

More to come....

Yes you will need a LONG bar to reach the top nut, its a pain in the but.

 

How joyous that i have swapped them maybe 6 times in 6 months!

why have you done that!

Will I need a 20" or 12" extension bar to reach those mother bolts on the org cat? Dont have either in my stash yet, looks like I gotta work tomorrow and been to lazy doing other sh*t instead of installing these yet hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll get to do this.

I did however manage to get my new plenum installed yesterday

Could be a clutch assembly issue or clutch slave cyl problem or clutch ball pin failure.

 

I have all in stock if required.

 

Alex.

how can I check any of above>>? typical cost>?

not to bad so, will drop it down to a mech asap.

Could be a clutch assembly issue or clutch slave cyl problem or clutch ball pin failure.

 

I have all in stock if required.

 

Alex.

how can I check any of above>>? typical cost>?

ok, I've not had any luck with finding a Z yet but I think I might just be onto a winner this weekend

 

it's a JDM, 03, blue, rays wheels, 49k miles, mot and tax until october. currently at £9k but I think i can get it down due to come very very minor niggles.

 

1 question I have is regarding servicing. When the car was imported it was put in for a P3 service and inspection (at 25,000km), then the first UK owner owned a garage and did his own service, then the current owner bought it and took it for its last service which also included spark plugs.

 

Now the next service will be up in the next 2 months and so I'm not sure which service it will be due? I've read through the service section and it says the order of service goes 1,2,1,3 (rinse & repeat etc) so what service will it be due and how much should I plan for? Part of the reason for this is to try get the price down even more

 

Any advice welcomed guys - I may just be a fully fledged member this time next week

read the tsb's for the car and check if they've been sorted. best of luck with it! (also if you want to drive faster then 180km/h make sure its de-restricted)

What else has been done to it? bet it's not standard exhaust on it Ask them for the original auction report from Japan, it could tell you alot.

best of luck!

hmm where do I start, tried starting the car today after sitting in a carpark all day (drove only about 10miles this morning from home) car started up fine and revved a bit higher then normal around 2k, then it just died. Tried to start it again and it just kept cranking over without starting. (panic) Stopped cranking since I didnt want to flat out the battery, pressed the accelerator to the floor and started cranking again, almost stopped it when it finally revved up and started... scary... stuck in 1st gear... felt a bit hard to get in... drove off and the car juddered, kind like it hand problems engaging/disengaging the clutch? drove off and sat in traffic for a little while and from N to 1st I now couldnt for the life of me get 1st gear in, had to brute force it in to get going when it went green. Started then to 'fell' the gear changes and now feels a bit hard to get gears in, no sound from sync or gearbox noise.

What could be wrong? Think the start issue is dirty plenum and throttle body so that will hopefully be fixed when I get time to change the plenum

The judder/gearing issue : old clutch oil? Don't think that's ever been changed, nothing in the service book regarding changing anything like that in JPY.

CAR: 2003 JDM import 66k/km on it.

Any input/ideas?

think I need to clean mine out again pain in the hole, can take some snaps and do a write-up of anyone wants it?

i didnt take any pictures of fitting them, i was so busy swearing at all the locked on awkward nuts!

get those bolts out!

#

Step 1

Heat the connection with a propane torch if you can do so without any risk of damage or fire. It helps draw penetrating oil into the threads (see step 2).

#

Step 2

Apply a liberal amount of penetrating oil in and around the joint, then wait ... and wait ... and wait. It can take anywhere from 10 minutes to several hours to loosen the joint.

#

Step 3

Strike the head of the bolt or nut with a cold chisel to shock the connection.

#

Step 4

Apply an open-ended wrench or socket of the proper size, and rap its handle sharply with a rubber or wood mallet.

Collected mine and have fitted them...

 

Sound is great, im actually thinking it might be louder than with my decats on! A bit raspy again, but not as much as it was.

Happy with the product, cheers guys.

pics of install? cant wait to fit mine, so much work that I dont get any spare time to do it in though

id be interested in a base map without any fancy adjustments and no dyno on mine... just to see if it takes off the speed limiter!

 

 

Import I presume? can you get me the ecu number , we are working on the de limiter on the JDM car,s at the moment , I have a JDM car that we are trying to sort out the limiter.

 

Will keep you in the know as to speak

 

 

now who want,s a cheap deal on a remap then , Early UK car with exhaust system, mainfold spacer and air filter kit?

 

Mark

yup JDM it is, is there a better way to get the ecu number then having to look at the actual ecu? I'll PM you the nr.

id be interested in a base map without any fancy adjustments and no dyno on mine... just to see if it takes off the speed limiter!

Have you got pre haltech numbers Andlid? Any idea on what they did for the tune, what areas they concentrated on?

 

If you do get 330bhp you will have one of the highest HP non race 350Z's around (worldwide....)

fuel map and ignition map and think they messed around with the cam's...

Having a problem with connecting to internet on my laptop. I have a BT home hub and its all fine - i can use the PC (as i am doing now) with no probs. The laptop (vista) is usually just connected automatically as soon as i switch it on. Never had a problem with the wireless connection and can get right down the garden with it etc. Now I just have no connection and my network is not listed in the options of what i can connect with.

 

I have chatted with Stew about this on MSN and his switch it on and off advice didn't get me very far......

 

Any ideas?

vista is

mine does it now and again, i just reboot the router and off it goes. how old is the router and what make?

330 on the fly mate, surely thats not highest worldwide???

not running e85, running e5 at the moment.

pre haltech I think was 265, dont think I got a soft copy of it but do think that I posted it here at some stage, will take wander.

excellent,

Going to do a retune some day, after i get the new ssv fitted and the race cats... hoping for 330 or 320 on RON95

Andlid, how did you get 302 BHP at the fly before fitting the Haltec?

 

Lots of the guys with VQ35DE will want to know.

keep it to the comment thread

sorry should have said, the 'before' is when it was just switched in, the after is after the actual tune

nice, best of luck with her... bet she's was at a pretty good price too!

Model: 2003 VQ35DE (JDM)

Mods: Apexi filter,Pure Plenum Spacer, ZEES Exhaust, Haltech Platinum ECU

Dyno: dyno dynamics / couture auto Ireland

BHP: WHP: 267.11 / FHP: 323.4

Torque: 304.59 lb/ft

(E5 Petrol)

Well I prefer it off myself Im pretty confident in a car and usually know what to do when it steps out of line (usually inflicted by myself and held as long as pos) but for anyone who doesnt know, if the brake light switch is activated (the middle pedal pushed down slightly) all the electronic systems are activated again, kind of a failsafe, try it in a wet carpark, get the car into a drift then touch the brake pedal n see what happens

 

Personally id be keep the vx till the winter then change, get yourself on a drive training day somewhere, you will lean loads and really get to grips with your car more, Ive had a mk1 elise & mk2 elise so I can feel for you a bit in the wet, a bit scary sometimes

Didnt know about the failsafe stuff! As a rally trainer told me last weekend... NEVER TOUCH THE BRAKE while in a slide!

 

 

 

I never would, andrew walsh (LOT) told me about it. Clever stuff but shouldnt be used as it will get you into bad habbits. Jump into another car and ................smash

Well I prefer it off myself Im pretty confident in a car and usually know what to do when it steps out of line (usually inflicted by myself and held as long as pos) but for anyone who doesnt know, if the brake light switch is activated (the middle pedal pushed down slightly) all the electronic systems are activated again, kind of a failsafe, try it in a wet carpark, get the car into a drift then touch the brake pedal n see what happens

 

Personally id be keep the vx till the winter then change, get yourself on a drive training day somewhere, you will lean loads and really get to grips with your car more, Ive had a mk1 elise & mk2 elise so I can feel for you a bit in the wet, a bit scary sometimes

Didnt know about the failsafe stuff! As a rally trainer told me last weekend... NEVER TOUCH THE BRAKE while in a slide!

good stuff, can we put in if we used octane booster, petrol type etc?

i think its crap almost dangerous, kills of the power and makes the car unstable. Keep it off and learn how to drive the car and know where you have it

(start off where you dont have any objects in the way)

I was surprised how quick it bites you the 1st time I took her out for a wee play