andlid

Yes there is, unless you've managed to completely destroy the laws of physics. If so, top job! you need to drive mine before you can say that you can actually NOTICE the lag, sure it's "lag" but it's not noticeable at all in my setup. (or any other APS TT setup for that matter... since the APS's are small tiny things )

There it is

BP kit = DIY fitting, well worth it if you're handy with a spanner (will stop recommending that now though:)) TURBO LAG! ROFL they're NO lag in my Z, very progressive... it just kicks a bit earlier then a SC! I drove a Z SC and it's very different from my TT (allthough I've got 100hp's more in mine now...). I wouldn't look at SC (sorry guys running one). Only downside I can see is the extra heat the two twins produce compared to a SC. SC seem to be a bit more maintenance on changing belts now and then but probably better in the long run for cost. Will see how long the turbos lasts in mine before judging that, however when they go I just stick bigger turbos in there

Try before you buy, it's always a good thing. If you cna sit in a charger or tt car and see what it's like you'll deffo go TT

Agreed its the cheapest but nutters like you are never happy with 400bhp No...

not sure what an HR car cost in comparison to a DE but probably more, also not sure what the GTM supercharger kit + fitting cost either. Think a non-built DE engine with either TT or SC is probably the cheapest option to go for, and it'll give you 400ponies to play with, probably enough (I would not know...)

I wouldnt as if your talking about running stock internals then you wont get to enjoy all the boost from a TT setup. Go for a DE engine and forge the internals and use the TT setup to its full potential. Wizard, can you post pictures of your car please mate. Heard you talking alot about it but never seen any pics. Would love to see it you think he's trolling?

Didnt find them hard to fit rear...

No he has them on your old engine I just bought the long block This one can't be as mad as mine if it's a DD! Dose't mean we can't have some fun though right thought he'd sold them off. Stick a boosted kit on, DO it! do it!

As stated above, depends on the design of the wheels. As well as the fact that an 8J ET0 is 5 inches narrower than a 13J ET0. The "poke" from the mounting face is what you are interested in, not the offset as that is relative to wheel width. Lexx has done a damn good job on this thread, but the underlying point is that if you are going for the very best/closest fitment of wheels there is no way to know 100% if something will fit without trying it. Different spoke designs, backspacing, tyre choice, tyre size, camber, ride height and suspension specs all affect wheel fitment and thats before you start getting onto arch modifications. One thing I will say is that £150/200 odd will get someone who knows what he is doing to come and roll your arches for you so if you do buy something and it rubs a little its easy to sort out. If you are serious about getting wheels that fit as nicely as possible, for me its a given to get the arches rolled anyway. What does the J stand for in the rim width? tried a google but didnt find anything use full really. What I was asking is a question to someone that's actually tried to fit the widest rim possible *thus fitting the widest rubber on it... and what they used. I've been looking at a set of wheels, their site is pretty good and it shows that if you got non brembo Z you can run ET22 instead of forcing it to ET12 when having brembo's on, thus makes me believe that when you look for these things then try and keep the Inner clearance pretty much the same for fronts (seems you go further in with rear due to caliper size I'm guessing). So to answer my own question if you don't want to role the archers the perfect rim width with ofset for a "Rota" type wheel is 18x10.5ET22 rear and 9.5ET12 front. ... which you'd be able to stick a 295mm tyre on?

So what is the widest, flushest, with 0 offset that I can get (clearing the calipers?)

did carlswift sell the ITB's with that other engine?

tempting,,,

FI all the way, make sure though that you plan properly... AND pick a GOOD place to deal with, I got stung on the latter. I'd do it again but differently for sure, love the newly found power! When I do it again (with another car) I'm going to run it like any project I do in my daily job. Budget should not be applied, open wallet and go for it. Do it right and you won't have to do it at a later stage. OR do it in phases so you get some driving in

Managed to get a decent laptop to do some vids, so here we go! ^That's my first ever blackflag (and the reason for it!) This is just some lap in the Z on the latest outing... (keeps me sane until the next one...) Also ordered a new micro PSU, looks cool! (more to come in hopefully two days...)

it's worth a shot I think! If I sold one I'd want to know unless I tried to hide the fact it was leaking. Is there no law against selling goods not fit for purpose??

You shouldn't knock project management buster, really important

talk to the seller... now...

smoking in the car!

Right so mini pc update today. Almost 100% sure the micro PSU is a dud, so will order a new one from the UK this evening Took the PC back out and hooked it up to battery power and it's going green on the mobo but power ain't coming on. So... Took out the centre console (followed this guide) http://www.oemcargps.com/blog/how-to-di ... issan-350z (might do the aux hack if I feel up for it, since the console is now out) Took the cubby casing off by taking off the 3 bolts on each side (pic below) Ended up with below... I re-used the metal bit (will come in handy later on...) I started test fitting the lilliput screen without taking it off, no chance so face down on a something clean. Took off all the screws I could find (8) See pic below of all the screws out: Took a flatbed screw driver, stuck it in one of the slits holding the screen together and twisted, did the all around the casing until eventually the back came off. Took the screws holding the LCD onto the front plate off, should be two screws on each of the plates holding it down (for some reason only had 1 on one of the side, must have run out in the factory? ) LCD comes off and you'll end up with something like this...(unscrew the buttons from it's front too, six odd screws holding that) Now... I test fitted the setup to see what it would look like and fits VERY nicely, took some doublesided sticky tape to line it up nicely on the console. I used a pen knife and stuck the one side on and carefully cut off the tape at the corners like below. ended up like this... mounted The backplate of the lilliput (mobo) has some bags (couching's) that I thought was a good way of mounting them backonto the backplate of the lilliput, so I took some doublesided tape again and stuck them on like so! once you get cover tape off you can nicely tuck the tape around the bags. When that sorted I went back to the little cubby that came out of the console and attacked it with my pen knife, I'm after the black little plastic pieces on the sides (to re-use the screws and mount the screen permanently to the console. ) Try and save the little bits sticking out of the plastic pieces, this will be the force holding the backplate flush. Like below fitted: Now it's flush against the front and it wont move! Hooked up a laptop to it and tried out the screen, looks pretty cool don't you think? And this is what will be there once in the car! (with some adaption) for you guys unlucky not to own one, that is the gui for the haltech unit that will be hooked up to the mini pc The touch screen I couldn't really test (there is an issue with lilliput and 64bit Windows 7, will try some drivers on a 32bit at a later stage, might even go Windows XP). Did think that Windows 7 would be up for the job seeing that they've adapted it for Tablets, not so They're a few threads around with Windows 7 issues so will read them through and see what to make of it, not to pushed in wasting to much time on it though Windows XP will be good enough for what I want to use it for. That's all that I managed to get done today! The buttons I'm not sure what to do with, think I'll mount them behind the front cover (that you have to take off to get the console out of the car, drill a little hole for the infrared sensor and use the remote in the car, shouldn't have to use that to often though..., might on the other hand go down the route of cutting the little facia out and cut off the lilliput buttons of the front of the monitor and mount that... mmm need to sleep on it, might look cack) Will keep the power and vga connectors as is and not go hacking, soldering on the lilliput mobo I think, will butcher the cigarette lighter power that came with the lilliput instead, and use extension leads if needed to the usb and vga cable. Laters,

N/A 350Z doesn't sit right to me... What about, 350Z BK inside? (boosted kit inside) you know you want to be the only one across the water with a single blower that'll rock! AND you don't have to take the engine out! (then again you need to get it out anyway) Maybe fit that pathfinder mod to the engine before it goes in at least (and a set of headers) and ... and ... and... Great little workshop going... Meanwhile in my bad cave I'm melting PSU's

He has 4...

Wash your mouth out right now Steve Just search for 'spursmaddave' + 'knob' Hahahha