andlid

Its on tonight...

they would be, why not remap it for 95 while you're at it?

Really?. Pretty sure Mark posted up a plot recently where he said it was running really lean. OK so maybe dangerous was an overstatement, but I've seen it mentioned a fair few times that if you have intake/plenum spacer/decats/y-pipe/exhaust all done then it should be remapped as it could be running lean. The problem is its all down to the actual mods in question, some cause more lean running than others. It doesnt have to be running so lean the engine goes pop to be doing damage, some damage may not be spotted for a very long time thought the uk ecu clears and adapts any breathing mods = shouldn't run lean?

2-3 hours!! You're not supposed to tighten the bolts by hand It's a 30-45 min job. The time consuming part is to torque the bolts in the required sequence. Actually fitting the spacer takes minutes. You don't need to detach the hoses, remove bolts and lift upper plenum, slide in, align and refit upper plenum with bolts. viewtopic.php?f=25&t=30135&start Dont rush it though, see above...

do it when you've finished all the mods unless it'll be a long time before you're finished. (you could get the plenum at the dyno place possibly and let them install it)

sent the seller a message...

Was thinking to do that myself with mates. But not using a cloud service at all, and use truecrypt to encrypt data on source by sender. Not that hard to get going really.

Livedrive is good, probably similar thing.

I'm not female ( I think...) but hello anyway Hope you get a sweet one!

Saturday update! Weather: NO RAIN! I installed the new lower rad hose and this time I didn't actually modify it for the wider rad, rather let it push out a bit more at the top and used some zip ties to make sure it doesn't hit that pulley again . I took a video of the process with the spill free funnel but it'll have to wait until I get my other lappy to edit it (pretty boring most of the time). It worked a bit strangely I have to say... very WILD for the first run, it sucked in a LOT of water after I turned the car off and it was almost like boiling eggs for a while. After I let her cool down and re-ran the setup it slowly released bubbles... I've NEVER had so hot air from my fan, burning my hands now Can really recommend getting on of them things! So onto mounting pc and centre console Stumbled across a few cables... 4 metres of cables for the Japanese tool control box , great I'll use these not sure why you would have a loop and two fuses on one live... one of them blown so cut that off and did some soldering Now had a ignition and ground to use I decided to use this for the lilliput screen (don't care to have it one without turning the ignition really), I also decided to use this as a ground for the mini pc and the ignition for that one too. (not sure if that's proving to be one of my problems, not sure ) I love soldering my cables together, it's no better way in my mind Here is the centre console in! I tried the tape hack first time I installed the console and it worked fine, but after I wanted to take it out to check the audio connections (realised I don't have much umpf from the rear speakers) after I re-installed it it now says "tape error" I'm sure they're an easy way to fix that, need to read husky's thread again Now, as you can see the lower piece isn't installed in that pic, I had a quick look at it and decided to cut the back of it with a knife to mount the circuit board and drill a hole with the dremel to have the infra red button out so I can use the remote (if needed, this baby will auto power one with the ignition later on) Here is the cover upside down, get your knife out! It's a very cool material to cut, like butter! took all of two minutes to do that, used the circuit board as template and then cut it out all the way down and twisted off. Now I dremel'd a hole for the infrared sensor I just marked a cross and let rip! Now this is it mounted! You can't even see I drilled a hole! (and it works!) took a photo from the top so you can see the photo Now I didn't take any photos of the actual mini-pc install (SINCE ITS NOT WORKING ) I wired it in as supposed to, one ground, one ignition and one to live (battery). First time I started it it worked fine was delighted! Turned off the car and ignition to off and went in, came out 2 min later and it was turned off (per design!). Tried to start it again and it was a NO NO getting onto the shop now to see what they think, wondering if the board is a bit dodgy at this stage. So instead of me taking the whole thing apart I decided to leave it off power for a while and see if it would boot at a later stage (turned out that it didn't matter...) I fitted this heel toe here we come Next might not be to everyones taste (not really me...) Went wild with a drill (didn't have time to measure, was running out of time... and it kinda shows) Now that's what it'll look like on a trackday, and below when driving normally, I'm going to get a bit smaller plate so it doesn't look to naff (not straight either I notice now...) Now onto something calmer and more relaxing (I replaced the brake fluid in my R6 between jobs too, need to get her ready for next Sunday's bike tracking! )

great shooting Did they do sound testing on ALL cars before entering track first time??? Looks like a nice track (what I could see of it)

Clean the window motor while your at it

just did this, great writeup dude. one Q what can I use the DIN sub connector for? Wondering if I can have that to stick into my miniputer.

like your style, always wondered if people use technology like that in the tuning business, remote dyno So even simpler that you got it all in the background ready to go and past experience.

Just thought I post some silly photos of the package the micro psu came in the other day. What the heck! Got this today, very interested read! Will probably bin the car next Friday now! Next update on this will be saturday when all the techie bits will go into the car and rad pipe fitted

You could actually have someone else remote into a pc or laptop and do that work for you, only thing you'd need is to plug in a cable, logon to a webpage and approve the remote session. Pretty simple

Does he drink guiness and mind commuting on a R6?

Torq dude, torq... the springs and turbo boost controller isnt able to hold the boost. Have uprated ones to go in

I'll stick some vids up of it all once completed, think it's going to be a quick dump in the car and a slow progress to finish off all the bits. Most important is to get monitoring of the sensors in the haltech, rest is really just bonuses. (gps, cameras, vids, music etc)

And no fi!

Had strange issues with the lilliput screen (mouse pointer all over the place and drawing windows etc) after me thinking it might have been the doublesided tape I took it all apart and cleaned off all the stuff, in the meantime I tried some drivers for Windows 7 (even though this OS should be compatible with touch screens...) Found a set of drivers that worked a treat! eGalaxTouch_7_Vista_XP_2K_5.11.0.9126 ^ They should be tried first with any touch screen problems! So put that all back together, got my new Micro PSU from mini itx, it was doulbe the width of the chinese one so looked great so far! Just been out and booted the PC up from the car battery so win win Cut the cigarette lighter psu for the lilliput too so it's all good to go. While I had the stereo out I also did the Ipad/Phono hack for the tapedeck following an extremely good guide put together by Husky! (thanks bro!) So only small bit left is to wire it all in the car and boot it up

Hold on Anders I will just pm you our email log in details so you can see the dialogue with GTSPEC and take over the running of this GB now now...down with that sort of thing. I was just hoping in a glimpse of hope that I'll change my mind and order a kit

They should have enough stock for early April. ~^ so their is no real rush in ordering this yet is there?

Yeah read up a bit about the antilag system... wouldn't go down that route! In an evo it might be more noticeable with the smaller size engine and higher boost applications.