andlid

Did you comp test that engine? So naught wrong with it?

dogs, electric fence, paintball gun... that's horrible to have to endure something like that. do they hit the place about the same times? Get some sticky paint up on the wall, doesn't wash off! More lights lightning up and HD cameras and more of them.

Eh ya oil cooler deffo needed on fi! Going to youtube the track, musnt be twisty if the lotuses didnt leave you for dead! (Lol) so what do you think about tracking the z?what oil temp did you see On track?

Cool you dont know what the calipers came up to? When you say fresh fluid did you flush all the calipers? Do you have a vid of you driving? GREAT news, that your happy with the setup.

Good job. Should you not get things up to temp before comp test? Which obe is getting a comp test btw?

OH NO!

boom as someone said

Is it done yet?

haha corrie... lol Great news on 6pot running Better then the news I got! Airleak will be easily sorted (hopefully) Surprised you didnt notice it though the way you and buster smokes

Some trackday vids from the Friday just gone: (nice bmw m3 at the end of the second vid) Back straight saw 200km/h at times , Debtors as they call it after start and finish can be done doing 160km/h pretty easily, need to keep a bit of ice in the gut though... (and not let go off the accelerator once you committed!) <<< that was close

Glass? Lol at fitting the new engine! Can you take mine out while at it?

was up in Kirki on Friday, normally in Mondello/Ireland. Might try and get accross the water and see why these tracks are easier on the brakes

if not you'll just be guessing and second guessing what you should do to increase performance and put money and time in the wrong area... I'd like to know if I cut holes in my lining if it actually made any difference, if I install titanium shims does it hinder heat travelling to my calipers, if I get a different type pad does it help heat buildup, if I install brake ducts does it do any difference... otherwise you just work on the 'feel' and think that something made a difference when it really didn't. I see your point, but can you tell the difference between discs at 600c and discs at 700c? I can't, but I can tell the difference between fluid that's boiling and fluid that is fine, which is why feel is more important on brakes than raw data. Like at said, when you're racing then there is a good reason to use temps to gauge how the brakes are reacting over long and short distances, but for the average road or track day driver it's irrelevant data. When I buy brakes I look at the numbers but also ask for experience in terms of feel, and if the setup turns out to be fine then it doesn't matter what temps they get to. Ok lets say my discs are 500C and calipers get up to 200C so in theory that means my fluid more then likely cooked (due to the fact that it's probably likely to be at the wet boiling point). If I swap my discs for say DBA's 5000 and they actually help bringing down my temp on the disc to say 400, and the caliper only up to 150. Then I've saved my fade and cooking in one go. If I on the other hand notice that the replacing discs didn't make ANY difference on the temperatures I know that the problem is elsewhere and spend time to fix that. (and get cheaper discs instead). I know it's a bit rough but that's the idea I'm working around. So to me (even only doing trackdays) it's important to know WHY and address accordingly.

£21.85 GBP is what I paid for that exact one so guessing someone took the mick... Nah mines is an expensive mate and accurate to .002 of a degree or something crazy. It's for work stuff. mine doesn't need to be that accurate

if not you'll just be guessing and second guessing what you should do to increase performance and put money and time in the wrong area... I'd like to know if I cut holes in my lining if it actually made any difference, if I install titanium shims does it hinder heat travelling to my calipers, if I get a different type pad does it help heat buildup, if I install brake ducts does it do any difference... otherwise you just work on the 'feel' and think that something made a difference when it really didn't. The thing is, unless your actually racing to a level where tenths of seconds matter, or your actually experiencing braking problems, I can't see that it matters. Surely if it feels good, it's good enough. suppose if you're the type that just lashes out monies on things in the wrong area that's a fine viewpoint. You'll hit it in the end Possibly only me then in the Z community that has an interest in this. I'll keep doing it though and maybe someone will find any use of the findings.

£21.85 GBP is what I paid for that exact one so guessing someone took the mick...

if not you'll just be guessing and second guessing what you should do to increase performance and put money and time in the wrong area... I'd like to know if I cut holes in my lining if it actually made any difference, if I install titanium shims does it hinder heat travelling to my calipers, if I get a different type pad does it help heat buildup, if I install brake ducts does it do any difference... otherwise you just work on the 'feel' and think that something made a difference when it really didn't.

I'm amazed that people don't check it...

Dont have a problem knowing what the best way forward is on the tyre front I know I need new ones

DS2500 track or street? Don't think they'd been any good for me on Friday Carbotech™ XP8™ A high torque brake compound with a wide operating temperature range of 200°F-1350°F+ (93°C to 732°C+). Carbotech™ XP8™ is the first of our racing compounds. Good initial bite at race temperatures, high coefficient of friction, excellent modulation and release characteristics. Extremely high fade resistance and very rotor friendly. Excellent as a front brake pad for lighter applications weighing around 2,400lbs or less. Perfect for track day use with any tire and can still be driven safely to and from the track. Carbotech™ does NOT recommended XP8™ as a daily driven street pad due to elevated levels of dust and noise. Carbotech™ XP8™ is a great compound on the front & rear of most open wheel and sports racers

sounds good Can you guys not go out and get one of these? (called pyromoter and can be got for as low as 20£ from amazon.co.uk) And let me know what you get on track sessions The DBA's will show it's maximum temp it hit I think so that might be good enough, but won't show how much heat you actually got into the caliper. (and the fluid) Measuring will be a bit of a hit and miss but would be good to see some sort of figure on it rather the guessing and come down to feel etc. (I'm taking both of you guys run braided lines too?) I wouldn't run standard pads rear, I do think I need something that needs less clamp force to produce good results. I've read up on the DBA's 5000 and in theory I do really like what they've incorporated in them. First stop is new rubber If you want to go that bit extra you can actually check if you need to replace fluid (unless you do that after a hard session where fade has been experienced, makes a big difference on the boiling point if they're is low water % in there)