andlid

Drop the uni chip get haltech or possibly retune with uprev got another 40 ponies at least and buckets more torque out of that setup! Skip the pic get a video up

What is your build spec?

What is your build spec?

http://my350z.com/forum/forced-inductio ... ltech.html ^ some reading for you

What version of Haltech software are you running? http://www.haltech.com/index.php/ecu-ma ... 9-released Version 10>>> Added the following advanced functions: speed limiter Added Idle control generic duty offset tables Not sure it covers the pro harness, I can always download it and test it for you.. Is your decel rpm tuned or left blank? Mine is left blank which I don't think 'helps' Decel RPM Rate - This value determines for the idle controller if the RPM is falling or steady when off the throttle. When the RPM is steady at the Start Position then it is ready to be controlled. If this value is set too low then the small fluctuations of RPM at a steady RPM will make the controller think that the RPM is not yet stable, and the controller will not operate or may be very slow to operate. You might see the idle duty or position 'hang' at the Start Postition for an excessively long time. If this is set too high then the RPM could be considered steady when it is still falling. This might result in the controller starting too early which will cause the duty cycle to fall drastically to try and slow the engine speed when the engine is already decelerating at the fastest rate that is mechannically possible. This may cause a dip in RPM before settling on the Target RPM. ^ which in turn can stall the engine, try the AC stuck on (that'll increase the low idle) Are the lower tables C?'d (copied through to the OEM ECU), not sure that's advisable with aftermarket (bigger injectors then 440cc)

Happens to mine to sometimes, think its in the tune. If you rev match on downshift it doesn't.I sure it can be adjusted but your map is locked?

bet it gives you a smile on your face, now that's priceless

it doesn't spend much time in 1st! Should probably update my build thread a bit but haven't been to pushed New gearbox planned to go in soon if the garage that I sent it to get back to me with a date when they can fit me in, last trackday of the season will probably be 13th October then it's blanket on the car until early 2013! Have some plans for her, will see if I can commit some €

Andlid. Your alive! You been on safari or what!! yup called father of 2! (who the hell are you?)

Try keeping the AC on and see if she stalls. Is that not 'just' a map issue?

Looks mean dude, well done and with engine to suit!!

sweet I'm still higher Any vids yet?

Got a price 220$ each if 3 packages are bought,70$ flat rate shipping. Anyone interested?

A bit more then advertised I guess

bump? Need to get one

She tuned yet mate?

CD009 box arriving in Ireland Monday !

Sweet might pm you some more Q's!

Cheers dude will a newer box fit straight on? Saw an 07 box there that looked OK.

Cheers dude will a newer box fit straight on? Saw an 07 box there that looked OK.

Going to see what a rebuild will cost, and confirm it'll be a stronger box afterwards. Not buying same syncro again since they'll probably fail after two track days. I'd love to splash out 9k on a full box but don't think so! Maybe next year if my plans come together 950£ is that a fair price buying something 3rd hand?

Hmmm food for thought there. Quaife has just released a new box that can handle the power :0

hmmm 'loose bearing' I do hear a noise but thought that was normal with lighter flywheel and uprated clutch. ?! Its the clutch fluid I'm talking about, new nissan fluid in her that hasn't traveled many miles either. I do feel the gearbox heating up (almost burning leg) on track.

After my last outing on track I had gearbox issues (3rd one crunching) left her in 4th most of the times (plenty of torque and power but not much fun). I had issues with syncro (I think) 1st,2nd,3rd driving it in town once so I swapped the clutch fluid (pedal was feeling a bit strange and squeaky). The fluid needed replacing!! So after that I took her for a spin around the block, 1st and 2nd worked fine! (I did an adjustment of the pedal too to make sure it's fully engaging before changing gears). I never tried 3rd since I thought I was sorted. Driving down to Mondello I tried 3rd... crunch... it goes in if you force it (did 2nd time) but it's obviously not going to make the life of the box and better. I'm going to have a look and see if the plate (guide plate?) isn't on properly and see if that makes any difference, I think it's a long shot and I'm looking at two options: 1, New gearbox (second hand on fleebay or the like) 2, Hand the auto in somewhere in Ireland, get the old box out and renovate (strengthen it at the same time) 3, leave it until I leave the gearbox on track? (not very nice for other motors on that particular day...) What do you think? I know there is a revised version of the 350Z gearbox that's got stronger syncros.

No clue mate